I was excited when I heard that the owners of Burger Philosophy were turning the Bryn Mawr Avenue spot into a new bar/restaurant concept in Andersonville. While Burger Philosophy served a pretty good burger, the place was desperately lacking in ambiance and didn't serve alcohol, so it just didn't seem to have the potential to become a go-to neighborhood hangout.
Several coats of deep gray paint, gorgeous reclaimed wood floors, copper bar height tables and a really impressive craft cocktail menu have solved that problem for Little Bad Wolf. It's definitely the kind of place where you want to gather with friends for a few rounds of drinks and some killer bar food.
The food at Little Bad Wolf can only loosely be classified as bar food, and that is because it is far superior than the grub you get at most taverns. It's bar food only inasmuch as it is served alongside adult beverages in a casual atmosphere. When I first saw the menu, I was a little concerned because of the disparate offerings—there's everything from fried chicken to pork baos to shrimp tacos. I am always skeptical of restaurants that try to be all things to all people because they usually end up with a long list of mediocre dishes, none of which have been perfected or finely crafted. Not the case at Little Bad Wolf—every morsel I tasted was far above average and the wide variety of offerings are exactly what makes the place a perfect gathering spot. There's a little bit of everything, so everybody in your group can order what they want. You can have a full meal or a few rounds of smaller cocktail-friendly nibbles.
The jumbo fried shrimp are a crowd-pleasing app to share. The plump shrimp are perfectly fried to a crunchy golden exterior. The tacos and baos can all be ordered individually, if you're in the mood for a light nosh while you imbibe. Choose from among pork, chicken, steak, fish and shrimp fillings for both the baos and the tacos. If you opt for the tacos, order a side of elotes. The crisp corn is expertly flavored with plenty of chili aioli and fresh Mexican cheese. It's a tad on the spicy side, but a beer-battered avocado on top provides some cool relief.
If you're looking for some comfort food ( and who isn't at this time of year? ), do yourself a favor and order the mac and cheese. I have a particular weakness for mac and cheese, and have sampled the dish at more restaurants than I'd care to admit, and I can say this is one of the most exquisite versions I've tasted. The sharp creamy cheese sauce is delicious on its own, and when swirled with juicy bits of honey-cured bacon and scallions, it is absolutely out of this world. The combination sounds like it could be too rich, but it's done so well that it heavenly instead of heavy ( although the side dish portion is probably enough for most appetites ).
My favorite dish was the fried chicken—an unexpected standout on a bar-food menu. The chicken itself is exceptionally tender and juicy, and it's beautifully fried to a crisp finish in a thick batter. When you bite into it, you can taste tangy notes of fresh buttermilk. The scrumptious chicken is served with a generous dollop of creamy mashed potatoes smothered in golden bacon gravy.
The guys behind Little Bad Wolf proved that they know how to grill a nice burger during their Burger Philosophy days, and I'd argue that they've improved upon an already good thing. A mix of savoring seasonings draw out the flavor of the juicy beef. They are served simply with American cheese, mayo and housemade pickles, which drastically undersells them. In a world where burgers are topped with every imaginable thing ( Brie, fried eggs, you name it ), this straightforward recipe shines in its simplicity. The burgers are accompanied by a nest of hot, salty French fries served in a miniature fryer basket—a clever and thoughtful addition to a satisfying meal.
Little Bad Wolf seems to be off to a great start. The space is small, so be prepared for a wait on weekend nights. Fortunately, you can bide your time with a stiff drink at the bar.
Little Bad Wolf is at 1541 W. Bryn Mawr Ave.; call 773-942-6399 or visit lbwchicago.tumblr.com .
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