Nicole and Stephan Outrequin Quaisser traded their cozy Lincoln Square address for a slightly swankier one in River North. The husband-and-wife team closed LM Restaurant in Lincoln Square, and swiftly opened LM Bistro in a space previously occupied by Elate in the Felix Hotel.
The Outrequin Quaissers changed locations, but they brought with them many of the things I (and I suspect, many other diners) loved about LM Restaurant ( www.windycitymediagroup.com/lgbt/SUGAR-SPICE-Alfresco-dining-options/27100.html ). Like its predecessor, LM Bistro is decorated in warm orange and deep brown woods, and the menu still features authentic French food at relatively affordable prices. In fact, you can get a three-course prix fixe lunch for just $22 and a three-course dinner for $35.
I recently enjoyed a late lunch with friends at LM Bistro that, fueled by a couple of bottles of French wine, lasted almost until dinnertime. The wine list is impressive, but not intimidating. Aficionados will find $100 bottles to splurge on, and there are plenty priced under $40 for the rest of us. I loved the Le Peu de la Moriette Chenin Blanc, a dry white with a creamy texture that paired well with all of my courses.
I started my leisurely lunch with a cheese and charcuterie plate. I selected a blue and a goat cheese, which were both lovely and served in ample portions with plenty of crusty toasted bread. To my delight, the soup de jour was French onion. LM Bistro's tasty version is served in a mini Dutch oven. It's warm, hearty and the perfect cheese-topped treat for the chilly fall days coming our way.
I also tried the tomato tart. The crisp bread was topped with flavorful olive puree, goat cheese, basil and fresh tomatoes. It was more like an Italian flatbread than a French tart, but I rarely complain when I have cheese and carbs combined in any manner sitting in front of me. Plus, whether French or Italian, the tart was delicious and large enough to share or eat as a main course.
The lunch entrée selections, many of which are also available at dinner, are the traditional offerings you would expect at a French bistro—cassoulet, roasted chicken and bistro steak. You won't find a lot of a bunch of experimental bells and whistles at LM Bistro. Instead, you'll get superbly prepared French classics.
The slow roasted salmon was divine. It was perfect light pink color that all salmon should be when cooked properly, and the flaky fish pulled apart with just a fork. The salmon was served with wild mushrooms and French gnocchi with chive emulsion. The fresh mushrooms and tender gnocchi made excellent companions for the salmon, without stealing the show. My only criticism was the chive emulsion was just a tad too salty—enough to notice, but not enough to spoil the otherwise perfect dish.
You won't go wrong with the bistro steak (especially if you order it medium rare). The large and juicy steak is slathered with tangy red onion jam, and beneath it you'll find fingerling potatoes drenched in a creamy Fondant cheese sauce. The decadent sauce is also made with bone marrow—not something I seek out in a meal. But in this sauce, it works well, making the dish richer, but not gross, as bone marrow can sometimes do, in my opinion.
Like the rest of the courses, LM Bistro's desserts consist primarily of French classics. The chocolate pot de crème, I must admit, was a bizarre disappointment. The flavor was just fine (what's not to love about chocolate?), but the consistency was sticky and thick, almost like cake frosting that comes in a jar. It had none of the light airiness that typically makes pot de crème so worth ruining your diet. Fortunately, the crème brulee hit the nail on the head. It was sweet, creamy, glazed with the perfect brown on top, and served with a soft, fresh Madeleine.
I think LM Bistro will please both tourists and Chicagoans seeking authentic French food at reasonable prices. The Outrequin Quaissers are no strangers to running French restaurants. They also operate Trouquet in Ravenswood and Brasserie by LM on Michigan Avenue (both previously profiled), and they are the folks behind the just-opened Brasserie 54 in Andersonville. I look forward to seeing what this dynamic couple and their team do with all of their culinary endeavors.
LM Bistro is located at 111 W. Huron St.; call 312-202-9900 or visit www. lmrestaurant.com/home.html .
Do you need some more Sugar & Spice in your life? Follow me on Twitter: @SugarAndSpiceMS—for inside scoop and commentary on Chicago's dining scene.
