Frontier
Frontier is a place that definitely lives up to its name—offering items that might make Daniel Boone feel comfortable, down to the antler chandeliers and the stuffed bear at the bar. ( There are also modern conveniences, such as the large-screen televisions for sports fans. )
For starters, this is one of the few restaurants in Chicago where patrons can enjoy an entire house-smoked pig, lamb, goat or wild boar, complete with a first course and sides. ( Contact the Frontier in advance of this order, which serves eight to 12 people. ) Executive Chef Brian Jupiter, originally from New Orleans, said that he does about eight to 10 each week, and each takes about eight hours.
Second, if you're a carnivore, this is your place—as if the whole smoked-animal option didn't let you know. Although chef Brian Jupiter told Savor that there would be salads for summer ( and there are an heirloom tomato and Caesar salads ) , the vast majority of the dishes involve everything from guinea hen to duck to, of course, beef. Even the majority of the "To Graze" items on the menu are meat dishes, although there are also gnocchi and hummus.
( Note: The bits about the meat are not complaints, by the way. They are just advice for vegetarians and vegans. )
Start things off with the lollipop wings and duck tacos, which are both quite tasty. The deviled eggs are also a step above the standard fare.
However, for me, nothing surpasses the venison cheesesteak, which is on par with the hallowed cheesesteaks in Philly. The meat interacted with the cipollini onion jam, grilled peppers and Monterey Jack cheese beautifully. The pulled boar sandwich is also a winner.
While the chef said that the grilled redfish is his favorite dish to cook. However, for me, this item was the only misstep during the entire meal, as the confit and spices seemed to overwhelm the fish—although my dining partner seemed to love it. However, the shrimp-and-corn grits on the side were absolutely wonderful.
Overall, I would highly recommend Frontier. I plan on returning to experience dishes such as blackberry BBQ rabbit and the pan-roasted wild striped bass, which comes with baby leeks, crayfish and hearts of palm. Also, tasty items on the weekend menu ( 9 a.m.-3 p.m. ) include fried rabbit and waffles; toffee pancakes; and quiche with roasted shitake mushrooms, tomato, brie and mixed greens.
Also, keep in mind that Frontier ( which is about six months old ) is greeting summer head-on with an expansive outdoor patio. With an upstairs area and the patio, Jupiter and General Manager Charlie Barone said that the place can cater to mulitple crowds at once. The upstairs, in fact, can accommodate everything from parties to business meetings, complete with large projection screens.
By the way, when winter returns ( and it will sooner than you think ) , Frontier will warm things with fireplaces—and, no doubt, fantastic comfort food.
Among other things, Frontier, 1072 N. Milwaukee, is having an Oyster Fest July 31-Aug. 7. See www.thefrontierchicago.com .
"Game" time for Gioco
Gioco ( which means "game" in Italian ) is a rustic place with incredibly friendly service ( ask for J.P. ) and Executive Chef Danny Sweis' top-notch food.
My dining companion and I started with a soup with corn, asparagus and cauliflower. It was solid fare ( and I knew I was eating healthily ) , but the best was yet to come.
We then tried the grilled calamari ( with arugula, tomato, white bean, red onion, olive and capers ) and the buratta & caponata crostini. The calamari had an undeniable peppery kick while by friend raved over the crostini.
As for the entree, my friend went for the grilled swordfish, which he had never tried. The swordfish came with artichoke, fennel, olive and pistachio—and worked. I decided to go the pappardelle with red wine-braised wild boar, pecorino and pine nuts. For me, this was the best part of the meal; the boar was incredibly tender and tasty. Other entree options include fettuccine, rigatoni, tortellini ( with spinach, ricotta and tomato brown butter ) , salmon, ribeye and duck breast, among others.
However, anyone who goes here should not leave without dessert. We tried three items ( at J.P.'s insistence ) : grilled peaches with marscapone, a ricotta tart and chocolate cake with ice cream. No one could make a misstep with any of these items.
Gioco, which has been around for 11 years, is located in an historic building built in 1890 and is one of the few remaining buildings in Chicago from that era. No doubt that contributes to the unmistakable rustic Italian/jazz-house look of the restaurant.
Gioco is at 1312 S. Wabash; see www.GiocoRestaurant.com .
Dining news:
—Mini-rave: Chicago q restaurant may be known for its briskets, but it's greenery has a great rep, too. If you can, please try the spinach/arugula salad with tomato, cantaloupe and pork belly. It may sound strange at first, but the flavors of the ingredients play off each other beautifully. Chef/Partner Lee Ann Whippen has created a grilled asparagus with shaved Parmesan as well as a strawberry rhubarb cobbler; see www.chicagoqrestaurant.com .
—The Taste of Andersonville Dinner Crawl will take place Wed., Aug. 17, 6-9 p.m. It features selections from more than 20 restaurants in Chicago's Andersonville neighborhood. Patrons can choose between the SALT route and the PEPPER route—or people can opt for both routes with THE WHOLE ENCHILADA. Tickets are $25 for either route in advance, $30 at the door. THE WHOLE ENCHILADA is $40 in advance, $50 at the door. Space is limited. Order tickets at www.andersonville.org .
—LUXBAR celebrates summer with local Farmer's Market Bellinis. LUXBAR's brunch features sweet and savory specialties like House-made Pecan Sticky Buns ( $4 ) and Croissants ( $3 ) , house-cured Gravlox Eggs Benedict ( $10.50 ) , Gibsons Marinated USDA Prime Skirt Steak and Eggs ( $14 ) and brunch standards like house-made Granola with dried fruit and milk. See www.luxbar.com .
—Chicagoans are invited to celebrate National Panini Month ( August ) in style at the Lobby Lounge located in ShowPlace Icon Theatre. Guests can enjoy an array of signature panini from the Lobby Lounge menu for $10 each including: the Italian, Chicken, Portabello and more. The theatre is at 150 W. Roosevelt.
—On the "Runway": Chicagoans can enjoy the season-nine premiere of Project Runway at Cityscape Bar's viewing party on Thursday, July 28, at 8 p.m. at 350 W. Mart Center Dr. ( Holiday Inn Mart Plaza, 15th floor ) . All themed martinis, such as the "Make It Work," are $6 each. See www.CityscapeBar.com .
Send all restaurant-related news, etc. to Andrew@WindyCityMediaGroup.com .
