One of the perks of living in a major metropolitan area is that you can get just about any type of food dressed up as a gourmet version of its former self. Here in Chicago, we can have our doughnuts dipped in raspberry coulis, our burgers made with Kobe beef and our enchiladas prepared by Rick Bayless.
But, one cuisine that has been conspicuously missing from the city's upscale dining scene is Vietnamese. Not to knock the many wonderful and authentic Vietnamese restaurants on the Argyle strip in Uptown, but sometimes you just want a $9 grapefruit caipirinha with your pho ga and your clay pot catfish served to you while you lounge at a sleek, high-backed booth overlooking the skyline.
Enter Sawtooth.
This three-story West Loop newcomer combines traditional Vietnamese food with modern urban style. Interior designer turned restaurateur Dzuy Dao said he isn't reinventing Vietnamese cuisine, he's simply adding "tiny, tiny twists to make it contemporary."
The chicken wings, for example, are slathered in a jalapeño garlic sauce instead of the more expected fish sauce. It's a subtle departure that makes for a "must-order" app. The pho ( which can be ordered in a smaller size for a starter ) is made with a flavorful broth and mounds of fresh herbs. There is no chewy pork or cheap cuts of beef to be found in this upgraded soup. Sawtooth's pho bo is made with tender filet mignon.
The full bar features a handful of specialty cocktails worth trying. The "Summer in Saigon" mixes Bombay Dry, elderflower liqueur and a splash of aloe vera soda with muddled cucumber and lemon. We may not be in Saigon, but Chicago has had one heck of a heat wave, and this drink could not possibly be more refreshing on a hot, humid night. But the real stars are on the wine list, which is appropriately heavy on crisp whites to accompany the light, fresh Vietnamese cuisine. There are bottles under $50 from Germany, France, Italy and Spain, and a lovely California Chenin Blanc by the glass.
Seafood dominates the main courses, but there are a few meat options and a couple of dishes can be made vegetarian. The salted jumbo prawns are served on a "pineapple bed," which I assumed would be chunks of fruit. Oh no, this stunner is served atop an actual half of a pineapple, leaves and all. The juicy grilled pineapple complements the enormous prawns which are sprinkled with garlic breadcrumbs and scallions. The prawns are clearly fresh and the presentation is dazzling, but I think the dish would be even better with a sauce.
My top pick is the red snapper, which is served whole in a spicy tomato sour sauce. The flavorful fish is delicately breaded and served with peppers, onions and pineapple swimming in a tangy sauce that is sweet, sour and peppery all at the same time. Market price for the snapper was $35 when I visited, but it's worth it ( and large enough to share ) .
Even if you grab a seat on Sawtooth's luxe patio ( which I would recommend while the weather still allows ) , take a stroll inside. Dao was formerly an interior designer, so he's obviously put his talents to work at his new restaurant. Clean lines and a neutral palette with pops of color mirror the simplicity and freshness of the Vietnamese food. Downstairs, rows of dark wood tables studded with mod orange chairs line the concrete floor. One the second floor, oversized booths, dim lighting and a spectacular view create a loungey atmosphere. There's even a private dining room with one of the most beautiful hand-carved wooden tables I've ever laid eyes on. All you need to score this coveted spot is a few friends and $700.
Sawtooth is a cilantro-like herb used in Vietnam to honor special guests. When your dish is prepared or garnished with sawtooth, Dao said you know "that you have been treated well." Dao said he named his restaurant after the herb because he wants all of his guests to feel comfortable and welcome.
From the enthusiastic and knowledgeable service to the sommelier-selected wine list to the thoughtfully prepared Vietnamese classics, I'd have to say Dao is off to a great start in welcoming Chicagoans to Sawtooth.
Sawtooth is at 1350 W. Randolph; call 312-526-3320 or visit www.sawtoothrestaurant.com .
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