Manchester is a city of surprises, as I found out on a recent trip to this English city set some 35 miles from the Irish Sea. The first
surprise was that Manchester is a beautiful city. The mental image one has of Manchester is an industrial town with smoke stacks
dominating the skyline and filling the air with brownish-black pollution. After all, Manchester gained prominence in the 1800s as a
huge industrial center. Cotton mills were the predominant industry, producing 85% of the world's finished cotton goods. Big, grimy
factories lined the Irwell River and horrible slums surrounded the factories. But this was also Manchester's financial heyday, and
many grand buildings were built to store, showcase, and trade cotton. These old buildings had lots of character. They have been
cleaned up and turned into beautiful office buildings, hotels, and such.
Another surprise was that Manchester has much lovely new architecture. The skyline is dotted with cranes building skyscrapers
on the edge of town. Manchester has been called an outdoor architectural museum, with styles ranging from classical Greek to
modern steel-and-glass structures. Older buildings of particular note are the Victorian Gothic-style Town Hall, the Greek-revival Royal
Exchange, now home to a theater, and Manchester Cathedral, built in the 1400s.
Even though Manchester is an inland city, it is a major seaport. Surprise. Manchester is connected to the sea via the Manchester
Ship Canal, which open in 1894.
Manchester is a city of culture—numerous theaters and art galleries, the famous Halle Orchestra, and several public and private
libraries. I visited one private library open to the public that has one of the few bibles with a typographical error. It lists one of the Ten
Commandments as 'Thou shall commit adultery.' Manchester is also home to the world's oldest operating public library.
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Gay-friendly Manchester
Manchester is going through another transformation. The city is making a real effort to encourage GLBT folks to come and visit. In
fact, Manchester hosted this year's International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association convention.
Manchester is proud of its reputation for nurturing liberal causes. It was the birth place of Britain's Labour party, the suffragette
movement, and now has a thriving GLBT community that this year will be hosting Europride, a 10-day festival starting Aug. 15, 2003.
For information on Europride tour packages check out our Web site: www.aquaterratravel/europride.com .
The city has a gay Village, centered on Canal Street. It starts at Princess Street (Yes!) and runs for three blocks, with bars and
restaurants on one side of the street and a narrow canal on the other side. Village establishments spill over onto side streets. The
neighborhood has also become trendy. You'll see lots of straight couples strolling there.
The Village has some mega dance clubs, such as Cruz 101 and Essential. For women, there is Vanilla, a lesbian bar were men
are admitted as guests only. Men looking for a leather bar will find Company, which you enter from an alley.
Manchester is home to Queer Up North, an arts group that produces theater, dance, music, film, live arts, film, cabaret, and
exhibitions that you should check out. (One of the benefits of traveling to an English-speaking country is you can go to the theater and
understand what's going on, usually.)
Mall walking
Manchester is a great place to explore on foot. It has a pedestrian mall that winds past chic shops and beautiful, well-maintained,
old buildings. The mall is also a public gathering place. During my visit, an arts fest for kids was held there, showing kids how to make
mosaics and murals and how to strike drums to a mad dancing beat.
You can follow this pedestrian mall into a more modern part of town that was rebuilt after the bombings of World War II.
Finally, you reach Piccadilly Square, one of the major transportation hubs in Manchester.
Other neighborhoods
On the edge of the downtown is a funky neighborhood called the Northern Quarter where music and clothing stores reign. The
centerpiece of the Northern Quarter is a tall brick building called Afflecks Palace. Huge metal flowers decorate its exterior. Afflecks
Palace is filled with vendors selling clothes, condoms, and vinyl records. This neighborhood is also home for several clubs that
feature live music.
Another area to check out is the Millennium Quarter, a mix of very old and very new. You can see the reflections of pubs dating
from the 1600s in the windows of a dramatic glass shopping center and museum across the street. Close by is Printworks, a huge old
warehouse that has been converted into an entertainment center with bars, dance clubs, and movie theaters.
Manchester even has a thriving Chinatown with many fine restaurants. It's good for a gastronomic change of pace. By the way, the
food I had in Manchester was great. So much for the idea that English food is bland.
Outside Manchester
If you want to see some more of Britain, you are not far from lots of distractions. You can take an Orient Express train excursion
that includes a great dinner and gets you back to your hotel before midnight.
If you are a Beatles fan, you can visit Liverpool, just 30 miles down the road. Liverpool, naturally, has Beatles sights everywhere. If
you are looking for more to see, visit Snowdonia, the largest national park in Wales is just an hour away, or Edinburgh, Scotland,
about 3-1/2 hours away.
It's easy to get to Manchester. From Chicago we have two airlines with nonstop service to Manchester and, with a railroad station
in the airport, the trip downtown is a breeze. Why not see what kind of surprises Manchester holds for you?
Your travel writer: Ted Lally along with Cynthia A. Marquard owns and manages Aqua Terra Travel, 1640 N. Wells St. in Chicago.
Cynthia or Ted can be reached at 312-787-2400 or 1-800-44-ENVOY. Visit www.aquaterratravel.com .
