THE VOICE OF CHICAGO'S GAY, LESBIAN, BI, TRANS AND QUEER COMMUNITY SINCE 1985

Inside, Little Vietnam is unremarkable. White walls and bright lighting make the dining room more utilitarian than relaxing. Colorful abstract art and a few traditional Vietnamese straw hats hung haphazardly on the stark walls don't do much to improve the ambiance. All that said, the food is mighty good—perhaps not outstanding enough to compensate for the ridiculously slow and disinterested service. But, I would recommend Little Vietnam for take-out or delivery.

The menu is shorter than many of the Vietnamese joints in Uptown, but all of the classics are represented. The shrimp spring rolls are a straightforward and satisfying appetizer. The meaty shrimp are nestled in lots of lettuce and herbs that add a fresh crunch to the rolls. My favorite starter was the pork wonton soup. The tender wontons are engorged with savory minced pork, and swimming in a hot bowl of flavorful chicken broth that is brightened by subtle citrus notes and plenty of fresh cilantro. The wonton soup could easily stand on its own as a light dinner or warm lunch on cool autumn afternoons that will be upon us before we know it.

Main course offerings consist of a nice selection of pho and bahn mi, as well as a couple of rice bowls and a handful of "chef's dishes" like lemongrass chicken and braised catfish cooked in a clay pot. For $7 a pop, the large, hot bowls of pho are a great value. The nicely seasoned broths are brimming with sliced meat, al dente rice noodles, crisp veggies and fragrant herbs. I particularly enjoyed the steak pho, with its thin strips of beef ( perfect for assembling that perfect spoonful of soup that has bits of all the ingredients ). Jalapeno gives the pho some flavorful heat. The beef with asparagus is also worth a try. The tenderloin is shaved thin and simmered in a light mushroom gravy. Fresh and ever so slightly cooked asparagus adds a nice lightness and crunch to the dish, which is served along with steamed jasmine rice. It's not overly seasoned, which lets the pure flavors of the meat and vegetables shine through.

Service was so slow when I visited that I didn't think I'd be able to stick around for dessert—but I'm glad I did because I found the Vietnamese yogurt to be a pleasant surprise. It comes frozen in a small jar, and is tart and creamy. A scoop of fresh-chopped strawberries lends all the sweetness the simple yogurt needs, making for a satisfying dessert that won't destroy your diet.

Little Vietnam is at 1132 W. Bryn Mawr Ave.; call 773-944-0999 or visit www.littlevietnam.co.

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