As the train rounded a bend in its mountainous track, we got our first glimpse of
Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas, on a high ridge of the Andes Mountains. It
was appropriately mysterious looking, shrouded in blowing mists. No visit to Peru is
complete without a pilgrimage to this tourist Mecca. But, we discovered that Peru is
a lot more than Machu Picchu. Our visit to this South American nation greatly
exceeded our expectations, and we wouldn't mind going back to see more.
Starting in Lima
Any visit to Peru usually begins with a flight into Lima, the capital. Lima is located on
the arid Pacific coast of Peru. We recommend staying in no less than a four-star
hotel in an upscale suburb such as Miraflores. Also, we highly recommend a guided
tour for two reasons: 1. This is the most cost-effective way to get oriented to your
surroundings, and 2. Downtown Lima can be a dangerous place, and it's not a
good idea for Gringos to wander around wearing fancy watches or other flashy
jewelry. That said, be prepared for an enjoyable dose of Spanish Colonial history.
The architecture of Lima shows that the Spanish conquistadors who arrived in the
1520s wasted no time in settling down in Lima. Francisco Pizarro conquered the
Inca in the 1530s and made Peru a Spanish colony. In 1535, Pizarro founded Lima.
The Spaniards then proceeded to live well.
The top tourist attraction in Lima is the Plaza de Armas, or Main Square. It was laid
out by Pizarro, and is the site of the Government Palace, the Cathedral, and the
Cabildo (Town Hall). The Cathedral, which was almost destroyed by an earthquake
in 1746, holds the remains of Pizarro. An interesting piece of living history is Casa
Aliaga, a mansion built by a friend of Pizarro's in the mid-1500s. The builder's
descendants have lived there ever since. Today, parts of the house are open to the
public and give an excellent idea of the luxuries the Spanish elite surrounded
themselves with.
Exploring Inca History
Most of the people in Peru are of native American descent or of mixed blood. The
pride of their heritage lies in their Inca history, not the history of Spanish Colonial
times. Our guide made quite clear to us that the Spaniards were not very nice guys.
Most of the treasures of the Inca were stolen and shipped back to Spain. But a visit
to the Gold Museum can give you an idea of the riches that the Spaniards found.
When you enter the Gold Museum, you see a huge exhibit of ancient armor and
weapons from around the world. Then you descend to the lower floor to see
thousands of gold pieces such as necklaces, masks, scepters, tumis (sacrificial
knives), nose rings, and monstrous earrings. This museum is a definite must-see.
Another way to explore Inca history is to head for Cusco, ancient capital of the Incas,
and tour the Sacred Valley of the Incas. The Spanish Colonial houses and churches
were built on the walls of Inca temples. The valley is lined with Inca ruins, some
small and some huge, especially the Fortress of Ollantaytambo. The cultural tour
culminates with a journey to Machu Picchu.
Getting to Machu Picchu
Getting to Machu Picchu was a good part of the fun. Our journey began in the Sacred
Valley, where we boarded a comfortable, modern train that runs between Cusco and
Machu Picchu. We left in the morning, settled into our dome-car seats, and were
served a light breakfast. The track followed a scenic route along the Urubamba
River, through ever-changing terrain that evolved from flat, rocky plateaus into
mountainous rain forest. We passed a small stream called Apurimac River, which
actually forms the headwaters of the mighty Amazon.
The train stopped in the town of Aguas Calientes and we boarded buses for a ride
up a steep, switchback road to the entrance to the ruins. Machu Picchu is not in real
life as it appears in the famous pictures, isolated and brooding. There are hundreds
of tourists everywhere, about one million visitors come to the site every year, and the
tourist authority expects that to double in the next few years. Nevertheless, it is a very
impressive place.
Climbing Around Machu Picchu
You enter the site through a turnstile. Then, be prepared to climb up and down over
the rocks and stones placed there in the 1400s by the Inca builders. In order to
understand what you are seeing, a guide is essential.
Machu Picchu was built by the Inca ruler Pachacuti and probably used only by
members of the Inca royal family. Our guide pointed out now-roofless granite
buildings that had been palaces and temples. At one time, steep thatched roofs had
covered the buildings. There are two sections to Machu Picchu, one urban and the
other agricultural. Like all places where the Inca grew crop plants, the agricultural
areas are terraced. Stone water channels run through the ruins.
The crowning piece of Machu Picchu is a large stone called the Intiwatana (meaning
Sun Year). It functioned as a huge sundial and calendar, marking both solstice and
equinox. The stone also was apparently an altar for sacrifices. Unfortunately, the
huge stone was damaged recently during the filming of a beer commercial.
Pachacuti was set on keeping the site a secret. According to our guide,
archaeologists have found mass graves at Machu Picchu, and the speculation is
that Pachacuti had the laborers that built the complex killed. His royal descendent
was determined that the Spaniards not find Machu Picchu, so he had all the roads
leading to it destroyed. The lost city was finally rediscovered in 1911, by American
explorer Hiram Bingham. It is now maintained by the Peruvian government.
Apres Machu Picchu
It is possible to take in Machu Picchu in one long day. You can board a train in
Cusco in the morning, spend a couple of hours touring the ruins, then return to
Cusco on a train that departs in the afternoon.
You can also stay in the area over night. There is one hotel right outside the
entrance to the ruins. Staying there affords the opportunity to see sunrise, weather
permitting. Adventurous visitors like to spend some time climbing the steep trails
around Machu Picchu. The truly hardy can even hike into Machu Picchu along the
Inca Trail. A guide and porters are required for these one- to four-day treks.
There is also a lovely hotel in Aguas Calientes. You can go bird watching, take a
nature hike, and top it all of with a dip in the hot springs and a soothing massage.
Great Shopping
There is ample opportunity to purchase Peruvian goods, such as alpaca sweaters,
pottery, and weavings. At the Indian Market in Lima, you can find lots of 'alpaca'
sweaters for between U.S.$10 and U.S.$25. They are probably made of rabbit fur or
sheep's wool—but still a bargain. Everywhere we went, we found big and little
markets with hats, trinkets, and other items that serve as souvenirs. Truly fine
alpaca goods are available in such stores as Alpaca III. In the Sacred Valley we
stopped at a small weaving center. The owners had brought women down from
poor areas in the Andes to give demonstrations of native weaving techniques. The
pieces were exquisite. Another great shopping experience was a stop at a pottery
studio, where the artist/owner had made a study of Inca colors and symbols. He
employed about 50 workers who turned out unique cups, plates, bowls, and vases.
Even the finest items are a bargain. The Sol, the Peruvian unit of currency, trades at
about three for every U.S. dollar.
The Rainbow Flag
We were amazed to see a rainbow flag flying over an official site in Cusco. In Peru,
however, the rainbow flag is not a symbol of GLBT pride. Actually, it is the flag of the
ancient Inca Empire. Peru is a very Catholic and socially conservative country. It is
not easy to be gay there. Boys and boys and girls and girls walking hand-in-hand
down the street would be frowned on—to say the least. Lima does have a few
places for people like us. For men only, there is Minotauro Club, Manuel del Pino
694, Santa Beatriz. Two gay-friendly places are La Sede, Av. 28 de Julio 441,
Miraflores, and Kafe Kitsch, Av. Bolognesi 743, Barranco.
If you are looking for a wild gay scene, Peru is definitely not the place. But if you are
looking for friendly people, good value in hotels and restaurants, and a fascinating
glimpse at the culture of our South America neighbors, you could not pick a better
place.
Your travel writer: Cynthia A. Marquard along with Ted Lally owns and manages
Aqua Terra Travel, 65 E. Wacker Place, in Chicago. Cynthia or Ted can be reached
at 312-787-2400 or 1-800-44-ENVOY. Visit www.aquaterratravel.com .
