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  WINDY CITY TIMES

Taste
Food For Grown Ups
by LEE GERSTEIN
2003-02-19

This article shared 1381 times since Wed Feb 19, 2003
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When I was a teenager, my family took one last big trip together to Mexico. We started in Puerta Vallarta and ended up in Mexico City. Dining in Puerta Vallarta was notable for the leisure attitude afforded drinkers of all ages. My parents consented, and after huddling, decided I try a screwdriver.

It was strong, and my parents suggested I not finish the whole thing. But, I just can't leave anything on my plate, or, in this, case, couldn't leave anything in my glass. When we got to Mexico City, I was ready to try more new things. Between teenage fits of melancholy, I went with my mom, dad, and sister to a rooftop buffet, where the specialty was chicken in a mole sauce. We'd read the guide books, and knew that mole is made from chocolate. And, sure enough, the big chicken breast I put on my plate was covered in a deep brown sauce, a bit grayer than plain chocolate.

My memory tells me that my sister was quite sensible, and just plain refused to put a piece of the chicken on her plate, and she probably had a lovely meal. As soon as the rest of us, however, took our first bites of this specialty, it was clear that, while the others in my family would make a go of it, I would be breaking a lifelong rule, and leaving food on my plate—a lot of food. Turns out that I really don't love everything chocolate, and now prefer it in dessert, where it really belongs.

Dessert For The Main Course

Even the chocolate breads at Red Hen bakery on Milwaukee Avenue in Wicker Park, or the occasional loaf at various Corner Bakery locations throw me. Still, I can't help but be intrigued by the offerings included in this month's special chocolate menu at Caliterra, 633 St. Clair, in the Wyndham Hotel. Executive chef Rick Gresh has created a menu that features chocolate from start to finish.

For example, diners can choose from Espresso Crusted Diver Caught Scallops served with softened leeks and a white chocolate emulsion, or Hudson Valley Foie Gras Terrine with Dried Cherry and Dark Chocolate Compote. Pasta is combined with chocolate in the Roasted Pumpkin Ravioli with Swiss Chard, Bitter Chocolate Broth, and Hazelnut Oil Crema. From there, you can move on to Grilled Millbrook Farms Venison Loin atop Red Wine Braised Celery, Parsley Root Puree, and Cocoa Nibs. Don't forget about soup—Warm White Chocolate Truffle Soup. The special chocolate menu is available through the end of the month.

Sugar And Spice

Amanda is 26, and works in college administration in downtown Chicago. She will probably be first in line at Caliterra, since her main source of nutrition seems to be chocolate. Not just chocolate, but sugar in most of its forms. On the bookshelf in her office is a dispenser of Jelly Belly jellybeans, and almost always on her desk is an open can of Cherry Coke, although the occasional Vanilla Coke is thrown in for variety. Although studies have shown that dieters hoping to decrease their intake of sweets should focus on chocolate, rather than, say, chocolate layer cake or chocolate chip cookies, because eaters will get their fill of the solid pieces of chocolate much faster than the cakes and cookies, Amanda can eat a seemingly endless supply of chocolate.

When asked if she could eat an entire bag of M&Ms (not the wimpy individual size, but the large one pound or so bag) in one sitting, she answers, 'Oh yeah!' without hesitation. And, the crazed look in her eyes lets you know that she's ready to consume a bag right then and there.

And Everything Not So Nice

While Amanda is on a quick trip to diabetes, she's not going to arrive there alone. Recent statistics point to the jump in adult onset diabetes—often in children. Actually, Amanda is off the hook here, since she's one of those lucky people who has Sugar Pops for breakfast, followed by a mid morning chocolate break, and a Hershey siesta later in the day, but still manages to stay skinny. A lot of kids in America aren't so lucky. To Amanda's credit, she also works out, and tries to down some carrots as an occasional snack. Most kids don't. Raised on frozen convenience foods, pre-packaged mixes, and too many trips to the food court at the mall, kids are getting fat—and then they're getting diabetes.

Food For Astronauts

Some of these kids, however, are having to go without their Big Macs in Washington, D.C., where the new Mc Donald's is underperforming at the National Air and Space Museum. Located in what was once the museum's cafeteria, the 1,000-seat fast-food outlet's entrance is hidden behind an Apollo program lunar module.

While most Americans are probably trained to just follow the smell of the grease to its point of origin, Mc D's hopes to make things easier with modest signs, logos on museum maps and literature, and the info desk of the nation's busiest museum will steer diners to the outlet, which also serves pizza. ----------------------------------------

See the front page, left side directory of www.WindyCityMediaGroup.com for Dining Out listings.


This article shared 1381 times since Wed Feb 19, 2003
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