I finally made it to Paris Club—a little late, but just in time for the opening of the restaurant's much-anticipated, ahem, "rooftop deck," Studio Paris. I'll go ahead and spare you the suspense: Studio Paris is not a rooftop deck. It is the second floor of the restaurant and will offer you a view of essentially nothing, unless you've been dying for a glimpse of the outdated Marriott hotel next door.
For all of the hype (and the long lines and red velvet ropes), I had high hopes for Studio Paris, but was sorely disappointed. There is a very large skylight that reveals the night sky and the corners of a few high rises. If the people had billed it as "our upstairs lounge with a bunch of windows," I probably would have been pleasantly surprised. However, when you advertise a space as "one of the best views in the city" and "one of the hottest new nightclubs," and then deliver neither, you can probably plan on putting the red velvet ropes into storage pretty soon.
That said, the main event—the food at Paris Club—is excellent. Restaurateurs RJ and Jerrod Melman closed down Brasserie JO, updated the menu and transformed the space. And voila, Paris Club was born. The interior is strikingly authentic. Classic white tile, large mirrors adorning walls and warm yellow lighting make you feel like you may have just stepped off of Hubbard Street and right into a bustling café in the heart of Paris.
The Melmans have said their goal with Paris Club is to make French food accessible—and I believe their menu accomplishes that goal. You'll find all of the French classics like escargot, foie gras and steak frites, but with a few twists. The escargot comes in a puff pastry and can be ordered individually for just $1.95 a pop. Modest prices (the most expensive item is lobster frites for about $28) and small portions encourage diners to order a few dishes to share.
Don't miss the macaroni gratinee, an impossibly rich and creamy baked macaroni studded with French ham. The French onion fondue is a nice reinterpretation of French onion soup. It's a lot cheesier and the bread comes on the side for dipping. If this is the new French, I like it. For something on the lighter side, start with the tuna tartare Francaise. It strikes the perfect balance of fresh tuna, creamy avocado and tangy citrus.
Of course, you'll want to pair your French meal with a glass (or four) of wine, and Paris Club has plenty to choose from. The ample wine list is appropriately heavy on French wines, with several bottles for less than $40.
The main dishes offer a full lineup of perfectly executed French classics from coq au vin to salmon with mustard sauce to an exquisite Roquefort crusted filet mignon. The lobster frites include generous portions of tender lobster and crispy frites. The dish is my top pick and worth every penny of that $28.
You'll also want to order a couple of side dishes for your table to share. The truffle corn is far and away your best bet—if you can get your hands on it. This stuff apparently sells out, and I got the last decadent creamy crock of it the night I visited.
What could be more French than dessert? Cigarettes and skinniness, perhaps. But those aren't on the dessert menu, so order the raspberry and almond tart and the pistachio pot du crème, which is a tiny jar of heaven.
Paris Club is located at 59 W. Hubbard St.; call 312-595-0800 or visit www.parisclubchicago.com .
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