Let's play a word association game. Say 'Palm Springs' to a golfing lesbian, and she is likely to say 'Dinah Shore.' To others, 'Palm Springs' means movie stars, ex-presidents, and other celebrities. It may also mean a playground for the ultra rich. All of the associations ring true, but Palm Springs is a whole lot more. It is a very comfortable place for GLBT folk to vacation—and it can be as affordable and you want it to be.
The Resort Can Make Your Stay
Picking the right place to stay is very important in a resort town like Palm Springs. There are almost 40 gay-owned properties in Palm Springs. They range from the very luxurious to the budget-value properties. Some are clothing-optional, and others are not. The clientele of some are mainly gay men. The clientele of others are mainly women.
Casitas Laquitas is one of two private resorts preferred by women. Like many Palm Springs properties, life centers around a large, inviting pool set in a lush, palm-lined garden. At any time during the day, you will find women relaxing on the cushioned lounge chairs that surround the pool, reading, sunning, sleeping, or dreaming of who knows what. The rooms are attractively decorated in southwest style and have kitchenettes equipped with dinnerware, coffee, and a basket of delicacies for breakfast—any time you get up. Some rooms have fireplaces that are great to curl up near on chilly desert nights. The gate to this little paradise is always locked, making this a place where women can feel safe and comfortable.
The other place frequented by women is Queen of Hearts. Every unit has a full kitchen and a private back patio for a romantic cocktail at night or coffee in your P.J.'s in the morning.
There are a number of very upscale properties that are preferred by men. The Hacienda on Warm Sands is one of the finest in Palm Springs. In fact, Out & About magazine named it one of the 10 best gay resorts in the world. One of the wonderful touches is a 'pillow menu' offering seven different kinds of pillows that the weary traveler may pick from.
East Canyon Hotel and Spa prides itself on not only being a beautiful property but on providing guests a beautiful experience. The resort has a fully licensed spa where gentlemen get wraps, facials, and deep massage.
The Triangle Inn is a great example of Mid-Century Modern architecture and décor (a Palm Springs term for 1950s). The Inn was originally built as a stylish 1950s motel, then was reinvented as rental apartments before being upgraded and beautifully restored by the present owners. As a result, it features all suites with kitchens. The central gathering place on the property is a covered patio area and pool.
Gay/lesbian families take note: The GLBT resorts are really not for children. You will be much happier at a welcoming, larger hotel or resort.
Breakfast Treat
Skip the continental breakfast at your hotel or guesthouse at least one morning and head downtown for breakfast outdoors at More Than A Mouthful Café—as seen on The Food Network. The menu features delicious and unusual dishes. Even the usual breakfasts have an unusual flair. For example, the corned beef hash is really homemade. They also make their own breakfast sausages with low-fat pork.
Dining and Nightlife
Of course, in the southwestern desert you expect Mexican food. And there are several good Mexican restaurants. One of our favorites is El Mirasol. Their food is great, and on any given night you will be surrounded by GLBT diners.
Wang's in the Desert is a Pan Asiatic dining experience. The décor can only be described as Asian serenity. A Buddha meditates over a stream that runs right through the dining area. But it is the flavor of the sauces and the quality of the meat and produce that sets Wang's apart. We ordered some of our favorites—Mongolian beef and Kung Pao Shrimp. These were no ordinary dishes, however. They were the best Mongolian beef and Kung Pao Shrimp we have ever tasted. Wang's is not a gay restaurant, but it is definitively gay friendly. We looked around at other diners and estimated that 70 to 75 percent of them were gay.
Spencer's is the place to see and be seen in Palm Springs. It is located at the tennis club and draws a tony crowd. A valet will park your car for merely a gratuity, and then you may dine either indoors or out. This is one place where you are most likely to see the rich and famous. Consider having lunch there. It's really lovely.
Blame it on Midnight is an all-gay restaurant for both men and women located in an unlikely looking place—a corporate office center. There is no street parking, but plenty of free parking in an indoor garage around back. The décor is just plain fun, with lots of things hanging from the ceiling to marvel at. The food is excellent, and any GLBT person can feel completely at ease here.
Bars abound, both in Palm Springs and in Cathedral City just up the road a bit. There are no specifically lesbian bars in Palm Springs, but everyone goes to Toucan Tiki Lounge to dance and see the go-go dancers on Tuesday nights. For a listing of bars and clubs and current activities, pick up a copy of The Bottom Line, the Palms Springs area's gay/lesbian news and entertainment magazine.
Taking the Waters for adults
If you want a really unique Palms Springs experience, try Taking the Waters at the Spa Casino Resort and Hotel. The spa is built over a hot spring that natives in the area enjoyed more than 2,000 years ago. The land is owned by Native Americans, and hence, a casino is allowed to operate there. The casino and hotel are just beautiful. And so is the spa.
Upon entering, you are given a locker and issued slippers, towels, and big white fluffy bathrobe. (Don't bother bringing a bathing suit.) There are five stages to the experience of Taking the Waters. First you go into a steam room and sweat. After cooling off by drinking some cold water or ice tea, you go into a sauna for some dry heat. Then you relax and deep breathe in an aromatherapy room. Now you are ready to take the mineral waters. An attendant runs fresh, hot water from the natural spring into an individual tub, sort of like a mini swimming pool. A curtain gives you complete privacy so that you can stretch out and relax in your birthday suit. Afterward, an attendant leads you to the Tranquility Room where soft music plays and aromas play. Shhhh, No talking. You may stay here wrapped in clean white sheets for as long as you wish.
Activities for Gay/Lesbian Families
Palm Springs has places to see and things to do that are perfect for gay/lesbian families on vacation. The Living Desert, a wild animal park and botanical garden built on 1,200 acres, and the Palm Springs Desert Museum, with its collections of American West artwork and natural science exhibits, are great places for adults and kids alike.
Families and friends can hike to the spectacular Indian Canyons area, where the Agua Caliente Indians settled hundreds of years ago around the hot water springs. This land is owned by and sacred to the present-day Indians. Nevertheless, they allow hikers and horseback riders to view the plants, wildlife, rock formations, waterfalls, and Indian artifacts for a small admission fee. Like to see the scenery change really fast? Take a trip up to the 8,500-foot heights of Mt. San Jacinto. The trip itself is very easy—a ride on the Palm Springs Ariel Tramway. During the two-and-one-half-mile trip, the tram passes through five separate ecological zones, each with its own flora and fauna. In the winter months it also crosses climatic zones. Though the weather on the desert floor is warm enough for swimming and sunbathing, at the top of the mountain it can be cold enough and snowy enough for a snowball fight. Plan to stay for lunch at the cafeteria.
Jeep Tours:
Learning Adventure for All
Another uniquely Palm Springs experience is a Desert Adventures trip in a little red, open Jeep. There are several themes to choose from, including ancient native American culture and the scary wonders of the San Andreas Fault, responsible for most of the area's earthquakes. Our excellent and award-winning guide, Morgan, was not only geologically knowledgeable, she was funny and entertaining. No textbook could ever impress a geology lesson on a kid the way this tour can.
So whether you are single, married, or enjoying a family—a rich celebrity or a middle-class queer—you are sure to find that Palm Springs has a perfect vacation experience just for you.
Your travel writer: Cynthia A. Marquard is the owner of Aqua Terra Travel, 65 E Wacker Place, Chicago IL 60601. Cynthia can be reached at (312) 787-2400 or 1-800-443-6869. Visit her Web site at www.aquaterratravel.com .
