I wasn't quite sure what to expect from W Lakeshore's Current ( 680 N. Lake Shore Dr.; www.wchicago-lakeshore.com/current-chicago-restaurant ) in light of the substantial renovation the hotel has undergonebut what I encountered was one of the best brunches I've had in quite some time.
One server called the decor "Great Gatsby," and that description seems to fit. The look is very sleek and shinyalmost a little bright for someone who might have a hangover. However, all the elements come together beautifully.
Executive Chef Gregory Elliott told me he decided to go with an Italian-focused menu because it's "seasonal" and "simple," adding that it "plays to what the customer base wants."
And the customer base will especially want to start things off with the housemade morning bun with orange zest, cardamom and nutmeg ( so good that I also got one to go ). The chicken-fried bacon was an incredibly tasty twist on an item that's popular in Chicago, to say the least.
I'm not usually the biggest fan of too many sweets in the morning, and I thought I'd reached my limit early on with the bun. However, I'm still dreaming about the Nutella-stuffed French toast ( listed under "Dolce," along with items such as crepes and buttermilk pancakes ). Lastly, my dining companion and I tried the house-cured salmon pizza, complete with dill creme fraiche, capers, red onion and a hard-boiled eggand both of us were impressed.
So say goodbye to Wave ( the restaurant that was housed here )and "wave" hello to a new place with incredible offerings. I have been to very few places with items that impressed from beginning to end. I will be stopping by again soon. ( Note: Current is also open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. )
Another restaurant that impresses is French neighborhood bar Bistrot Zinc ( 1131 N. State St.; bistrotzinc.com/index.html ), which brings an air of Paris to Chicago's Gold Coast. This is probably the best French restaurant I've been to since visiting the now-departed Troquet in Ravenswood a while back.
I have passed by this restaurant literally thousands of times ( Bistrot Zinc is 16 years old ) and had gone in only oncefor a short lunch years ago. However, I stayed longer this time ( for dinner ), and my friend and I absolutely loved what we sampled.
I did take a risk doing this culinary research when I tried the specials. Specials are changed constantly, practically guaranteeing that Windy City Times readers will only be able to virtually try certain dishes until they reappear on the menu. However, I had to try at least two of the items: the watermelon-and-feta salad ( with components that played off each other beautifully ) and the duck breast, which was beyond savory.
Although Bistrot Zinc advertises itself as a neighborhood eatery, don't place it in the same category as themed restaurants, sports bars and the like. The fare is decidedly sophisticated, with escargot, West Coast mussels ( which my friend commented were the largest he'd seen ) and baked onion soup, among the appetizers. I see people going on a date or a group of longtime friends dining herebut this is definitely a "no frat boys" zone.
For his entree, my friend got the poulet Grand Mère ( roasted chicken done "grandmother style" )and it was grand, to say the least. The chicken was juicy on its own, but was coupled with a smoky taste courtesy of the bacon served alongside the chicken. Other offerings ( large and small plates ) include Moroccan-spiced vegetable and chickpea stew; pan-friend trout; sauteed calf's liver; and the croque monsieur, a grilled ham-and-Gruyere cheese sandwich.
And, amazingly, as tasty as the appetizers and entrees are, the desserts may be even better. Bistrot Zinc boasts an impressive list of sweet treats, such as the profiteroles with vanilla bean ice cream and bittersweet chocolate sauce. My friend and I also had the gaueau au chocolat ( chocolate cake with espresso caramel sauce and fresh whipped creme ) and millas de Bordeaux ( cherry custard turnover, crème anglaise and caramel sauce ), and we couldn't decide which we liked more.
Chef Tim Kirker has been at Bistrot for eight yearsand obviously knows what he's doing. If you can't go to Paris right away, give this restaurant a chance.