There are countless places to get a good slice of pizza in Chicago. But there are very few that will transport you instantly back to the 1940sa simpler time when pizza always included gluten and before figs were considered a legitimate topping. Welcome to Marie's Pizza and Liquors, a true gem on the Northwest side.
Marie's is perfectly preserved in the past with paneling on the walls, red leather booths and banquet chairs, dark carpeting and low ceilings. Grandmotherly waitresseseither sweet or grumpy, depending on your luckwho have probably been working at the restaurant since they (and it) were in their heyday add to the authenticity. A huge smoke eater mounted on the ceiling above the bar serves as a conspicuous reminder that smoking used to be glamorous, not deadly. At first glance, Marie's appears almost a bit dingy, until you realized that you've stepped into a truly amazing relic.
One of many things to love about Marie's is the manner in which you procure your beer or wine. Not only is the place BYOB, but it's actually attached to a full-service liquor store. Score! That means no mad dashes across the street when you decide to stay for a second bottle of red (and you probably will). As adorably dated as the main restaurant is, the liquor store is stocked with a surprising variety of good quality wines, and the knowledgeable staff is happy to help you choose a bottle.
You won't find many surprises on Marie's menuand that's a comfort rather than a disappointment. To tide you over while your pizza bakes, try a few of the Northwest Side starters, a smorgasbord of deep-fried deliciousness. Look for all of the usual suspects like onion rings, fried zucchini and mushrooms, chicken wings and cheese sticks. While none of the appetizers are going to change the way you look at food, there's not a bad one in the bunch. That said, I particularly enjoyed the fried zucchini, if only because it masqueraded as an actual vegetable that might lend a nutrient or two to my otherwise purely indulgent meal.
There are a few pastas, sandwiches and other entrees on Marie's menu, including one of my favorite throwbacksorange roughy. I bet you it's been a while since you've seen that on a menu (ever since Chilean sea bass took over). But when a restaurant is famous for its pizza and even includes "pizza" in its name, well, then, you should order the pizza.
You won't have to deliberate over which obscure topping combinations to put on your pie (Brussels sprouts and blue cheese, anyone?). At Marie's, you can sit back with a beer and order a pizza with normal stuff like sausage and pepperoni. The crust is thin and crispy and a fine vehicle for whatever cheese-meat-veggie concoction you love most. There is also a double crust option. I tried the regular and the double crust, and frankly, couldn't detect all that much of a difference. But, both were hot, flavorful, just greasy enough and cut into squares like in the good old days. My group of five ordered two medium pizzas and a few appetizers, and we left very full with a few pieces of pizza in to-go boxes.
Marie's unwittingly kitschy atmosphere and reliably tasty pizza would probably be enough to bring me back to the place from time to time. But, what really sealed the deal for me is the live music. On Saturdays, the Gino Fontine Strolling Trio serenades diners with Frank Sinatra songs and other music from that bygone era. This adorable Hawaiian shirt- or tuxedo-clad trio accepts requests and, based on my experience, $20 will buy you a full night of live tableside tunes.
I eat at a lot of exquisite Chicago restaurants, but the reality is that many of them are so similar that they sometimes start to blend together in my memory. Marie's Pizza and Liquors is one place that definitely stands out from the crowd. From the moment you pick your bottle of wine from the adjoining liquor store to the first time your waitress calls you "sweetie" to the last slice of pizza you eat while humming along to live musicwhat you get at Marie's is much more than a meal. It is an experience, and it is one that I think every true Chicagoan should have at least once.
Marie's Pizza and Liquors is located at 4127 W. Lawrence Ave.; call 773-725-1812 or visit www.mariespizzachicago.com .
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