There aren't a whole lot of people who go from Lincoln Park to Oakbrook to Las Vegas, and get confused about exactly where they
are. That number is likely to go up, however, as more and more diners flock to the three outlets of Lettuce Entertain You's Mon Ami
Gabi.
The fact that this casually grown-up restaurant can appeal to restaurant goers in three diverse locales speaks to the universality of
Mon Ami's offerings and ambience. When the original Mon Ami opened in the Belden Stratford, across the lobby from the classic
Ambria, it was at the expense of the beloved bistro, Un Grand Cafe. Diners soon realized, however, that the new restaurant offered
much of the original's charm, and even improved on its already inviting atmosphere. With doors that open onto a semi-private small
front patio, summer is an even better time to take advantage of the original's charm.
All three Mon Ami Gabi's feature the same menu of French classic slightly updated versions of others. Under the direction of the
Basque co-owner and chef Gabino Sotelino, traditionalists will tear into the crusty French bread, and then undoubtedly begin with
escargots, served with plenty of garlic or a hearty onion soup, topped with plenty of stick in your throat melted cheese. Other choices
include a tarte nicoise and a smoked salmon platter with brioche. Most appetizers average around $6.50, but for $13.95, several
diners can share an appetizer selection of cheeses.
Seafood fans can opt for hot seafood appetizers that include baked oysters or mussels, either with spinach or roasted garlic, or
steamed clams (around $8.00). Lighter starts include a simple and fresh tomato salad served with blue cheese and onions in a
balsamic vinaigrette, and a market salad of mixed greens assorted veggies, and a creamy and tangy dijon dressing (most around
$6.50).
Classic main courses include onglet mustard or anchovy, both served with a pile of pommes frites (around $16), steak au poivre
in a brandy peppercorn sauce (about $17), and bouillabaisse marseille (about $21). Other entree choices include a light whitefish
served with garlic potatoes in a red wine anchovy sauce, and roasted salmon tournedos with leek mashed potatoes (average around
$14).
Seafood lovers can find an entire section of choices under the Fruits de Mer box on the menu, with everything from oysters to
lobster, and an attractive shrimp cocktail, and larger plates to share with several fellow diners.
Vegetarians aren't going to have an easy time of it, but rarely do in French restaurants. Other choices do, however, include a
traditional roast chicken with pearl onions, mushrooms, garlic, and those too easy to eat pommes frites (about $14).
Even if your entree doesn't come with the frites, by all means order a side, or, better yet, order the frites and leek mashed potatoes
or pommes dauphinoises. Just pretend it's five years ago, when carbs were your best friend, not the scourge of the planet.
Desserts (usually $5) include a nicely done tarte tatin, with a sticky, shiny top of carmelized apples, served with whipped cream
and candies caramel sauce. One of my favorites is banana foster crepes. Sauteed bananas in foster sauce are wrapped in ice cream
filled thin crepes, and demand to be eaten quickly.
Those who must have chocolate with any dessert (most of us) have several options. First up, is a rich semi sweet chocolate
mousse topped with chocolate shavings, which will fill up just about anyone. The gateau au chocolate is a chocolate layer cake
served with chocolate ice cream. No wimpy vanilla to cut through all the cocoa here. As well as a chocolate sorbet, there are slightly
less fudgy profiteroles, which still get in the requisite chocolate, but with some variation in flavors. The three pastry shells are stuffed
with vanilla bean ice cream, and then smothered in a thick fudge sauce.
Fresh fruit can be found in the strawberries briand, with the marinated berries next to a deliciously different sour cream sorbet.
Mon Ami also offers a sorbet of the day and a fresh, light lemongrass sorbet.
Mon Ami Gabi can be dressy or upscale casual, and seems to appeal to both the festive centric diner (birthdays, anniversaries)
and the locals, like the older couple who sat just down from us, and knew most of the staff, as if this was the local diner. Even nicer is
the fact that, since this is a Lettuce Entertain You outlet, all diners are given serious attention by the well trained staff.
Mon Ami Gabi is located at 2300 N. Lincoln Park West. There is seating for 150, but reservations are a good idea (773-348-8886).
Valet parking is available and necessary. Dinner is served Monday through Thursday from 5:30 until 10, and on Fridays from 5 until
11. Sundays, dinner is served from 5 until 9.
Additional locations are found in Oakbrook and Las Vegas, appropriately enough at the Paris Hotel.
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