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TRAVEL Halifax, Nova Scotia: A city of surprises
by Jerry Nunn
2008-06-11

This article shared 5434 times since Wed Jun 11, 2008
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I had always wanted to visit Canada, and when Destination Halifax offered for me to experience a vacation for Windy City Times' readers, I jumped at the chance.

Arriving later in the evening, I checked into my hotel and then went out for a bite to eat with a fellow reporter from L.A. The front desk suggested The Shoe Shop, a local haunt located downtown within walking distance. Trying the pale local ale by Alexander Keith, I soon worked up an appetite. I enjoyed one of the best burgers ever. Remember the kind your mom would make by hand and it would fall apart in the bread? That's the one, yum!

A lighthouse in Nova Scotia. Halifax, Nova Scotia.Part of Maud Lewis' house/museum. All photos by Jerry Nunn

We began our first day with a speed round of tourism. I have never seen so many men in skirts—I mean, kilts—in one place before. The Halifax Citadel prepares for battle and shoots off a cannon everyday at noon.

We took a dip in the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. With actual boats inside and remembrances from the Titanic, I learned about the great explosion of Nova Scotia. While there were several versions of what happened, history is in the eye of the beholder.

After lunch at the Cheapside Café within the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, we went on a guided tour. My first reaction upon espying an entire house museum of a local deceased folk artist, Maud Lewis, was not positive. Then it hit me like a ton of bricks. This impoverished woman with birth defects painted joy and happiness, and it brought me back to my roots of being a southern boy. The other half of the museum contained hockey exhibits but my mind was simply mad about Maud.

Our third museum was a short stop to Pier 21, where we learned about immigration through a holographic film. You can take a cruise practically from outside the museum's door, with Canadian Sailing Expeditions.

We ate a seven-course dinner at the Five Fishermen restaurant and the gay owner told us ghost stories. Let me put it this way: I stayed out of the ladies' bathroom after that one.

The Delta Hotels where we stayed was magnificent and gay-supportive.

The next day, we sampled wines at the local vineyards. The owners have grown their business from hobbies, which shows they love their grapes. I experienced ice wine ( a kind of dessert wine made from grapes that have been frozen while still on the vine ) for the first time.

You can book a gay wedding by talking to Beatrice at the Domaine de Grand Pre restaurant. I loved the back patio as a place to host this.

In another celebration of LGBT life, Rockin' the Gaybourhood—a fundraiser for Halifax Pride '08, which happens July 20-27—took place May 30 at the club known as Hell's Kitchen.

On Saturday, we browsed through North America's longest-running farmer's market. In the afternoon, we drove over to a lighthouse and learned that their community has to inherit a house and not just purchase one. I guess money can't buy you everything.

The traditions were strong in their community. The restaurants we ate at used local ingredients as much as they could, such as Chives Canadian Bistro's delicious seafood.

We pub-hopped throughout the evening and finally danced the night away at Menz bar. With Halifax's only bathhouse ( Seadogs Sauna and Spa ) across the street from the bar, 'convenience' was re-defined. This town really has something to offer everyone.

With direct flights to Canada's doorstep, take a trip this summer and show your pride in Halifax!

For more information about Nova Scotia tourism, visit www.Destinationhalifax.com .


This article shared 5434 times since Wed Jun 11, 2008
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