You no longer have to trek down to Chinatown for dim sum. Earlier this year, Yum Cha Dim Sum Parlor opened up right in the heart of downtown.
The serene space is a soothing respite from the hustle bustle of the Loop. The sleek dining room is dressed in grays and neutrals with pops of bright red. Ivory chandeliers that look like oversized chrysanthemums in full bloom provide a playful focal point.
Along with traditional dim sum offerings, wheeled to your table in carts on weekends, there are other Chinese classics like Peking duck and Mongolian beef. Dim sum purists may find the Chinese appetizers a wee bit less authentic than the stuff you'd get in Chinatown, but for my money, I'm happy to have my "brunch" in an elegant space with an expertly crafted cocktail.
Speaking of which, the specialty cocktails, all clever and boozy riffs on Chinese tea, are not to be missed. My favorite was the "Blossom"a smooth and flowery concoction of lychee puree, vodka and Mandarin rose tea syrup. It's topped with bubbly and a fresh orchid, making it as beautiful to look at as it is delicious to sip. The "Wild Ginger" is another excellent option. Vanilla tea syrup and ginger liqueur conspire to take the bite out of the whiskey, resulting in a substantial but refreshing brunch cocktail.
Once you have a cocktail in hand ( which can take a while, but well worth the wait ), get down to the business of devising a dim sum strategy. It shouldn't be too difficult because pretty much everything coming off the carts is delicious. The pork and shrimp dumplings are a familiar dim sum choice, and Yum Cha's version excels. The dumplings are soft and slightly sticky and stuffed plump with tender shrimp and succulent pork. I'd also put the char sui bao on your must-order list. The pillowy steamed buns are filled with a generous scoop of tangy barbeque pork.
The pork soup dumplings are another fun ( and very tasty ) options. Be sure to slice them open and add a sliver of fresh ginger before you slurp the soup and devour the tender dumpling. The crispy shrimp egg rolls, perfect golden brown on the outside, will please even hesitant dim sum first-timers. The "Buddha" chicken wings are a less traditional offering, and definitely worth a try. The juicy chicken is doused in spicy sesame sauce that adds a nice amount of heat.
If you want to add a main course to your dim sum, there are nicely made versions of all of your Chinese takeout favorites. I really enjoyed the crispy sesame beef. It wasn't super crispy, but the flavors of the rich, savory sauce and tender beef rescued the dish. The Chinese broccoli is fresh and crisp, but the crispy cauliflower ( on the dim sum menu ) makes a more interesting veggie side dish. The cauliflower is lightly battered and fried with a little bit of chili spice.
Round after round of dim sum may leave you reluctant to order dessert. Ignore your better judgement and try the deep-fried coconut milk. It's not as overly sweet as it sounds. It has the consistency of custard on the inside and a light tempura batter on the outside.
Yum Cha is located at 333 E. Upper Randolph St.; call 312-946-8885 or visit www.yumchachicago.com .
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