You don't have to drive to Northbrook anymore enjoy a feast prepared by award-winning chefs Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris. The pair, who co-owns Prairie Grass Café in Northbrook, recently opened Prairie Fire in Chicago.
Prairie Fire is located in the old Powerhouse building in the West Loop. Inside you'll find dark wood, big, cozy booths, and tables full of businessmen dressed in matching khaki pants and blue shirts closing deals over bottles of merlot. The walls are lined with fire-themed artwork, which Stegner explained are photos of controlled burns at the Botanical Gardens and at Bill Kurtis' Tallgrass cattle ranch, where Stegner and Bumbaris get their beef ( more on that later! ) .
Stegner, who is also co-president of Green City Market, said the menu focuses on fresh, local and seasonal ingredientsand it shows. My GF and I started with the "spring roll style" shrimp, which were fried to perfection and paired with a deliciously tangy dipping sauce. Next we tried the mushroom, ricotta and parmesan ravioli, which I had been fantasizing about since I checked out the menu online. The shrimp was a tough act to follow, but I have to say the ravioli was underwhelming ( chewy pasta, bland filling ) .
Prairie Fire has plenty of affordable wines by the glass, and our waiter made knowledgeable recommendations. I chose the Chenin Blanc to wash down my apps. At $13 a glass, it's one of the pricier pours, but supple, slightly sweet and worth it.
There are several interesting salad options. I chose a mixed green served with a terrine of Amish blue cheese, grapes and candied walnuts. The terrine was like a cute little blue cheese cupcake, and while grapes in salads aren't my thing, they were an excellent addition to this one. My GF had the citrus honey marinated beets with goat cheese and hazelnuts. The tablespoon or so of goat cheese wasn't nearly enough, but the hazelnuts added fantastic flavor.
When it comes to the entrees, if you want a sure thing, order the Tallgrass Beef filet mignon. Tallgrass Beef comes from 100% grass-fed and hormone-free cattle in Kansasand believe me, happy cows taste better! This filet was thick, juicy, and melt-in-your-mouth tender. Try it with a glass of the Malbecdry, bold and perfect with steak. And, I've never met a twice baked potato I didn't like, but the one that comes with this filet definitely leaves an impression thanks to the sharp cheddar cheese and thick, meaty pieces of bacon tucked inside.
The ahi tuna was a beautiful cut of fish and seared absolutely perfectly, but it was served with baby bok choy ( yawn ) and a spicy soy sauce that, in my opinion, ruined it. That night's specials included Atlantic wild striped bass, which was fresh, tasty and served with a surprisingly delicious celery root puree and a crunchy farro salad.
The dessert menu has more than a few temptations. The apple tart has paper-thin apple slices baked in a buttery crust. I think it could have used a bit more seasoning, but that didn't stop me from eating way too much of it. I had high hopes for the baked pear in almond cake, but when it came to the table, it was bland and oily.
If you're lucky, the chefs will be serving the "Muk Muk" cake, which was also on the specials menu the night I was there. This warm chocolate cake is so simple and delicious, you hardly even need the Crème Anglaise served with it ( but who would be foolish enough to waste good Crème Anglaise? ) . I enjoyed it with a glass of bubbly because that's the kind of girl I am, but I bet it would also be great with red wine or an after-dinner liqueur.
There were some hits and some misses, but I look forward to seeing what each season brings to the menu at Prairie Fire. I'd say it's an ideal place for a power lunch or a client dinner, and offers what might just be the best filet mignon in town.
Prairie Fire, 215 N. Clinton, 312-382-8300, www.prairiefirechicago.com