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WINDYCITYMEDIAGROUP

SAVOR Lunch at Lure Fishbar; restaurant fire and other news
by Andrew Davis
2023-07-23


The last time I dined at Lure Fishbar ( Article Link Here ; was shortly after the River North spot opened.

The dinner dishes were mostly good (with one being great), but it was apparent back in 2021 (when restaurants had COVID protocols) that some kinks needed to be worked out.

Fast-forward a couple years—when we're somewhat back to "normal" life—and Lure has changed in some ways.

One of them is cost. Now don't get me wrong: Some items are a tad pricy, such as a $23 burger or a $37 miso-glazed salmon. However, most items are reasonable and there's even a "Power Lunch" during 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. that provides an app/entree or entree/dessert combo for $25 (for specific dishes).

And the overall quality of the offerings has improved.

We started with deviled eggs with American caviar, with the salty burst from the fish eggs providing a nice addition and making for a very pleasant amuse bouche. Then, my dining companion and I were surprised with hellfire (spicy tuna, tempura flake, bruleed tuna and kimchi sauce) and summer hand rolls. The latter was delightful but, given my low spice tolerance, I stayed away from the hellfire roll—although my friend thoroughly enjoyed it.

My lobster mac 'n cheese was pretty enjoyable—and there was plenty of crustacean meat in the dish. (Some places can skimp on that.) Also, we both liked the fish 'n chips. (On a scale of one to The Dearborn, it definitely approached the latter.) And the branzino St. Tropez (with whipped potatoes, spinach, capers and citrus brown butter) was probably the highlight for me, with all of the elements meshing together very smoothly.

As for desserts, options include berry bread pudding, deep-dish cookies, warm baked chocolate brownies (all served with ice cream) and ice-cream sandwiches. It's in this category where Lure might let down some, as the offerings are more on the simplistic side (although they're still decadent). However, the ice-cream sandwiches (basically circular items cut in half) still made for a somewhat indulgent palate-cleanser.

Now don't think these are the only culinary offerings at Lure. Other items include various oysters, buffalo-chicken lollipops, shrimp po'boys, crab cakes and much more.

And if you have time, visit the adjoining 21c Museum Hotel and take in the artwork. Call the overall concept "lunch and a show."

Note: This visit was arranged.

—Rewired Pizza Cafe & Bar—an Edgewater spot near Lickity Split that I've visited on many occasions, in part because of affable owner Daniel Barat and also because of its great food—suffered a two-alarm fire last week.

A GoFundMe page has been set up by close friend Lindsey Anderson (who owns Uvae and the upcoming lakefront spot Aura) to provide financial assistance for the 18 employees that are suddenly without incomes. Any contribution is welcome.

—Popular spot The Dearborn will also be at O'Hare Airport.

An outpost of the Loop restaurant is coming to the airport's newly expanded Terminal 5. The original establishment, located in Chicago's iconic theater district, was opened in 2016 by Amy and Clodagh Lawless. (Their brother, Jean-Paul, is a host there.) The Terminal 5 restaurant, expected to open in the first half of 2024, is The Dearborn's first location in an airport.

Yes, the award-winning fish 'n chips will be there. However, there will also be Scottish egg, fried chicken, salads, soup, travel-ready items and more.

—The team at the Albert Chicago (228 E. Ontario St.)—located at Hotel EMC2 in downtown Chicago and another of my faves—has announced an Italian market pop-up event.

The pop-up will take place Thursday, July 27 at 4-8 p.m. on the restaurant's upper terrace, providing even more opportunities to make memories while enjoying food and drink inspired by Executive Chef Steve Chiappetti's Calabrian heritage.

Guests will find a selection of Italian wines; Sicilian olive oils; rare balsamic vinegars from Modena; aged cheeses and charcuterie; and farm-fresh produce from Chef Chiappetti's go-to Midwestern farmers. The cost is $65; to purchase tickets, visit Website Link Here .

—Chicago's Magnificent Mile is getting an addition this summer, as The Evie, 535 N. Michigan Ave., is opening to the public on Monday, July 24.

Created by Executive Chef Phil Rubino, The Evie's menu will spotlight elevated takes on American classics, focusing on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Diners will be able to enjoy dishes like the slow-roasted signature prime rib dip, butter-poached lobster roll, chili honey-glazed salmon, summer watermelon salad and various sushi rolls (including the Lobster Volcano and Vegi Maki varieties).

The 7,100-square-foot space featuring a 125-guest dining room, open concept kitchen and bar space has been reimagined by Aida Napoles—owner of interior design studio AGN Design—in collaboration with Chicago-based creatives, artists, fabricators and craft workers.

The Evie will be open for lunch and dinner service from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations can be made through OpenTable. For more information, visit eviechicago.com.

—British spot Owen & Engine, 2700 N. Western Ave., will be closing after Tuesday, Aug. 29, per an Instagram post.

Chef/owner Bo Fowler said, "Owen & Engine was my dream restaurant, a place where I was truly happy. We were not glamorous, but hopefully delicious—and the team took so much pride in making every bun, sausage, or piece of paneer cheese by hand."

Fowler added that he is closing the 14-year-old spot "based on my family's needs."

The restaurant offers venison tartare, bubble and squeak, date glaze roasted bone marrow, burgers and much more. Get there while you can.

—Sunda New Asian, 110 W. Illinois St., has a summer happy hour of 4-6 p.m. on Mondays through Fridays—and people will probably like some of the prices, too.

The spot is offering $6 dishes bar bites (including shishito peppers, Seoul wings, adobo pork-belly bites and more), $6 sushi hand rolls, $8 cocktails (Yuzu Moscow Mules), $6 wine (red and white) and $14 sake cans.

More items can be found at future3733.substack.com.


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