On his recent visit to Chicago, my wife's uncle, a former food critic and discerning Los Angeles foodie, requested that we dine at Taxim. Not only did this man live for a bit in Athens, but whatever city he finds himself in, he knows how to find great meals with the precision of a Tomahawk missile. So, I knew before I arrived at the Bucktown restaurant that I was in for some delicious Greek food.
Taxim serves upscale preparations of authentic cuisine from lesser-known regions of Greece. Greektown regulars won't find a lot of familiar food on the menu. There are no flaming cheese or stuffed grape leaves. Likewise, there's none of the kitschy decor you'll find around Halsted and Van Buren. Taxim's dining room is swathed in luxe Byzantine-inspired decor like colorful pillows lining banquet seating, ornate hanging light fixtures, grand white arches and copper tabletops.
The most robust sections of the menu are the salads and small plates, and you'll want to order several to share. My favorite was the prassopita, leeks and feta baked in phyllo dough that puts spanakopita to shame. The layers of phyllo are expertly combined to form a pastry with the pillowy consistency of a croissant. Lots of fresh dill adds a bright note to the rich appetizer. Also memorable is the wood-grilled octopus. The fish is plump and tender and has plenty of smoky flavor from the grill. There's also a silky eggplant spread is similar to baba ghanoush, but has a more complex flavor profile. It's worth ordering simply to procure a batch of the warm and fresh pita bread that accompanies it. Don't forget to get some cool, creamy tzatziki for dipping pretty much everything.
Taxim's finely curated wine list features highly drinkable selections from different regions in Greece. A chilled glass of white complements most of the food, particularly on a warm summer evening.
The relatively short list of main course offerings focuses on high-quality meat and fish seasoned with lots of fragrant herbs. Greek cuisine traditionalists won't be able to pass up the lamb chops. The three succulent chops are smeared with plenty of fresh mint and have soaked up ample flavor from the wood grill. One of the more unique dishes is the fish gyro. Sea bream, a white fish similar in taste to sea bass, is mixed into a sort of seafood salad, wrapped in a thin layer of phyllo and deep-fried. Except for the fact that is vaguely sandwich-shaped, is doesn't bear much resemblance to a traditional gyro. But, the flavor and texture are both interesting, and while I won't order it again and again, it's worth trying once.
More familiar tasting is the oven-roasted chicken. It's a tender chicken, with the juiciest parts being the dark meat. It's seasoned simply with fresh oregano and lemon, and served with fingerling potatoes, making for a comforting and satisfying dinner.
I never look forward to dessert at Greek restaurants because I find the ever-present baklava to be sticky and overly sweetthat's not so at Taxim. The baklava is much crisper and tastes like cinnamon-flavored biscotti. The boughatsa is also worth the 12 minutes it takes the kitchen to prepare it. The tartness of the cakey lemon custard is cut with sweet powdered sugar and buttery phyllo. But, far and away, the best dessert is the loukoumades. The fried dumplings are slightly crisp on the outside and warm and doughy inside. They are drizzled with just enough sweet wildflower honey and nestled in a pool of flowery rose cream.
Taxim is located at 1558 N. Milwaukee Ave.; call 773-252-1558 or visit www.taximchicago.com .
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