Tucked away on the second floor of the Wyndham Chicago, Caliterra has had to push since its opening in the spring of '99 to get the notice that is afforded its street-level counterparts. But, I think that in some ways Caliterra's hidden location suits its serious minded California and Italian inspired food.
When you enter the Wyndham Chicago, climb the oversized curved staircase to the main lobby level, and then follow long hallway to its end, where a hostess will greet you. Visitors can also drop by the comfortable lounge, which offers a bank of windows, a couple of television monitors, and ample seating.
Visiting Caliterra isn't about showing off your latest wardrobe in front of a highly trafficked picture window, but, instead, about a relaxing evening sampling new executive chef Rick Gresh's offerings, while admiring the cityscape from a bank of windows on two sides of the room. At only 27, Gresh is already a veteran, with stints at Evanston's Trio, Hotel Nikko, and, most recently, four years at Green Dolphin Street, helping to put that high-end eatery on the local map.
Now, the large open kitchen, which still occupies a large corner of the main dining room and blends into the nice lounge at one end, still offers a blend of Northern California and Tuscan cuisines, as well as monthly specials. For example, in March Caliterra featured Risotto, and this month features lamb. Next month, Caliterra celebrates spring with a menu featuring, fresh, foraged ingredients, many of them from right here in Chicago.
Look for menu items that include seasonal ingredients like tender fiddlehead ferns and morel mushrooms. Start with a Sorrel Salad or Spring Chicken Broth, with onion wontons and fiddlehead ferns. Entrees include a Potato Wrapped Steelhead Trout, with Wilted Stinging Nettles and a Morel Jus.
Recently, starters included a Soup Trio of Apple, Walnut and Lobster, a peppery Arugula Salad with Truffle Smoked Tomatoes ($8.00), and an unusual Sprout Salad over Sunchoke ($9.00). This light and fresh beginning to the meal features crispy sprouts mounded atop a savory puree of sunchoke. Similar to an artichoke, a sunchoke is a root vegetable, and makes for a healthy, spring-like start.
Entrees include five or six pastas, which come is two sizes. The small sizes would make a nice appetizer, while the larger sizes are a good option for main courses. The least expensive items are found in this section, with a simple Angel Hair and Chopped Tomatoes coming in at only $13 for the full size, and $9 for the smaller. The Goat Cheese Ravioli in a Pepper Broth ($19 for full size) is surprisingly light. The three ravioli are filled with a creamy cheese, nicely complemented by the broth, which features a citrus accent. This is the area of the menu where vegetarians can find satisfaction.
Heartier fare can be found with a large selection of meat entrees, as well as a couple of fish items. Diners can choose from Trout, Pork Filet, Rib Eye, Spiced Lamb Chops with Dried Fruit, and a Chicken Breast. On a recent visit, the Venison ($30) proved a solid choice. Served sliced, atop a bed of barley, the generous portion of medium rare meat was flavored with a splash of wine, and topped with a dollop of chopped vegetables. The tender meat is from an organic farm in upstate New York, and was rightly praised by our waiter.
The desserts, ($8) include Créme Brulee, a trio of Fruit Sorbets, a popular Flourless Chocolate Cake, with a liquid chocolate center, and a special Risotto Pineapple Upside Down Cake. Our trio of Ice Creams, included Vanilla, Strawberry, and an almost mousse-like Chocolate, accompanied by unsweetened fresh whipped cream. A large, warm Espresso Chocolate Cookie is served with the ice cream, and was a big hit. The warm Apple Crostada also comes with Vanilla Ice Cream, and features a not too sweet apple topping on top of a somewhat too thick crust.
The friendly, surprisingly relaxed and casual, yet professional servers seem very comfortable describing Gresh's new offerings, as well as being able to assist diners who want some help choosing from a thorough wine selection.
Diners included large family groups celebrating a special occasion and couples enjoying a romantic evening. If you insist on sitting next to the windows, it's a good idea to request a table there when making your reservation.
Caliterra is located on the second floor of the Wyndham Chicago, 633 North Saint Clair, 312-274-4444. Being a hotel restaurant, Caliterra opens at 6:30 a.m. for breakfast every day of the week. Lunch is served every day from 11 until 5. Caliterra is open until 10 Sunday through Thursday, and until 11 Friday and Saturday.
