PicturedPhilip Earl Johnson as King Henry VIII in the Illinois Shakespeare Festival production of Henry VIII at the Theatre at Ewing in Bloomington, Illinois. Photo by Pete Guither
When theater critics go to see plays, it's usually all about the PLAYS. But the Illinois Shakespeare Festival, now in its 28th season, offers a chance to escape the city for more pastoral environments—a frequent theme in Old Will's plays. The downstate communities of Bloomington and Normal, together encompass the campuses of Illinois State and Illinois Wesleyan universities as well as the Ewing Estate, site of the annual Shakespeare Festival. Though my companions and I were only able to sample a few of the region's pleasures on our recent visit, I asked the stars of this year's Festival for THEIR favorite spots. Among those polled were Philip Earl Johnson, who plays Macbeth and Henry VIII. Roderick Peeples, Twelfth Night's Sir Toby Belch and Henry's Cardinal Wolsey. And Calvin MacLean, taking a busman's holiday from his directing duties to portray Malvolio in Twelfth Night.
WHERE TO STAY. Three hotels near the festival grounds offer packages, priced between $275-$325, consisting of two nights' stay with tickets to two consecutive festival plays and dinner at a nearby restaurant:
The Chateau ( 1601 Jumer Drive, Bloomington ( 309 ) 662-2020 ) is an ornate fairy-tale castle housing a veritable museum of European antiques. Less distracting is the Ramada Inn ( 1219 Holiday Drive, Bloomington ( 309 ) 662-5311 ) . Or you may want to try the Vrooman Mansion ( 701 East Taylor Street, Bloomington ( 309 ) 828-8816 ) . Located in the former Dimmitt's Grove neighborhood, this landmark 1867 estate is now a bed-and-breakfast winning the praise of all three actors.
If you're on a budget, or if you prefer a less structured travel itinerary, the area also features a wide selection of chain hotels and small independent motels, as you would expect of a college town. ( Both Super 8s, for example—at 2 Trader's Circle in Normal, ( 309 ) 454-5858, and at 818 IAA Drive in Bloomington, ( 309 ) 663-2388—are clean, comfortable and convenient )
WHERE TO EAT. Receiving unanimous accolades was Biaggi's Ristorante Italiano ( 1501 North Veteran's Parkway, Bloomington ( 309 ) 661-8622 ) , which also operates a concession in the theater courtyard where patrons may purchase sandwiches and salads. And Jim's Steakhouse ( 2307 East Washington Street, Bloomington ( 309 ) 663-4142 ) provides a hearty meal fit for graduation day.
For less formal dining, Peeples declares the barbecue at the Longhorn Smokehouse, 5 Currency Drive, Bloomington, IL 鵵) 661-0433 the 'best since [ he's ] eaten since living in Texas', while pizza at the Lucca Grill ( 116 East Market Street, Bloomington ( 309 ) 828-7521 ) gets the nod from both Peeples and MacLean. Johnson, however, sends out-of-town visitors to The Caboose ( 608 Seminary Street, Bloomington ( 309 ) 829-7895 ) , a 'home cooking' diner built inside a railway car.
Festival publicist Keri Vermilion steered us to the Crazy Planet Kitchen ( 414 North Main Street, Bloomington ( 309 ) 827-7787 ) , where the lunch menu's crepes with sherry cream sauce made my companions regret waiting until our last day in town to reconnoiter this popular downtown eatery ( operated by a pair of artists whose baby daughter is named 'Matisse' ) . And surrounded by dark municipal buildings at night is The Loft ( 220 East Front Street, Bloomington ( 309 ) 828-8464 ) , a cozy little upstairs bar above a former firehouse, that Vermilion pronounces 'excellent for martinis after the show'.
WHAT TO SEE BESIDES THE PLAY. The Green Show is a free entertainment staged in the theater courtyard an hour before curtain time, usually comprised of a comic parody of the night's bill, in addition to madrigals performed by a strolling quartet ( if you have a favorite song from the period—say, Clement & Bell's 'Flower Of Beauty'—they DO take requests ) . And just adjacent to the courtyard is a Shakespeare Garden providing a quiet corner in which to relax before the show amid such English flowers as can withstand our American summers.
The Davis Mansion was unanimously cited as a must-see attraction. ( For tour information, phone ( 309 ) 828-1084. While you're at it, ask about the tea-parties, too. ) Judge David Davis could have been president, but—on the advice of his wife—decided against a career in national politics, instead leaving that office to his close friend and fellow lawyer, Abraham Lincoln. ( Their correspondence, on loan from the Illinois State Museum, is on special exhibit for the summer ) . But the real experience is the house itself, replete with all the modern conveniences available in 1872, including central heating and plumbing ( with an astounding number of bathrooms ) , a drying room for the laundry and an astonishing variety of furnishings. Whatever we may think of Mr. Davis' statesmanship, we cannot fault Mrs. Davis' decorating taste.
MacLean also recommends the Historical Society exhibit in the old County Courthouse ( 200 North Main Street, Bloomington ( 309 ) 827-0428 ) , while Johnson invites history buffs to take a 'beautiful walk' along the Constitution Trail, a 14-mile hiking path, one branch of which follows the tracks of the now-abandoned Illinois Central Gulf railroad. 'I think downtown Bloomington is a really cool place,' says the latter, ' [ It's ] a great example of a 'big' small-town with architecture and commerce from decades gone by.'
You've seen them in bars all your life, but did you know that since 1937, Beer Nuts have been manufactured by a family-owned and operated business in Bloomington? There are no tours of the plant, sad to say, but the outlet store ( 103 North Robinson Street, Bloomington 1-800-BEERNUTS ) features thirteen kinds of savory peanuts, almonds and cashews ( try the Cajun Crunch ) in addition to souvenirs bearing the familiar company logo.
WHAT TO REMEMBER WHEN VISITING. 'Bring a jacket!' chorused all questioned. With the abundance of surrounding foliage, the outdoor theater can get chilly in the evening. Better yet, they counsel, bring a range of clothing from shorts-and-tees to early-autumn slacks and sweaters 'because you never know'.
'Remember that Main Street runs NORTH and Center Street runs SOUTH!' proclaimed my driving companion. A single 'Main Street' was once enough for traffic in the Bloomington-Normal area, but as the population grew, Center Street, one block west, was commandeered to create a boulevard. And in Bloomington's business district, there are TWO one-way northbound streets—Main and East—while Center and Madison streets take you south. 'Don't be afraid to follow the cars in front of you—they're probably going where you're going.'
'Wear insect repellent if you attract mosquitoes.' says MacLean, a warning echoed by Vermilion ( 'Bug spray is probably a good idea' ) . Johnson also cautions, 'Although [ the climate ] is typically warm and temperate, I would bring an umbrella.' And another insider, who asks not to be named, advises, 'Bring a book to read in your hotel room in case none of this appeals to you.' If you want to be a lazybones, no one can stop you—but you'll miss a lot of fun.
For information on the Illinois Shakespeare Festival, phone ( 309 ) 438-8110 or log onto www.thefestival.org .
