If you want to forget about the recession for a while, head to 160 E. Pearson and take the elevator to the 12th floor. There you'll find Deca Restaurant + Bar, the Ritz Carlton's sophisticated new brasserie-inspired eatery.
The hotel recently underwent a lavish $25 million makeover, which included the launch of Deca. When I paid a visit, eager-to-please staff members greeted me. I settled into a leather wingback chair, sipped a glass of Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs, and gazed at the stunning Chicago skyline while the Ritz's signature skylit fountain whirred in the background and a two-piece jazz band filled the room with music. Within five minutes, I was transported back to a time when the Dow was high and unemployment rates were low. Ahhhhh, life at the Ritz!
My girlfriend and my ( fingers crossed! ) future mother-in-law began with the seafood and shellfish tower—a lavish array of huge poached shrimp, meaty lobster claws, oysters, clams and a fantastic scallop ceviche. What I wouldn't give to begin every meal with lobster and champagne!
You also can't go wrong with the charcuterie plate, which includes salty slices of paper-thin salami and tangy grain mustard. I couldn't help but notice that even the butter for our bread was sprinkled with an extra dash of indulgence in the form of big chunks of sea salt. That is precisely when my crash no-carb diet was put on hold for the duration of the evening.
We also tried the chicken-liver pâté, which was presented in a mason jar, topped with a wine "jelly" and served with warm brioche. But, my top pick of the many tasty starters was the asparagus salad. It is more cheese than vegetable ( and, let's face it, that is the best kind of salad ) . Served with Burrata, an Italian cheese made from buffalo milk and cream, this salad is an excellent alternative to the tired mozzarella-and-tomato version you can get just about anywhere. Burrata is super-soft, creamy and the perfect match for the crisp asparagus and spring peas it accompanies.
Deca's wine list is extensive, with plenty of French varietals, as well as several from Italy, New Zealand and Napa Valley. Glasses of wine are served in Art Deco decanters. It is that kind of attention to detail that makes a meal memorable ( or difficult to remember, depending on the number of glasses you imbibe ) . To accompany my main course, I chose the Chateau de Sancerre, a lovely, full-bodied white wine that is excellent with fish. Speaking of which, Chef Mark Payne's pan-seared sea bass is fantastic—crisp on the outside and served atop roasted new potatoes with salsa verde. The halibut is unremarkable, but very good. It's a thick cut of well-seasoned fish with fresh zucchini, ramps and tomato. I'd skip the skate wing ( normally one of my favorite fishes ) because it's served with braised endive that is too chewy, a sauce that is too vinegary and golden raisins that detract from rather than enhance the dish.
The flame-grilled quail is paired with soft polenta, which I thought was an excellent choice. However, the marinade tasted too much like soy sauce for me to really get into it. The grilled lamb cutlets were cooked nicely, and served over a ratatouille with basil oil, which sounds like it will be full of flavor, but is actually kind of bland. Also look for brasserie classics like steak au poivre and duck confit.
For $5 a pop, I'd strongly advise ordering a few side dishes. The truffle fries are delicious, if a bit predictable. And, the cavatappi mac and cheese is a hot, creamy cauldron of Wisconsin cheddar—an obvious winner on any menu.
Pastry chef Eric Estrella does not disappoint. There's a cheesecake-esque dessert made with fromage blanc and wine-marinated strawberries, which was quite good. But, it was the lemon tarte with sable crust and fresh raspberries that made my night. Raspberry is indisputably the ideal complement to tangy lemon, and the light, buttery crust beneath this tarte ties it all together perfectly. My girlfriend ordered coffee with Baileys and, to her delight, it was topped with good inch of cream so fresh I'd be willing to wager it was whipped in the kitchen just before it arrived at our table—another simple touch that makes you feel like you got your hard-earned money's worth.
The crowd at Deca appeared to be primarily tourists and business travelers, but as a bonafide local, I'll definitely keep this place in mind when I'm looking for a little old-school elegance. It's the perfect spot to stop for a salad and a glass of crisp white wine when you need a break from Michigan Avenue shopping or a nice place to begin an evening on the town with a bottle of bubbly and some upscale apps. And here's the best part—all glasses and bottles of wine are half price through Labor Day. That means you can grab a glass of burgundy and a bowl of French onion soup for just $14 or a glass of Prosecco and some truffle fries for only $10—a few moments of indulgence at recession-proof prices. I'll take it.
Deca Restaurant + Bar is located in the Ritz Carlton, 160 E. Pearson; call 312-573-5160 or visit decarestaurant.com .
