The guys behind The Fifty/50, a Ukrainian Village sports bar and grill that serves up simple pub grub made with the highest quality ingredients and just a touch of upscale panache, are at it again. This time co-owners Scott Weiner and Greg Mohr are trying their hands at Italian cuisine.
The pair ( who have logged time with Chicago classics like Joe's and Gibson's ) plan to open Roots Handmade Pizza in March on the corner of Chicago and Winchester. Last week they offered a sneak peek at some of the items that will grace Roots' menu—and I can say without hesitation that I'll be back to indulge when they officially open.
Look for basic Italian food like lasagna and fried mozzarella made with the freshest and finest ingredients. Think handmade cheese, homemade sausage and secret sauces. Don't skip the deep-fried mozzarella balls ( not like you'd ever be that foolish ) . They're made with that handmade cheese, which blows the flavorless mass-produced stuff out of the water, and they're fried golden brown in an Asiago cheese cracker-meal coating. I'm salivating at the thought as I write this.
The lasagna was a delicious exercise in excess. The menu advertised four layers of handmade pasta, but I swear this heaping two-pounder has at least 10 layers of soft, perfectly cooked lasagna noodles. Layered in between were heavenly Parmesan béchamel, a blend or four-whipped cheeses and zesty homemade marinara. The whole monstrosity was topped with just the right amount of sausage ( made in house, of course ) .
Sadly, the pizza ovens aren't up and running yet, so I wasn't able to try Roots' pizza. Weiner said they'll be serving Quad City-style pies featuring doughy bread-like crust that is made with malt. I can't attest, but based on what these guys do with a pan of lasagna—or a burger for that matter—I don't think there will be any complaints about the pizza.
Speaking of burgers, Weiner and Mohr took the opportunity at the Roots' preview to debut two brand-new burgers now available at The Fifty/50. If you've ever been to this joint, you are well aware that they know how to cook a burger. The perfectly-seasoned, high-grade beef cooked to juicy perfection is enough to draw you in, and the decadent array of toppings make them simply irresistible. Weiner pointed out that many of his cooks have come from Joe's and Gibson's, so these guys know how to cook a steak, and they apply that same carnivorous expertise grilling burgers at The Fifty/50.
Translating the steak and seafood combos they're used to turning out Joe's and Gibson's into burger form, Weiner and Mohr have concocted an out-of-this-world surf-and-turf burger. It's topped with a whopping four-ounce crab cake, covered in melting Swiss and pepper jack cheeses and slathered with a housemade Creole mustard sauce. Any attempts to practice moderation in the face of this burger are futile.
Just when I thought all of the edible surprises were over ( and I couldn't possibly eat another bite ) , Weiner dropped another burger on my table. It was topped with what appeared to be a waffle, which confused me more than it made me hungry. Then I was enlightened. This "waffle" is actually waffleized mac and cheese!!! Yes, you read that right. These culinary geniuses, eschewing the now ubiquitous fried mac and cheese bites, have discovered a truly novel way to serve America's favorite food. They've taken mac and cheese, pureed it, cooked it in a waffle iron and slapped it on top of a burger. They just might be my new heroes. It's crisp like a waffle on the outside and bursting with creamy macaroni and sharp cheeses on the inside. As if that weren't enough, this burger is also topped with house-smoked pulled pork and cheddar cheese spread and served on a warm pretzel bun. If you'd like to give your arteries a run for their money, this is the burger for you. You're going to go one way or another, so live a little while you can! Incidentally, Weiner and Mohr have aptly named this burger "The O-Face"—and with very good reason. I dare you to bit into this juicy, indulgent burger and maintain a neutral expression.
The Fifty/50 located at 2047 W. Division; call 773-489-5050 or visit www.thefifty50.com .
Roots Handmade Pizza is scheduled to open in March on the corner of Chicago and Winchester.
Want to know what I'm eating and what I think about it between my columns? Follow me on Twitter—@SugarAndSpiceMS.
