Yet another new restaurant has opened in Little Italy. Three Aces, the latest addition to the Taylor Street strip, is serving farm-fresh Italian fare in a laid-back tavern atmosphere. The tagline on the menu boasts, "The Italian countryside meets the American farmhouse … in Keith Richard's basement."
When I pulled up a barstool to the high-top table reserved for me and my girl posse, and perused the substantial wine list as too-loud rock music boomed in the background and dudes watched sports on big-screen TVs mounted above the bar, I thought to myself, "This is either going to be the best bar food I've ever had, or the Italian restaurant with the least Italian ambiance I've ever been to."
When all was said and done, it was somewhere in between.
The food is fresh—there is no arguing with that—and the menu items are confidently creative ( even if they don't always hit the mark ) . I started with a fall panzanella ( a bread salad ) made with root-vegetable confit, arugula, gorgonzola and red-wine vinaigrette. I give the dish a strong B+ and extra credit for an inventive use of butternut squash. I also tried a few spoonfuls of the pumpkin and pancetta soup, which sounded brilliant, but in reality was a thin, bland broth that tasted only vaguely of pumpkin—or pancetta for that matter.
If you're on a budget ( and who isn't these days? ) , Three Aces has some tasty nibbles for as little as $2 on the bar bites section of the menu. Definitely try a bowl of the popcorn with scallions and parmesan, which is one of the best ways I've seen popcorn gussied up in a long time—and it comes with a hot roasted garlic sauce. Five dollars will buy you a big bowl of duck-fat chips, which some of my dining companions really enjoyed, but did nothing for me. Priced at just $2 a slice, the bruschetta is tempting. The selections will be changing daily, and I expect they'll improve. But unfortunately on my visit, they were serving a butternut-squash version that was nearly inedible. The butternut squash was pureed until it resembled Velveeta cheese, and was about as flavorful. To add insult to injury, it was served cold. To be fair, it was topped with thick slices of fresh parmesan and super fresh arugula that could have very well been picked that same day.
Try the cheese and charcuterie if you're looking for a tasty shareable app. You can choose from among a handful of cheeses including Mindoro Gorgonzola and Rogue River Oregon Blue, as well as a smattering of salamis and prosciutto. A few of my friends went wild over the chicken-liver pate. To drive home the whole "farm to table theme," the cheese plates are served on huge slabs of wood apparently cut right from the center of a big old tree—a nice and unexpected touch, which you certainly wouldn't see at any old bar that serves food.
If you're throwing back a few beers at Three Aces and you get a taste for pizza, you will not be disappointed with the pizzettas. The crusts are thin and crisp and topped with all kinds of farm-fresh ingredients. I went with a classic Margherita, which was simple and satisfying. As for pasta, I highly recommend the pappardelle, which is homemade and tossed in a hearty Bolognese with seasoned mascarpone. After trying just a bite of my friend's pappardelle, I could not resist ordering a bowl for myself.
Three Aces' Executive Chef Matt Troost said the restaurant's menu is designed to invite people to sit and longer. Enjoy a cocktail and some small appetizers. Then order another round of drinks and some pasta or a pizza. If you're in the mood for a more substantial meal, you'll find several choices at really affordable prices. The night I visited, Chef Troost had a perfectly seasoned trout atop scrumptious fingerling potatoes on special for just $13.
There's no dessert menu, but there are several sweet libations that make fine substitutes for a piece of cheesecake or tiramisu. I chose the "Tease," which is not only pink, but made with both champagne and St. Germain—so it's basically all of my favorite things mixed in one little cocktail glass.
If you're looking for a cool bar with a relaxed atmosphere that serves high-quality food ( no frozen mozzarella sticks or greasy French fries here! ) , Three Aces is your place. I think Troost and his knowledgeable and friendly staff will make a very welcome addition to the neighborhood.
Three Aces is at 1321 W. Taylor; call 312-243-1577.
Want to know what I'm eating and what I think about it between my columns? Follow me on Twitter at SugarAndSpiceMS.
