I stumbled upon Enso Sushi & Bar earlier this summer after a failed Costco run. My wife and I trekked down to Lincoln Park only to discover that Costco closes at 6 p.m. on Saturdays. Who knew? And yes, we were going to Costco on a Saturday night. Ah, marital bliss.
Fortunately, we found ourselves in Bucktown at dinnertime on a beautiful summer evening. I spotted an empty table near the doors that open onto the lively Damen Ave. sidewalk, and we decided to have dinner at Enso. The place is a hole in the wall in the truest sense. It's a tiny and dark tunnel-like space. The black ceilings are studded with small white lights, giving the impression that you're either at an exhibit at the Planetarium or in the bedroom of an eight-year-old who has "decorated" with those glow-in-the-dark stars you stick on the ceiling for your mom to discover years later.
The menu combines East and West in a manner that is both playful and sophisticated. Think "Tokyo nachos," made with an assortment of fresh fish, avocado and truffle oil mayo, and crispy soft-shell crab "sliders."
The short ribs are an excellent starter. The plump ribs are cooked to perfection in miniature cast iron pans that arrive blazing hot at your table. The ribs are slathered in a finger-lickin' good sauce that is sticky and sweet with just enough Asian spice.
Don't get too far into your meal without a cocktail. In addition to a nice, but pricy, wine list, Enso also has an expansive selection of sake. There is a chrysanthemum-flavored sake that pairs really nicely with all kinds of fresh fish. It's bright and fragrant with subtle floral notes, but not at all sweet.
Enso's sushi menu is one of the more impressive I've laid eyes on. You'll find old stand-bys like sweet potato tempura, Philly and dragon rolls, but you may want to swap out your usual order for some of the more inventive options. And, get this: You can play sushi chef for the night because there is a make-your-own-maki section of the menu. You get a long list of options and you can build your own roll from the bottom up. Swap out soy paper for seaweed, combine shrimp and lobster, or create your own concoction by mixing wasabi mayo and cilantro—whatever you can dream up, they will make it for you.
I elected to leave my dinner to the experts, with a selection of specialty rolls. I loved the Wocka-Wocka, which is a souped-up version of a standard Philly roll. In addition to soy-marinated salmon and cream cheese, this delectable roll is stuffed with scallops, drizzled with truffle oil mayo and topped with fried shallots. I know, who wants a basic Philly when you can have all of that? I would have preferred a bit more truffle mayo, but the Wocka-Wocka was still outstanding.
The "North Shore" roll is another standout. Fat chunks of lobster are fried in tempura batter, layered with avocado and cream cheese and spiked with Sriracha and wasabi mayo. Tobiko, chives and even more tempura (in the form of crumbs) top it all off. It's decadent and delicious.
Now, don't go thinking you can get this fancy sushi for the price of a California roll. You can't. The North Shore roll, for instance, will cost you the better part of a $20 bill. But, it's worth it.
The electric eel maki served as a lighter choice among my cream cheese-heavy selections—but it's far from basic. Tempura unagi plays the starring role. Unagi sauce and spicy mayo add some kick, and asparagus and spicy tuna give it a fresh and light finish.
I also sampled several pieces of super white tuna nigiri, and the quality of the fish—when left to stand on its own without any smears of cream cheese or crispy bits of tempura—was a testament to the freshness of all of the fish at Enso. The tuna was rich and tender, just as it should be.
My discovery of Enso Sushi was a happy accident—and I'm glad I found it. It's a clever little place that feels right at home in Bucktown.
Enso Sushi & Bar is located at 1613 N. Damen Ave.; call 773-878-8998 or visit www.ensochicago.com .
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