Our Nation's Capital is the setting for political pronouncements and protest marches, including demonstrations for LBGT rights. And we see them set amidst the spectacle of great and imposing monuments: in front of the U.S. Capitol, or passing the White House, in front of the reflecting pool before the Lincoln Memorial. This is the public image of Washington, D.C.: formidable and imperial. But, in fact, most of Washington lies beyond the monuments and museums.
Du Pont Circle
D.C., or "the District" as it is known locally, has many and varied neighborhoods. Let's take a look at Du Pont Circle. Du Pont Circle has been a Les-Bi-Gay community for a good number of years. This neighborhood is a veritable LGBT cultural cornucopia. Du Pont Circle is part of Washington's Embassy district, with great walks in front of ambassador's homes and chancelleries, and a cadre of small, but distinct and notable museums. The Phillips Collection, for example, hosts an outstanding French Impressionist Collection including Renoir's "The Boating Party." Just a few blocks away is Washington's only presidential museum, the Woodrow Wilson House; and almost next door is the fascinating Textile Museum with its magnificent carpets and woven textiles from all over the world.
One of the icons of Du Pont Circle is Lambda Rising Bookstore at 1625 Connecticut Avenue. This is the flagship of an outstanding fleet of LBGT bookstores. They frequently have presentations by LGBT authors. For example, on my recent trip, Tristan Taormino and Friends made a presentation: "Best of Lesbian Erotica."
Due west of Du Pont Circle on P Street you cross a bridge over a vast chasm known as Rock Creek Park. There, on a nice day, you may join compatriots to take in the sun at the grassy knoll known as the P Street beach ( D.C.'s in-town "gay beach" ) . Just east of Du Pont Circle is the fascinating multi-cultural Adams-Morgan neighborhood, with a host of great ethnic eateries and shops; and the revived U Street Corridor, D.C.'s newest nightlife center.
Georgetown
Another great neighborhood, the historic neighborhood of Georgetown, is not exactly LBGT-oriented in terms of stores and nightlife. However, anyone ( can you say gay man? ) interested in colonial architecture will have a field day on this area's side streets. One is transported to a time 200 years ago, gaping at fabulous examples of Georgian and Federal style architecture. Some of these wonderful places such as Dumbarton Oaks, Dumbarton House, Tudor Place, and their gardens are open to the public.
Holocaust Museum
Washington is, of course, a city of museums. But a must-see, especially for lesbians and gays, is the U. S. Holocaust Memorial Museum. It honors all victims of the Holocaust: Jewish, disabled, mentally handicapped, gypsy, and homosexual. Look for memorabilia such as ID cards of pink-triangle-wearing inmates. There is a "Homosexuals in the Holocaust" account, and the last exhibit has an hour-long film entitled "testimony" in which survivors, including gays, give testimony of their horror.
There is a tile from the Wall of Remembrance that states "Remember Gay Victims." And the Museum has sponsored special events including a gay Holocaust survivor from Berlin who spoke about his experiences. Further information on gays and the Holocaust is available in the Museum's Library. The Holocaust museum is free, but requires advance reservations or passes. For more information visit: www.ushmm.org
Places to stay,
things to do
There are a number of accommodations that cater to the LBGT community, including the upscale Jury's Washington, right at Du Pont Circle. More moderately placed is the nearby art deco Carlyle Suites Hotel. Then there is the Monaco in the heart of downtown. With the great influx of visitors, the one thing D.C. does not lack is accommodations in every price range. You'll also find big hotels, for smaller prices, across the Potomac in Crystal City, Va.
There are almost 30 gay/lesbian bars in the D.C. area. Many of them, including the Fireplace and Mr. P's, are in Du Pont Circle. In locating a bar or other establishment, it's important to remember that D.C. is divided into quadrants, NE, NW, SE, and SW. The addresses can be quite far apart. So plan a bar tour carefully with a D.C. map. For information on Washington's nightlife pick up a copy of the Washington Blade, the leading LBGT paper, or access information at www.washblade.com
Washington, D.C., also has many sophisticated dining spots. Café Luna on P Street between 16th and 17th Streets is a very convivial and well-priced Italian bistro. Literally atop Café Luna, for a change of pace, is Skewers for Middle Eastern fare. For Thai, try Sala Thai at 20th and P Street. Near 13th and U Streets, "Spaghetti" is well worth a spooling.
While Washington may lack the "muscle" of Chicago's theater scene, this is a very fine, multi-faceted theater town. For example, summer 2002 was a garden of Stephen Sondheim delights at the Kennedy Center. And as in Chicago, theater runs the gamut of venues from the larger downtown houses, to repertory, to local companies.
Out and about
Getting around D.C. is a cinch. There is an excellent underground Metro system that serves the entire area with clean, quiet subway trains. There is also a bus system that is quite reliable. If you are energetic, walking is just dandy--make sure your feet and shoes cooperate. There is also Tourmobile Sightseeing. Taxis are reasonably priced, but beware: They charge by zones rather than miles. And I've heard of folks actually hiring a car and driver for the day without having to take out a second mortgage. Then there is always the god, old standby of renting a car.
The Metro will take you to Arlington National Cemetery and the Pentagon. But for longer excursions, a car would be good. It's just a short trip to George Washington's home at nearby Mt. Vernon. Longer trips, but still doable in a day, are the Civil War battlefield and cemetery at Gettysburg; Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's homestead; Harper's Ferry, West Virginia; the Naval Academy at Annapolis, Md.; and the Civil War battlefield at Fredericksburg, Va. It's also not far, though you probably will want an over night stay. in stalwart Baltimore, Rehoboth Beach ( Washington's Saugatuck ) , or historic Williamsburg, Va.
Late spring and fall are wonderful times to visit. There are often very competitive airfares between Chicago and the D.C. area. Not just government, but tourism is a very important part of this area's economy, especially since 9/11--and visitors are highly encouraged.
For more on what's doing, visit www.washington.org
Your travel writer: Richard S. Klein is a Travel Consultant at Aqua Terra Travel, 1640 N. Wells St. in Chicago. Aqua Terra is owned by Cynthia A. Marquard and Ted Lally. You may reach Richard, Cynthia, or Ted at 312-787-2400 or 1-800-44-ENVOY. Visit their Web site at www.aquaterratravel.com .
