I like the notion of beginning brunch with an appetizer, a little nibble to tide you over while you sip some coffee or a Bloody Mary and figure out what you'll order for the main event. So, Crosby's Kitchen had me at lobster deviled eggs.
A few months ago, Crosby's Kitchen took over the Southport Ave. spot where the shuttered Leo's Coney Island had been. The owners of Crosby's Kitchen are the same folks who operate Dunlay's, Frasca Pizzeria, D.O.C. Wine Bar and The Smoke Daddy — all spots with loyal local followings. I believe they've hit the nail on the head once again. Based on the crowd at Crosby's Kitchen on a recent Saturday afternoon, Lakeview residents are welcoming their new neighbor with open arms.
The space is decorated in soothing blues and grays. Refined tufted leather stools line the bar. Lots of wood, exposed beams and a mod fireplace make the restaurant feel like an updated take on a ski lodge (at least on a snowy day in Chicago). The servers are friendly, almost startlingly so. Every employee I interacted with appeared to be practicing his or her stand-up comedy routine. I am not particularly cheery before coffee, but one mimosa in, I found Crosby's Kitchen's gingham shirt-clad staff to be quite charming.
Speaking of which, the mimosas are made with fresh-squeezed orange juice — a nice touch, but less so when there's so darn much of it. My mimosas were a tad on the orange side. Next time I'll ask them to go easy on the juice and fill my glass with more bubbles. My dining companion, an avid sampler of Bloody Marys around Chicagoland, was pleased with her morning cocktail. It came with a tiny bottle of beer as a backer, a touch I know delights dedicated Bloody Mary drinkers.
Now, about those lobster deviled eggs. They were, as promised, "loaded with lobster." My only complaint is that the decadent appetizer was served ice cold, which obscured the rich flavors. Of course, I could have exercised some self control and let them come to room temperature before popping them one by one into my mouth. But, I did not.
The brunch menu has an interesting mix of egg dishes, lunch sandwiches and sweet entrees. You won't go wrong with one of the omelettes. The namesake Crosby's omelette is packed with a can't-resist combo of gooey mozzarella, wild mushrooms, lots of bright green spinach and a hearty sprinkling of smoky bacon. It is topped with hollandaise sauce, an indulgent touch that makes takes this omelette from very good to outstanding. It was exceeded only by the ridiculously delicious hash brown casserole that accompanied it. The menu indicates that egg dishes are served with potatoes, but doesn't tell you those potatoes are hash browns (hands down better than home fries), and it certainly gives you no clue those fried hash browns with be mixed with a savory cream sauce. What a delightful surprise! Even if there weren't plenty more to love, that hash brown casserole alone would bring me back to Crosby's Kitchen.
On my visit, the seasonal Eggs Benedict was huevos rancheros. The two breakfast classics were combined into one scrumptious meal. Instead of toasted English muffins, this Benedict was served on grilled tortillas, a creative and tasty substitution. Perfectly poached eggs were topped with tangy salsa and Hollandaise sauce was replaced by sour cream. It was definitely a Benedict to remember.
Since I started my brunch with an appetizer, I figured I should end it with a dessert, making it a three-course meal that tided me over until dinnertime. Crosby's Kitchen has several tempting sweet dishes, so you may want to plan on this same strategy. The oatmeal pancakes caught my eye, as did the iron skillet cornbread served with maple butter. But when I saw the homemade doughnuts at a nearby table, I couldn't resist. The fluffy balls of dough arrived piping hot from the fryer and amply dusted in cinnamon and sugar. The consistency was more that of a funnel cake than a doughnut, and they were fabulous in the simply wonderful way that only fried dough covered in sugar can be.
When I left Crosby's Kitchen (a little fatter and a little happier than when I arrived), I felt as if I had only scratched the surface of this fantastic new restaurant. I'll not only be heading back for brunch, but also plan to enjoy a meal after dark. Their claim to fame is an in-house rotisserie and the juicy meats coming out of it sound quite tantalizing.
Crosby's Kitchen is located at 3455 N. Southport Ave., call 773-883-2525 or visit www.crosbyschicago.com .
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