I don't have many complaints about Chicago, but I do have one big one: Why don't we have any good restaurants on the beach? I'll never understand. We have miles of beautiful sandy beaches and almost no waterfront dining. I can't count Navy Pier because who goes there without an out-of-town visitor?
So, I had high hopes when The Dock opened at Montrose Beach. I spend most of my time at Hollywood Beach, so it took me a while to make it down to The Dock for a toes-in-the-sand meal.
When you sit down at The Dock, you instantly feel like you're on vacation (especially if you go on a weekday afternoon when the sun is high and everyone one else is working). Being able to order cocktails and real food right on the beach is a refreshing change from slyly sipping contraband vodka and eating soggy sandwiches on a blanket in the sand. Plus, the Dock has a huge stage where live bands perform almost every night of the week, creating a fun party atmosphere around dusk.
With the sun on my face and an uncharacteristically gentle breeze blowing off of the lake, I couldn't resist the allure of a fruity beach drink. My waiter steered me away from the rum punch and toward the "Beach Bash," a pink concoction of vodka, rum and amaretto. It's sweet, but drinkable and potent enough to serve its intended purpose — ease you into lakeside relaxation. One of those was enough for me, so I switched to a slightly lighter gin fizz, still pink and beachy, but not quite as sweet.
As much as I whine about Chicago's lack of waterfront dining, I wish I had better news to report about the food at The Dock. If judged it as a concession stand, I'd say The Dock is comfortably above average. But as a restaurant, it might send you running inland in search of a better meal.
I started with the fried calamari, which seemed like a great way to begin a meal by the water and the perfect pairing for a fruity cocktail. Sadly, the basket of fried squid I received was by far the toughest calamari I've ever had the displeasure of chewing. The only thing that saved it from being completely inedible was the flavorful buttermilk batter it was fried in and the tangy chipotle Parmesan aioli dipping sauce (and the fact that I was famished from having skipped lunch that day). Ok, so maybe seafood really is meant to be served in close proximity to the sea. Next time I'll opt for a safer appetizer like chips and guacamole.
For main courses, The Dock has a nice selection of sandwiches, wraps, burgers and tacos. I'll cut to the chase and tell you the best thing to order is a burger. They are made with high-quality grass-fed beef and are served hot and juicy on a pretzel bun. The "Dock Burger" is delightfully gooey with three kinds of cheese (cheddar, Swiss and provolone) melted on top. Caramelized onions and chopped jalapenos add some heat. If you're in the mood for something lighter than a burger, the chicken Caesar wrap is a decent option. A spinach tortilla is packed full of fresh Romaine and tender chunks of marinated chicken. It won't thrill you, but it will fill you up and allow you to throw back another cold beer. All of the entrées are served with generous heaps of French fries that are not exceptional, but tasty enough with a sprinkle of salt.
The fish tacos, made with either marinated or battered Great Lakes white fish, sound mighty tempting when sitting on the shore of a Great Lake. Sadly, eating local doesn't always pay off. The nicest thing I can say about these tacos is that they were edible. The worst thing I can say is that the tough, overcooked fish tasted like chicken, and not in a good way. There are many better fish tacos to be had in Chicago, so take a pass on these.
I really wanted to love the food at The Dock, but it simply didn't deliver — and I didn't show up expecting a five-star meal. That said, I will be back because, well, location, location, location. Sitting on the beach with a cocktail in hand is one of Chicago's finer pleasures, and for me, it will never get old. So, if I have to endure some ho-hum food, then so be it. Now, I know not to come on an empty stomach, and if I do get hungry, to go straight for a burger.
The Dock at Montrose Beach is located 200 W. Montrose Harbor Dr.; call 773-704-8435 or visit www.thedockatmontrosebeach.com .
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