"In Brighton you're really allowed to do whatever you want. And, Brighton is proud to be an open thinking city."—Glenda Clarke, local tour guide
Dusk on the boardwalk near Brighton Pier is warm and assuring. By day it is a noisy tourist-laden fairground. But, after the vendors have closed their windows and the carousel on the beach below yawns to a halt, a new ambiance sets in. Locals emerge along the shoreline to sip spirits around the glow of campfires. In the distance you can hear the clanking of silverware, like wind chimes, from posh seafront cafes. A mélange of wood smoke, hardbake ( a British sweet made with molasses, butter and almonds ) and spices hangs in the ocean air. Nothing is urgent. If you close your eyes you can almost feel the city stretch into its second wind as the night comes alive.
I was one of a handful of travel reporters from across the U.S. and Canada who arrived in the U.K. to experience, first hand, many of the local flavors and attractions that Brighton, England had and Wales had to offer. It's worth noting: If you've only visited London, you've got a lot to look forward to on your next trip.
Upon arriving in Brighton ( sometimes referred to as "Brighton & Hove"because they were, at one point, mutually exclusive townships ) we made our way to myhotel ( www.myhotels.com ) , a beautiful four-star, modern hotel in the city's retro chic North Laine district. This 80-guestroom property combines serenity with sexiness. Vibrant orange, green, and pink colors adorn the rooms' interiors, offset by bright whites, spiritual designs, and floor-to-ceiling windows. Admirers of this high-tech retreat return for the excellent service and the see-and-be-seen atmosphere, especially on weekends when the first-floor cocktail bar, merkaba, is bumping with music. Seeking a smaller party? Grab a cocktail and a special someone ( s ) and head back to your room, where you can play your own beats ( not too loud ) , as each suite is outfitted with ceiling speakers that plug right into your laptop or iPod. Complete with an in-house spa, dining service, and gym access, myhotel is a total package when it comes to luxury and style.
Of course, for those seeking equally stylish, but smaller B&B-style accommodations, look no further than One Broad Street ( www.onebroadstreet.com ) . This lesbian owned and operated boutique hotel is a rare gem. Nestled in the heart of Kemp Town, Brighton's gay village, this bright and tranquil hotel is in walking distance from the city center and the beach. The owners are personable and the rooms ( some with views of the sea ) are immaculate.
The New Steine Hotel ( www.newsteinehotel.com ) is another friendly B&B alternative, also located in Kemp Town. This charming five-story Georgian townhouse offers all of the amenities of other, modern Boutiques ( Wi-Fi, 24-hour concierge service, conference rooms, etc ) , but at prices that won't break the bank ( e.g., single rooms under $60 ) . Need a night in? Head downstairs to the New Steine Bistro for a Parisian spin on traditional British cuisine. For the shoestring traveler who deserves a little pampering, The New Steine has got you covered.
Queers everywhere
In Brighton you can walk or bike almost anywhere. By all accounts, it's a small city, but it feels a lot bigger. That's because Brighton is a bustling metropolis with much of the same sophistication and elegance otherwise reserved for bigger cities, like London or Manchester. What's more, Brighton is far less expensive and runs at a considerably slower pace, save for the nightlife. Adding to its charm, Brighton is also coined "the gay capital of the United Kingdom." It's a fitting title: The town has an omnipresent gay and lesbian population. They even celebrate Brighton Pride twice a year ( www.brightonpride.org ) . Winter Pride is in March, and the upcoming event in August is the largest Pride celebration in the country. With over a week's worth of events, Brighton Pride is so big, it's hard to tell when it ends.
You'd be hard-pressed to finger a city as straight-friendly as Brighton. There are no gay enclaves here, even on St. James Street, the main strip for LGBT nightlife ( in the aforementioned Kemp Town district ) . It is a place where the lines between straight and gay blur into an "anything goes" attitude. Thus, if the gay traveler's bias is that gay is "normal," then Brighton is as mainstream and "normal" as any modern resort town ( and a little hipper, too ) . It's a place where London chic collides with artistic bohemian worldviews. And, because of its close proximity to London—approximately an hour-long train ride via BritRail ( www.britrail.com ) —Brighton boasts a sophisticated cultural scene, yet it's far from pretentious. It's a seaside city that is progressive, stylish, and oh-so-laid-back.
Brighton's status as a gay mecca remains somewhat of a mystery. Perhaps gay men were drawn to the city's artistic nature and, for that matter, its most stunning landmark, The Royal Pavilion ( www.royalpavilion.org .uk ) . In the late 18th century Prince George ( later King George IV ) , a notorious playboy known for his lavish and indulgent lifestyle, commissioned the architect John Nash to build the pavilion. It served one primary purpose: to be the king's pleasure palace, his holiday den of sin. Parties, gambling, alcohol and loose women abounded. "George was possibly the worst king in England's history. Still, that didn't stop him from wanting to fit in, to be one of the boys," said Hannelore Lixenberg, historian at The Royal Pavilion. Despite his weak governance, King George was an intelligent and charming, albeit eccentric, connoisseur. Evidence of his eclectic taste can be seen throughout the pavilion. The entire palace is a wonderfully odd smattering of Oriental and Indian kitsch. Each room, ornately decorated, is like a snapshot of a fantasy. Wood is carved to resemble bamboo pillars and dragons pour out from the tops of chandeliers. "Brighton exists because of George," Lixenberg remarked at the end of our tour. "He made this the first modern seaside resort in Europe." Perhaps King George's rich cultural heritage and exotic taste set the tone for the free-spirited Brighton we know today, for other artistic types seeking a place to fit in?
Forget fish and chips
Well, don't forget it ( it's delicious ) . However, despite the U.K.'s reputation for bland food, Brighton is, arguably, a foodie town. In fact, it's the second most culinary city outside of London with over 400 restaurants. Not into broiled meats? Then head over to Terre a Terre ( www.terreaterre.co.uk ) . Their gourmet, all-vegetarian menu will have your mouth watering, and you carnivores won't even know the difference. It's that good. In the mood for something spicy? Sawadee ( www.sawadeethai.co.uk ) will do the trick. This reasonably priced, very popular Thai restaurant, also located in Kemp Town, is cozy and filling. No frills here, but tasty, nonetheless. Also, the restaurant's storefront location on St. James Street ( the main strip for LGBT nightlife ) provides an excellent perch for people watching. For a truly elegant dining experience ( that is always casual ) head to Due South ( www.duesouth.co.uk ) , located on Brighton Beach. Head Chef Michael Bremner prides himself on serving locally sourced seafood and organic produce, thus the menu changes monthly. The pan-roasted wild sea bass, with salt fish brandade, samphire and lobster vinaigrette was out of this world. The restaurant itself is engaging. Guests can actually see into the kitchen while their meals are being prepared. Smaller parties will want to request the upper-level dining space, which boasts a breathtaking view of the ocean.
The game is afoot
Perhaps one of the best ways to enjoy Brighton is set out on your own and brush shoulders with the locals. The city's main shopping districts are almost entirely accessible by foot. Note to early risers: Don't to miss a short walk along the seafront boardwalk at dawn ( simply gorgeous ) . But if you really want to drink in the city, rent a bike ( available to guests at myhotel, as well as, at many other locations along the boardwalk ) . Once you're off, head toward Brighton Pier and follow the seawall's bike path west toward Hove, where you'll find a variety of boutique fashion stores, organic grocers, and specialty champagne vendors. And, speaking of bubbly, keep your eyes peeled for the Hove Champaign Festival ( www.hovechampagnefestival.com ) , located just off the boardwalk on the Hove Lawns ( you can't miss it ) . Thanks to our friends John and Charlotte at Brighton's tourism bureau, several of my colleagues and I had the pleasure of experiencing this lovely engagement ( the champagne tasting was purely for research, of course ) . Still feel like shopping? If name brands are your bag, Churchill Square ( www.churchillsquare.com ) offers a plethora of big brand retailers. Also, Brighton Marina ( www.brightonmarina.co.uk ) , one mile east of the city's center, has the only outlet shopping mall in town. Or, head over to The Lanes and North Laine to take leisurely stroll through an array of narrow alleyways and winding cobblestone streets. With hundreds of shops along your path, you'll stay plenty busy in this bohemian maze. Now, try to remember where you locked-up your bike.
If you prefer a more structured schedule, check out GMen Brighton ( www.gmenbrighton.com ) . The company, which caters to gay and bisexual men, will organize your vacation with activities such as kayaking, photography, and wine tasting.
Undoubtedly, the most spectacular view of Brighton's shoreline, with its many terraces and Victorian and Regency architecture, is from the sea. From Brighton Pier, hop on the Volks Railway ( the world's oldest operating electric train line ) and head to Brighton Marina. Ross Boat Tours ( www.watertours.co.uk ) offers trips on both pleasure boats and speedboats. Either tour avails stunning photo ops of the city. ( Speedboat passengers, you will get wet. )
Rock out with your…
OK, not really, but Brighton's nightlife scene is definitely unbridled. Whether you crave a pint at a local pub, or an all-night dance party, you will not be disappointed. St. James Street in Kemp Town is the strip where much of Brighton's LGBT nightlife unfolds. Still, there are other gay spots that deserve attention beyond Kemp Town, such as Regency Tavern ( 32 Russell Square ) . The music in this little local tap is usually a kind of show tunes-pop-mash-up. The interior, too, is a scream, with gilt mirrors adorning the walls and over the bar.
With the exception of some of the straight clubs on West Street, you could walk into almost any club in this town and find, well; whomever ( or whatever ) it is that strikes your fancy. At the very least, you'll be pointed in the right direction. Busy club nights usually begin on Thursday with drink specials at various bars. Friday is fun, but Saturday and Sunday are noticeably busier with many Londoners descending on the resort town for the weekend. Also, Sunday-Fun-Day in Brighton is not to be taken lightly, especially on the last Sunday of every month when Wild Fruit ( www.wildfruit.co.uk ) is on the calendar. This illustrious event draws seasoned clubbers from much of the U.K.'s south coast to an enormous venue for a party that lasts until daybreak. Each event almost always has a dressy or campy theme, and is headlined by top-tier DJs, like Fatboy Slim and Brighton's very own Freemasons.
Keeping it local? Roger that. Here are a few nightlife spots worth diving into during your stay in Brighton. To start the evening off, head to The Amsterdam Hotel & Bar ( www.amsterdam.uk.com ) . This light and airy seafront bar in Kemp Town is cool, cruisy, and very relaxed. Locals ( gay and straight ) flock here at sundown for an apéritif on the sun terrace overlooking the waterfront. It was here that our group of reporters had the opportunity to meet many of Brighton's local merchants, restaurateurs, hotel operators, and the Chair of Brighton Pride ( known locally as the drag artist Lady James ) .
After dinner, if you feel like a like boogying, stroll around the corner to The Latest Music Bar ( www.thelatest.co.uk ) for "Frockabilly," the only club in town playing 1950s music all night long. This venue, while not the most popular amongst the younger boys ( blah ) , was by far the most diverse and swingin' pre-midnight crowd in town ( a healthy mix of gay men and women ) .
For the ladies, Candy Bar ( 129, St James Street ) offers high energy in a hard rock fashion, although locals say the music is usually as contemporary as the other nightclubs in Kemp Town. Get there early if you want to play pool. There's also Queens Arms ( www.queensarmsbrighton.com ) , a traditional English pub with nightly cabaret acts and karaoke. Saturday night is especially busy with female patronage.
It's just past the witching hour, which means it's time to go to Charles Street ( www.charles-street.com ) . Located a few doors down from The Amsterdam, this is one of Brighton's largest gay clubs, and it's rumored to be the most profitable in the U.K. Complete with a seafront restaurant and afternoon bar, the energy here rises considerably after midnight, when some of the other bars begin to close. Its sleek stainless-steel interior and expansive dance floors usually draws a younger gay crowd on the weekends.
Next stop, Legends Hotel & Bar ( www.legendsbrighton.com ) . Just up the street ( still along the beachfront ) , this gay hotel houses Legends Bar and Legends Basement Club. Like the Amsterdam, Legends is a full-service operation where, by day, guests can lounge and enjoy meals out on the terrace. At night the bar begins to fill up with patrons who enjoy a bit of both scenes, with the option of dancing in the Basement Club and retreating to the upstairs bar for breath of fresh air. And, Legends Bar is certainly fresh. Its elegant interior boasts hardwood floors, leather barstools, and a cherry wood bar under a granite countertop. Queer Pop Art is displayed throughout, accentuated by cool overhead lighting. Upon entering the bar's main doors, you are at once front-and-center. Mind that spinach in your teeth, then sashay on up to the bar, or grab a table on either side of the room. It's worth noting that only its welcoming staff eclipses Legends' aesthetic. One employee in particular was not only devilishly handsome he was also genuinely pleasant. Surely, this is why Legends draws a more diverse clientele than some of its counterparts. Be sure to slip down to the sexy Basement Bar, which mesmerizes with acoustics, for a little house music before making your next move.
Hopefully, you saved some energy because the last stop of the night ( possibly ) prescribes an immersion into sound. Revenge ( www.revenge.co.uk ) is a behemoth of a club, the biggest in Brighton. It has two dance floors and a roof deck with 180-degree views of the beach and downtown. Bears, twinks, muscle boys, lesbians, leather daddies, straights, circuit boys and transgender folks ( Am I forgetting anyone? ) come to Revenge. You're sure to find your beautiful baby here ( or at least some eye candy ) . The first dance floor, splattered with disco balls, lasers, and dance platforms, spins pop and more generic house. Upstairs the sound is more encompassing and harder. On this floor, LED lights trace the entire walls and ceiling in a grid. As the music begins to hit, the lights appear to speed up as they sparkle and flash, drawing you deeper into the dance floor. It is trance inducing, almost hypnotic, like you're sitting shotgun in the DeLorean, approaching time warp speed, moments away from being blasted into the future... Great Scott! But I digress. Both rooms have bars opposite the dance floor. Because of the club's size, once you exit the dance floor, you can easily have a conversation with someone at the bar without having to shout. Make your way to the roof deck for a smoke and mingle with other patrons. You will, undoubtedly, be engaged once you visit Revenge.
It's 05:00 and you should have been home hours ago. But what's this? A new friend wants to chat you up a bit more… You're best mate is still celebrating his acceptance into Oxford… The wife won't be up for another several hours. Whatever the case may be, there is one last spot for Brighton's sleepwalkers. The Bulldog ( www.bulldogbrighton.com ) , Brighton's oldest gay bar, is open 24-hours. Located on St. James Street, and only a 5-minute walk from Revenge, this seasoned pup caters primarily to an older gay male clientele. It is dark and very cruisy; the only thing missing is cigar smoke. Nevertheless, the drinks are cheap and, because every other bar has closed, the locals are used to welcoming in just about anyone.
Oh, in case you missed it, now is the perfect time to catch the sunrise over Brighton Beach. You won't regret it. Good night!
For more information on where to go and what to do in Brighton ( and there is so much more ) check out www.visitbrighton.com, www.realbrighton.com and www.gscene.com .
And, be sure to check out American Airlines Rainbow Team before you plan your trip to the U.K. American is the only LGBT-focused sales team in the industry, with special offers tailored to the individual needs of its LGBT customers. ( www.aa.com/rainbow )
Special thanks to Charlotte Barrow and John Carmichael from Visit Brighton for their generous hospitality.
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