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  WINDY CITY TIMES

Taste
by BILL ST. JOHN
2004-02-11

This article shared 1549 times since Wed Feb 11, 2004
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With that nip in the air, it's time to absolutely, finally, decisively retire the white wine.

That inner glow will come by way of something big and red. And there's no better hearth-in-the-bottle than Amarone.

In Italy's northeast district of Veneto, winemakers in the Valpolicella region save the ripest bunches of grapes to make Amarone. They lay the bunches on flat wood slats, in huge airy rooms, for five months following the autumn harvest. The grape bunches shrivel up and begin to 'raisinate,' concentrating both their sugars and character.

Then they are crushed and made into wine, usually at the end of January of the following year. (Right now, the 2003 Amarone's being made. Wines take their vintage dates from the year the grapes are harvested.)

Because of the concentrated sugars, the wine is high in alcohol (between 15%-16%), powerfully flavored, yet softly textured, rich and luxuriant.

Its finish is slightly bitter (amaro, in Italian), hence its name, Amarone: 'the big bitter one.'

The Italians call Amarone a 'wine of meditation,' that is, a wine to sip after a meal. Because of its richness and depth, Amarone is not teamed easily with food.

However, Burton Anderson, the American-born, best-known author on Italian wines says, ''I think Amarone is very good with a big game dish like venison. I've even had it with sea bass, branzino, cooked in the oven with some Amarone.

'Certain cheeses go well with it,' adds Anderson, 'but they shouldn't be too ripe or strong: Grana Padano is good, Parmigiano-Reggiano is better; and it goes well with Asiago.'

Its strength allows Amarone to age well, too. When it is five or six years old, Amarone's youthful power mellows. As such, it is a fine alternative to older, tawny ports—much the same punch, but without the sweetness.

Amarone is more popular in this country than in its native land. Little is made, in comparison to regular Valpolicella production, and what is, the Italians tend to save for special occasions.

'Amarone is considered something maybe you drink once every five years,' says Anderson. 'Modern Italians are afraid of alcohol. They are diet conscious people and won't touch the stuff.'

Red wines with stuffing, however, hardly put off Americans. Many Italian restaurants in the U.S. now list one or two Amarones along with their selection of Barolos and Barbarescos.

Anderson's advice about Amarone with game meat is well taken. It also pairs well with buffalo steaks, hearty roasts of lamb or beef or herb-scented and tomato-laden preparations of chicken, pork or veal.

Amarone is for neither the faint of heart nor wallet, but some producers are near sure bets.

The 1999 Masi Amarone Costasera ($40) is named after a vineyard that faces the evening (sera) sun, gaining the last few moments of grape-ripening warmth each day. It brings scents of dried fruits and ripe plums to the nose, gobs of well-developed fruit flavors and can't-feel-'em tannins.

The 1999 Allegrini Amarone Classico ($67), while expensive, is a wine that can be enjoyed in small amounts. It's ultra-typical of Amarone—dark, full of raisin-y character, even tarry—with fat, puffy tannins and a finish that lasts as long as you care to pay attention.

One of my favorite 'baby Amarones' is the 2000 Cesari Mara Ripasso ($13), a Valpolicella in all aspects like a regular Valpolicella, but one that also 'passes again' (ripasso) through a second fermentation over the fermented leftovers—grape skins, pulp, spent yeast—of an Amarone for added, strength, depth and character. It's a delicious wine.

Find high-speed 'net deals—comparison-shop your local providers here. g.msn.com/8HMAENUS/2737??PS=


This article shared 1549 times since Wed Feb 11, 2004
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