Tucked away in a small space beneath the el tracks on a downtown stretch of Lake Street is a stylish and inspired upscale Vietnamese restaurant. Saigon Sisters artfully infuses Vietnamese classics with playful modern flair. It's got all of the delicious authenticity you find in Vietnamese eateries in Uptown and plenty of the edgy sophistication that Chicago's West Loop restaurants are known for: Argyle Street meets Randolph Street.
Saigon Sisters' dining room is sleek and sexy. With only 10 or so tables and lots of candlelight, the vibe is decidedly intimate. Dark walls, polished concrete floors and all kinds of handsome wood create a space that invites you to sit back and relax. The cocktails help with that as well. In addition to ample wine and sake lists, which the knowledgeable staff can help you pair with food, there are a few fun Asian-inspired cocktails.
The straightforward menu is made up of traditional Vietnamese dishes like pho and banh bao with subtle new twists and modern upgrades. One of my favorite starters was the scallop and bacon spring roll. It's a fun and tasty play on bacon-wrapped scallops and a refreshing change from the shrimp that fills most spring rolls. The silky texture of the scallop followed by the crunch of the bacon makes for an exciting bite that is full of flavor.
Another memorable appetizer is the Saigon chicken wings. The large wings are fried crispy and slathered in a fiery Sriracha sauce that brings some serious heat. One of these spicy wings was plenty for me, but those with higher heat tolerances will happily devour the whole bowl.
I also loved the green papaya salad, which makes a cool and subtly sweet companion for the spicy wings. Fresh greens and herbs provide a base for nicely seasoned shrimp and pork belly, which make the salad substantial. Fried shallots and peanuts top off the whole thing and lend some welcome crunch.
There are entrée-sized dishes at Saigon Sisters, and you can certainly order just one for yourself. But, there are so many tempting small plates that you'd be missing out by ordering just a single entrée. A better strategy is to order a few smaller plates plus an entrée or two for the table to share.
The banh bao is one section of the menu you don't want to skip over. If you're normally a fan of the traditional Vietnamese meat-filled buns, you'll be dazzled by Saigon Sisters' spin on them. For one thing, they are stuffed with upgraded fillings like Waygu beef and foie gras and unexpected ingredients like jalapeno jelly and cardamom Dijon. What's more, instead of being steamed, the buns are either grilled or fried, which elevates them, and frankly, makes them taste darn good. I sampled some banh bao made with pulled pork covered in a tangy BBQ sauce with subtle undertones of Asian spice and served on a fried bun. It was a special offering when I visited and I sincerely hope the chef decides to make it a regular.
One of the most surprising delights was the baby octopus. The thick strips of octopus were as tender as can be. They are served atop a bed rice dyed black with cuttlefish ink. Let's be honest, black rice is not the most appetizing-looking food in the universe. But, if you can get past its appearance, this stuff is quite tasty. The rice has an almost pasta-like doughy texture and it's got a got a distinct salty, garlicky flavor that goes well with the mild octopus.
Like the banh bao, the beef pho is upgraded with Waygu beef, plus oxtail and meatballs. The savory broth is packed with lots of fragrant herbs, plenty of fresh green veggies and a generous helping of tender noodles. The soup tastes as beautiful as it looks, and for a traditional comfort food, it manages to be right at home in an upscale restaurant. I also enjoyed the drunken noodles, a simple and fresh tasting dish made with basil, kimchi, glass noodles and woodears, which give it an interesting earthy flavor.
Like the rest of the menu, the desserts are a masterful combination of Eastern and Western flavors. My favorite was the banana bread pudding, which is much firmer than a typical bread pudding and presented in artfully arranged strips instead of gooey mush in a bowl. Imagine biscotti, but significantly more moist. Tamarind curd adds a slightly sour tang that balances the sweetness of the banana. Also on the plate is some seemingly out-of-place peanut brittle, but it's delicious, so I didn't mind one bit.
Saigon Sisters is a true culinary gem. The food is inventive without feeling for a moment like it's trying too hard, and every morsel that comes out of the kitchen is expertly executed. If the owners had a space four times their current size, I have no doubt they'd easily fill the tables night after night.
Saigon Sisters is located at 567 W. Lake Street; call 312-496-0090 or visit www.saigonsisters.com .
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