Believe it or not, there is more to Chicago's Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA) than eye-catching displays (with this writer remembering the David Bowie and Virgil Abloh exhibits from years past) and thought-provoking discussions.
Marisol Restaurant & Bar is a larger-than-expected space in the museum that turns out to be pleasurable to more than one of the senses, including sight, smell and (most importantly, for this article) taste. The art of award-winning British artist Chris Ofili is highlighted, from Marisol's color scheme to a mural (depicting a sorceress in a cave, two figures and a mythical beast) in the back of the private dining area.
And this spot, which has been opened for several years, has its regulars, as a recent lunchtime visit revealed. (The restaurant was bustling on a Wednesday, and the crowd reflected a mix of museum visitors, socialites and employees from nearby Northwestern University and Northwestern Memorial Hospital. Of note: People can dine at Marisol without seeing the MCA's exhibits.)
Chef Jason Hammel, who also helms Lula Cafe, has come up with some creative dishes. The bad news is that some are seasonal, with certain ingredients varying depending on the season. However, there are plenty of "evergreen" items, including a vegan burger with chickpea black bean patty, vegan aioli, little gem slaw, and vegan brioche; steamed mussels with pancetta; the MCA burger, with havarti, pickle, secret sauce and challah; and the Marisol salad, with little gem lettuce, apple, dill, macadamia, pecorino and "natural food salad dressing."
Lunch actually started with sunflower hummus with artichoke, oregano and flaxseed crackers. The hummus was especially tasty, and even provided some slight heat. A new version of Marisol's burrata featured salsa verde and cocoa nib, and proved to be absolutely addictive. The Marisol salad was delightful and so refreshing that it had me picturing myself eating this on a patio in the middle of summer.
And this brought me to the centerpiece of the meal: a tempura acorn-squash bocadillo (a Spanish-style sandwich) with avocado, honey, and goat cheese whipped with sobrassada (cured sausage) that will be served through January. The sandwich is the result of an ongoing Chef Collaborative Series, this time with Bocadillo Market Executive Chef James Martin. (An interview with Martin is below.) As for the sandwich itself, the flavors play off each other wonderfully, resulting in a reason to return to this restaurant several times before Jan. 31—although I also want to try items like the Japanese milk bread and fried-chicken sandwich. (Interestingly, the sous chef who worked during my visit commented that he tried a soyrizo version at home, and that it worked out pretty well.)
But I managed to make room for dessert as well: peach-tarragon ice cream accompanied with a sugar cone. I must admit that the flavor profile initially threw me off; however, the more I consumed the mix of sweetness and slight grassiness, the more I liked it. (Other dessert options include affogato and a Marisol cookie box.)
Marisol's cuisine is the perfect fit for the MCA: The innovative menu items are, themselves, works of art.
Marisol is on the first floor of the Museum of Contemporary Art, at 205 E. Pearson Ave. Visit www.marisolchicago.com .
Note: This visit was arranged.
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Chef James Martin talks Bocadillo Market, the MCA and the future
Bocadillo Market Executive Chef James Martin is taking part in Marisol Restaurant & Bar's Chef Collaborative Series that started in May. (Past participants have included Thattu Chef Margaret Pak and Peach Chef Trillis Rollins.) Martin's tasty contribution is a tempura acorn-squash bocadillo (a Spanish-style sandwich) with avocado, honey, and goat cheese with sobrassada (cured sausage) that will be served through January 2024.
Recently, Martin talked about the sandwich, his restaurant and South Carolina, among other things.
Note: This conversation was edited for clarity and length.
Windy City Times: You and I have something in common—relatives in South Carolina.
Chef James Martin: Oh, yeah! They're in Charleston, Summerville and Summerton.
WCT: Tell me about Bocadillo Market. What makes it so unique?
Martin: It's a community, neighborhood-focused concept that's about good food and hospitality. It creates a sense of neighborhood, like when you go to Spain; even if [the scene] is overwhelming, you have this vibe and space that's accessible to most.
So we're a coffee shop, we make our own pastries throughout the day and we make bocadillos—classic Spanish sandwiches—from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. And at night—Thursday, Friday and Saturday—we do dinner at 5-9 p.m., and it's more fine dining. So you have this all-day concept that creates this vibe that allows everyone to enjoy the inspiration of what Spain's all about.
WCT: So how did the collaboration with Marisol come about?
Martin: That came about because, in Spain, there's crispy eggplant with rosemary and honey. Before I opened Bocadillo Market, I wanted to work with tempura squash blossoms or any kind of roasted squash in the summer or fall. An acorn squash from the fall has that creamy texture on the inside and crunchy texture on the outside, and the squash blossoms are different [from] those made in springtime and summertime—and it keeps it seasonal as well.
The collaboration with the MCA came about because I work with [the nonprofit organization] Pilot Light and Chef Hammel [who's a founding director]. I'm fond of Chef Jason, that cafe and the art world, in general. I thought it would be a great collaboration and he reached out to me. I also work with Gary Comer Youth Center, so I really like working with youth and working on the future of food.
WCT: I was going to say that your bocadillo seems to be a twist on your squash blossom.
Martin: Yeah, and we used acorn squash because it's seasonal. Generally, we get about 80% of our product from Gary Comer, and they grew acorn squash for us for the year. So there's the international focus [on cuisine] but there's also a local-driven quality [regarding] everything from strawberries to duck eggs. It's kind of fun to put some of your past and present into your food.
WCT: The chef at the MCA who prepared the bocadillo that I had said that he prepared a soyrizo version [of the sopressada] at home, and it went well. Would you ever consider doing that with your bocadillo?
Martin: That's amazing. And the cool thing about the bocadillo is that, if we wanted to make it [vegetarian], we'll have plain chèvre goat cheese or rosemary goat cheese. We'll add avocado, with salt and pepper, and we'll put honey on top of the acorn squash. It has the same flavor, but in a different form. We definitely dabble. It's cool that the sandwich can be vegan or vegetarian, too.
WCT: So what's on Bocadillo's winter menu?
Martin: So right now, we have this pork paella; we have squash-and-mushroom croquetas with spinach; we have tomato salad; [and] we have a full salad with squash, winter radish, shaved carrots, sherry vinaigrette and manchego cheese. Right now, we also have a shrimp-and-garlic dish with grits, and it's such a comfort dish. Also, we have cranberries right now instead of peaches.
Life is tough right now; we have war, the economy is down—and I think people eat out of comfort and not just because the food is delicious. This dish is comforting and it speaks to my upbringing every day because I ate rice and grits almost every day. We put the cheesy grits on the bottom and pour some of the pot liquor around the grits; we create this really beautiful sauce.
WCT: Since we talked about the past and present, what's in the future for you? What projects are you working on?
Martin: I'm working on this partnership with the MCA. I'm working on recipes at Bocadillo and I'm working on expanding my program here although it's hard; we have a down economy, it's hard to find staff and everything's really expensive. I want to open a Bocadillo shop and do some pop-ups outside of my space.
I also might partner with one of my coffee shop friends and whip up some pastries for his place in West Town. I want to increase the revenue stream and put Bocadillo Market in other neighborhoods in ways without taking on more overhead. This economy is definitely not for the kind-hearted.
More information about Bocadillo Market, 2342 N. Clark St., is at www.bocadillomarket.com/ .
More reviews, interviews and Chicago restaurant news are at future3733.substack.com .
