I recently visited two steakhouses in two very different areas—Chicago's River North area and the suburb of Oak Brook. Although they have very different styles, they each possess a bit of charm.
At the very sleek Chicago Cut Steakhouse ( www.chicagocutsteakhouse.com ) , located at 300 N. LaSalle in Chicago, beef is butchered and dry-aged on site, and you can expect sizeable steaks—at least from what I hear. My dining companion and I actually visited the steakhouse for breakfast, and were not disappointed.
The first thing that let me know that this was no ordinary steakhouse was when our server asked us if we wanted black or white cloth napkins ( to minimize lint ) —a rare and welcome instance, indeed. We were greeted with delicious beignets. In fact, the only misstep during the meal was when my dining partner's oatmeal arrived—it was stone cold. However, that mistake was quickly rectified, complete with profuse apologies. The corned-beef hash I had was sublime, to say the least. ( Other breakfast options range from vanilla challah French toast to prime New York strip and two poached eggs. Dinner choices include steaks, naturally, but also items such as crispy Amish brick chicken and rosemary-crusted Alaskan halibut. )
We also got some insight as to what lunch and dinner guests enjoy—thanks to an iPad. If patrons wish to view a wine list, servers can loan them iPads, and customers can view wines by such categories as vintage and country of origin—yet another instance that proved how different this steakhouse is.
In talking with co-owner Matt Moore, I discovered much more about the restaurant. For example, the gold-leaf ceiling is both decorative and functional ( temperature control ) . Other previously unknown facts include that part of the menu changes seasonally and that the Metropolis coffee is blended specifically for the steakhouse.
What isn't a secret is the view the steakhouse provides. Sitting right next to the Chicago River, there isn't a bad scene in the house. This is a place where you could "kick back" or have the ultimate power lunch. ( Moore said that Mayor Richard Daley has been to the eatery several times already. ) I definitely plan to return.
Incidentally, Moore, ever so charismatic, said that he hasn't "worked a day in [ his ] life. I love what I do." Who can blame him?
Another steakhouse that has its own charm—although it's not quite as upscale as Chicago Cut Steakhouse—is Grotto ( www.grottooakbrook.com ) , located at the Promenade Shopping Center, 3011 Butterfield, Oak Brook.
Kudos go to Executive Chef Abraham Aguirre for putting together a menu that is so varied and tempting that you could go there eight different times and try eight different entrees ( or 10, if you're really daring ) .
However, lunch did not necessarily start smoothly. I don't know if she was distracted, but the hostess stared at my dining partner when asking, "Table for two?"—and continued to avert my gaze even after I answered. Fortunately, changes happened quickly.
Our server, Tom, was quite amiable, and even made jokes about himself. However, it was the food that made the best impression. I ordered a crab-cake sandwich that almost measured up to the ones I grew up on in the Chesapeake Bay area; my dining partner had a Kobe sandwich that was succulent and quite tasty. ( Tom said that his favorite menu item is the Italian-style salmon, which certainly sounded intriguing. )
Grotto is relatively cavernous, compared to some steakhouses. It can accommodate 560 people, according to General Manager Don Lullo—280 in the restaurant, and another 280 in the banquet hall. It also has the biggest deck and one of the largest patios in the suburbs.
By the way, if you think you're going to leave without sampling ( or taking ) a dessert item, you'd be crazy to do so. Grotto has a separate pastry chef who concocts several types of cakes, pies and other desserts.
By the way, as I left I got one other treat: The couple at the next booth wondered what newspaper I wrote for; when I said, "Windy City Times," he responded, "Oh, family!"
Food news:
—GQ Magazine has named Chicago's Longman & Eagle, 2657 N. Kedzie, one of the 10 best new restaurants in the country. Correspondent Alan Richman, in reviewing Longman described the cuisine as "high-end gastropub. Our meal began with an amuse-bouche of raw grouper, an amenity you don't see in many flophouses. A considerable number of dishes were triumphant, including spicy frogs' legs with a blue-cheese dip; smoked sweetbreads; chicken-liver mousse; and a sunny-side-up duck egg with tongue hash and truffle vinaigrette. I'd gladly spend the night if that tongue hash were on the breakfast menu." See www.longmanandeagle.com .
—Grahamwich, the latest venture for award-winning chef and TV personality Graham Elliot, is a new sandwich restaurant located at 615 N. State. Among the sandwiches offered are turkey confit with candied yams, stewed cranberries, field greens, sage mayo on a dinner roll; and smoked whitefish with shredded carrots, salted almonds, raisin chutney, curry aioli on Indian naan. See www.Grahamwich.com .
