Astronomical clock. The Dancing House (right) is just one of several attractions in Prague._______
Prague is a must for anyone lusting after the exquisitely historic feel of Olde Europe. It is a walking and wandering type of place. Prague is arguably one of the most beautiful cities in Europe—or anywhere else in the world. Its superb architecture is magnificently preserved. Heck, even the sewer covers sport the Czech coat of arms. The historic Prague is much more than a living museum, however. After the fall of Communism, Prague shook off its Soviet-dominated past and awakened to the currents of the 21st century.
The GLBT scene
Prague has a most active 21st-century gay and lesbian scene. While not a mecca in the sense of Amsterdam or Berlin, more and more is available for the gay and lesbian traveler. There are more than 20 gay/lesbian bars, from small and intimate pubs to large entertainment complexes. Some have an all-male clientele, others welcome lesbians and still others have gay and straight patrons. Friends Bar, for men, is one of the oldest and most famous gay venues in Prague. For a current listing of friendly venues, LGBT travelers should check out the Prague Gay Guide at prague.gayguide.net or the Web site www.praguegaycity.com .
Gay guided tours with private car and guide can also be arranged. There are tours not only of Prague but also of the picturesque towns and castles that grace the Czech countryside.
Museums and Culture in the City
There is no shortage of fine museums, with more than a dozen devoted to a range of subjects from art to technology. Being the capital of the Czech Republic, the city houses the National Museum, which covers many aspects of science and history, and the Czech Museum of Fine Arts. Art nouveau lovers will cherish the Mucha Museum that features the work of Alphonse Mucha. For music lovers, there is the Antonin Dvorak Museum. There is the even the Museum of Communism, which shows the rise and fall of the movement in the Czech Republic, including the ill-fated 'Prague Spring.'
The National Theater hosts concerts by Prague's two symphony orchestras. Classical music and ballet performances are everywhere in the city and there are even puppet shows that perform Don Giovanni! Performances are often subsidized, so you can frequently get fairly cheap seats.
The City as Museum
Prague as a city presents itself as an open-air museum. Compared with Berlin and its dramatic modern architecture, Prague is more akin to Grandma's attic. This is definitely NOT a frou-frou free zone, though. Seriously, this is an entrancing city crisscrossed with warrens of the baroque and medieval. Throw in remainders of Stalinesque modern apartment blocks, and you'll get the picture. Be prepared to be sidetracked. The city consists of several distinct sections, such as the fabled Mala Strana district, which has a palpable Left Bank feel.
The most popular architectural site in the city is Prague Castle. Built in the 9th century as a wooden and earthwork structure, it morphed into its present form in the 18th century. It has long been the official seat of Czech rulers from kings to the current president.
Wander down from the castle on narrow Nerudova Street to the picturesque Lesser Town, where time seems to stand still. Marvel at buildings that date back to the 1200s and 1300s. Then, enjoy a stroll across the Charles Bridge—festooned with statues of saints, apostles and popes—which connects Lesser Town to Old Town.
Medieval Charles Street leads from the bridge into Old Town and the Old Town Square. Among the many places to check out in the Old Town is the Power Keg Tower that housed munitions in another age. We can't emphasize enough the fantastic baroque and rococo architecture that looms everywhere. Don't miss the Astronomical Clock, with its curious pop-outs of apostles every hour on the hour, that graces the Old Town Hall.
Jewish Quarter
The Old Jewish Quarter is a must. The Nazis actually 'preserved' the Jewish Quarter in order to make a 'living museum of a vanished race.' You will see several historic Jewish houses of worship as well as the Old Jewish Cemetery, where up to a dozen bodies are buried one atop another.
The writer Franz Kafka wandered the streets of the Jewish Quarter and occasionally attended one of the synagogues there. Another 'literary figure' associated with the quarter is the Golem of Prague. As the story goes, this scary creature, actually a lump of clay that came alive, was created in the 1500s by a rabbi named Judah Loew. One Sabbath, the Golem got loose and ran wild in the Old-New Synagogue, but the rabbi got the situation under control before things got totally out of hand.
Wander the Countryside
Wander out of town! Not only are there more castles in the surrounding countryside, there are also spas. The Czech Republic has long been known as a place to take the waters. There are scores of spas in little towns all over the country.
One of the most famous spa towns in the world is Carlsbad Spa or Karlovy Vary. Some of the greatest figures in European history soaked in the hot mineral baths, including Mozart, Beethoven, Goethe, Chopin and Peter the Great. If you don't want to stay overnight at one of the luxury hotels, you can take a gay day trip by car, since the spa is about 80 miles from Prague.
The banks of the Elbe River are a great place to wander. For example, those coming to Prague via train from Berlin are in for a treat. The tracks follow the Elbe River with its beautiful pastoral scenes and limestone cliffs. The rock along the Elbe at this point could easily be mistaken for the rock along Germany's Rhine River where the Lorelei, the legendary singing siren, lured sailors to their death.
Shopping is not to be overlooked in either Prague or the countryside. There are many boutiques with trendy fashion, and beautiful glassware is a specialty of the Czech Republic.
Eating and Sleeping
People tend to eat earlier here. In fact, sometimes it's hard to find a place open after 8:00 or 8:30 p.m. Food is hearty, rather than refined. You might want to begin your evening with a cocktail and dinner at the Hofmeister hotel, where the walls are decorated with drawings in the Al Hirschfield mode that remind one of New York's Sardi's, and where James Joyce, Charlie Chaplain, Salvador Dali and gay artist/filmmaker Jean Cocteau once hung out.
Don't shy away from the food stalls. Some of them offer delicious turnovers with sauerkraut and cheese.
While Prague does not have an exclusively gay restaurant, Restaurant Petrinske terasy, in the middle of the Petrin Hill ( with the Prague Eiffel Tower on top ) is gay-owned, as is Restaurant U Kapra in Zatecka Street. Also, check out the quaint restaurants on the charming islands by the Charles Bridge.
After dining and perhaps enjoying some GLBT nightlife, you can turn in for the night at any kind of accommodation your heart or budget desires. There are gay or gay-friendly apartments available in the center of town. Some accommodate up to 10 people and are great for groups.
There are numerous fine mainstream hotels, also. In addition to the Hofmeister, five-star hotels we like include Le Palais, which has magnificent accommodations. It is a 20-minute walk from the center of Prague and is housed in an old baronial palace. It has a state-of-the-art fitness center and a high-quality spa, along with a splurge-worthy dining room. Buffet breakfast is included.
Hotel Josef, with its minimalist design in contrast to baroque and art nouveau Prague, is also a worthy candidate. More moderately priced accommodations include the Best Western Kinsky Garden, which is located near the charming Mala Strana, and the Best Western Meteor Plaza, located in the heart of town.
In a nutshell, Prague is sigh-after-sigh breathtaking and most worthy of the traveler's time, energy and resources.
Richard S. Klein is a travel consultant with Aqua Terra Travel, Inc., 65 E. Wacker. Aqua Terra Travel is owned by Cynthia A, Marquard. Cynthia and Richard can be reached at 312-787-2400 and www.aquaterratravel.com .
