Caffe De Luca has been a staple of the trendy Wicker park neighborhood for several years now, and continues to be a chameleon for diners, letting itself become whatever diners want. Many just pop in for a cup of coffee and a bagel or a yogurt and a fruit cup, while others grab a quick lunch, and many stay for a while. At night, after a nice summer's day, this is a casual and comfortable spot to share some wine and a slice of Quiche or a Frittata (both $7.95).
The space is divided into several rooms, as if walls of an old Italian villa have crumbled, leaving alcoves for diners, painted in warm orange tones. There is little else in the way of decoration, aside from some Italian posters, but the space is comfortable, casual, and warm. While some of the rooms can feel tight if all the tables are taken, the more comfortable front room faces a bank of windows that look out onto the weekend shoppers on Damen Avenue. There are also windows in the back of the long room, but they only look out on a parking lot. The thing to remember about this, however, isn't the view—it's the parking. Free. And, you can enter from a door to the lot, instead of walking all the way around to the front.
Generous salads average around $7.50, and include a crispy Caesar and fresh Spinach salad, which features a surprising Mixed Fruit Vinaigrette. Bruschetta (all $7.95) are served on crisp toasted baguette slices, while Crostini (average around $6.50) are a variation on bruschetta, offering little baked breads with various toppings. Pick from Grilled chicken, roasted Almonds, Honey and baked Brie, or Italian Roast beef, red Onion, Roasted red Pepper,Spread, and provolone.
Bigger appetites can find satisfaction with a Pizza (around $10) or one of the large Panini (about $8). Choose from hot or cold, and selections like the Pollo Picante, which is a pressed sandwich, stuffed with Grilled Chicken, red Onion, Giardinera, Herb Aioli, and Smoked Mozzarella. More unusual is the Mandoria. The Mandoria is a combination of sweet and savory, with a nice helping of Brie cheese, toasted Almonds, and Honey on Ciabatta. If you must, try the Italian Cheese Steak. This version starts with Grilled Italian Beef, and covers it with onions, peppers, provolone, and herb aioli, and serves it all up on an onion ciabatta. All the sandwiches come with a generous side, usually mixed greens with shaved parmesan in a vinaigrette.
Drinks cover the usual ground, Lattes, Macchiatos, Cappucinos—but also feature the Bam Bam and Eye Opener. Caffeine lovers may want to check these out. You can also sample a variety of The Republic of Tea flavors, including my favorite, Good Hope Vanilla, a naturally decaffeinated red tea, infused with a hint of cream. There is also a selection of Italian sodas and granitas (think coffee slushies in mocha or latte flavors) to choose from, or just go for a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice.
If you're looking for something a little more filling, try a Smoothie (all $3.75 for 16 oz). They all begin with low-fat vanilla yogurt, and then mix in juice and ice. For breakfast try the unusual mix of banana, strawberry, pineapple, cider, and granola. I especially like the classic mix of strawberry, banana, and apple cider, but coconut fans should order the Island Smoothie. It combines cider with strawberry, banana, pineapple and coconut.
Not so long ago, Caffe de Luca got a new baker. She is also a part-time yoga instructor, and if she teaches yoga as well as she bakes, there are some pretty calm and happy students out there. One of my favorite items is a banana cake studded with chocolate chips. This is banana cake, not banana bread, so it is sweeter and less dense, though true chocolate fanatics might want to try what looks like a giant chocolate covered Oreo. It's not. It's really a fancy version of a Hostess Ho Ho. Of course, that doesn't do this cream-filled chocolate cake sandwich justice. At various times, you can also find Oatmeal Cake, Almond Croissants, low-fat Muffins, and generous squares of Rice Crispie Treats.
Service can be harried at busier times, but diners who wish only for drinks and pastry snacks are welcome to order at the counter. Menu items are better ordered from the well-meaning servers, who stay friendly, despite sometimes seemingly finding themselves alone on the floor.
Tables can be scarce at mealtimes, and the three-table summer sidewalk cafe does little to alleviate the crunch. Reservations are not taken, but, still, tables turn over pretty quickly, and a lot of those people you see going inside are just lining up for take out.
Caffe De Luca is just north of the big North, Damen, and Milwaukee Avenue intersections at 1721 N. Damen, and can be reached at (773) 342-6000.-
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