I have dined at two of the restaurants operated by husband-and-wife team Nicole and Stephan Outrequin Quaisser. I enjoyed my meals at both the now-closed LM and at LM Bistro. So, I was pleased when I found out the couple was opening a new restaurant right in Andersonville, where I live. I presumed Brasserie 54 would offer the same kind of reasonably priced French classics as the Outrequin Quaissers' other eateries.
While I was happy to see Brasserie 54 in the neighborhood, I didn't feel compelled to rush in for dinner. What did eventually get me through the door were two of the restaurant's other offeringsits Sunday brunch and its elegant upstairs cocktail lounge.
My first visit was to L'Etage, the bar situated above Brasserie 54 in the Clark Street space that was formerly (and very briefly) occupied by Premise. Gorgeous dark wood floors, lots of sturdy tufted leather and deep orange walls give the space a sexy masculine vibe. Crystal chandeliers add just a touch of sophisticated femininity to the room. Dim lighting and the hidden entrance make L'Etage feel sort of clandestine, making it the perfect place to sneak away to romance a hot date or to unwind after a long week.
If summer ever arrives, a few lucky guests can take the party outside on L'Etage's cute outdoor patio. Luxe wicker couches and heat lamps make it seem like the perfect spot to chill out all night long.
To aid you in your romancing or unwinding, L'Etage has a delightful list of specialty cocktails. Each of the boozy concoctions will set you back $10 and amuse you with clever names and descriptions. The "Femme Fatale"made with quinoa vodka, pear shrub, pear brandy, lemon juice and a splash of bubblycomes with this disclaimer "She's pretty and deadly."
I couldn't resist the "Bulles Paradis," which the folks at L'Etage have dubbed "maybe the gayest drink ever." When in Rome, right? The pretty pink cocktail is made with Brut Rose and St. Germain and is garnished with bright yellow lemon zest. It's served in a champagne flute and a beautiful hibiscus flower floats on top. It sure was nice to look at and went down very easily.
If you're in the mood for a more substantial libation, one of the whiskey, bourbon or rye drinks may appeal to you. I enjoyed the "Nevermore," which is made with Journeyman Ravenswood Rye, Bittermens Hiver Amer Amaro and brown sugar simple syrup. Orange flavor and cinnamon branded cherries provide very subtle sweetness to balance the bitter rye. After one of these potent drinks, the worries of your day should seem like distant memories.
Don't forget your wallet when you go to L'Etage because there aren't any cocktails on the menu for less than $10. But, if you want to impress someone special, this is a great place to do it. If you just want a stiff drink in a lovely space, stop in for one pre-dinner cocktail or a nightcap.
My second visit to Brasserie 54 was to the main restaurant for brunch. I stopped dead in my tracks when I saw a sign on the window advertising a bottomless mimosa brunch. The sign promised an entrée plus an endless supply of bubbly morning goodness for just $22. Sold!
My wife and I planned a double date with some of our best buds and headed to Brasserie 54 for what promised to be a delightful early spring afternoon. In stark contrast to L'Etage, Brasserie 54 is bright and sunny. Tile floors, tin ceilings and simple modern furniture give the space a charming French aesthetic.
The menu, a mix of French classics and breakfast staples mostly priced below $10, is just as delightful as the space. I was tempted by the very Parisian Galette Complete, a buckwheat crepe with ham, Swiss cheese and a sunny side up egg. I was feeling particularly carnivorous, so I opted instead for one of that day's specialsa sirloin patty topped with cheese and a sunny side up egg. I was expecting more of a steak, so wasn't thrilled when the sirloin patty turned out to be basically a hamburger. But, it was delicious and super filling.
Brasserie 54 does a great job with one of the most beloved French café staples, the croque monsieur. Savory slices of ham are slathered in béchamel sauce and Dijon mustard and sandwiched between two thick pieces of golden brown French toast. The whole decadent beauty is topped with a generous amount of bubbly melted Swiss cheese. If your arteries are feeling a little to roomy, make your croque a Madame by adding an egg.
Now, about those mimosas: They are, indeed, bottomless. In fact, when our waitress learned several people at our table were imbibing, she brought over a big 'ol pitcher of mimosa. Normally, that would be my dream come true. The problem was that these mimosas were made with way too much orange juice. Not that you want to overindulge while the sun is shining, but you wouldn't be drinking in the morning if you weren't looking for, well, a little buzz. Sadly, none was to be had in these mimosas. My group left completely sober, but on the verge of a diabetic shock from all of the orange juice we consumed in search of some champagne. In retrospect, I happily would have forfeited the "bottomless" option in exchange for a mimosa made with proper parts champagne and orange juice. Next time, I'll know better. C'est la vie.
Brasserie 54 is located at 5402 N. Clark St.; call 773-334-9463 or visit www.brasserie54.com .
Do you need some more Sugar & Spice in your life? Follow me on Twitter @SugarAndSpiceMS for inside scoop and commentary on Chicago's dining scene.