If you can't make it to Mexico this winter for a warm-weather getaway, at least you know you can find plenty of authentic Mexican cuisine right here in soon-to-be snowy Chicago. One of the latest to join the ranks of the city's Mexican eateries is Mitad del Mundo, which opened earlier this month in Logan Square.
Chef Generoso Bahenawho formerly cooked at Real Tenochtitlan, Los Moles, Delicioso & Sabroso, Chilpancingo and Ixcapuzalcois serving simple fare like the kind you might find in a quaint Mexican town. There are no contrived chimichangas or Americanized chalupas here just rustic Mexican food made with high-quality ingredients like free-range chicken, fresh tuna and homemade crema.
On my visit to Mitad del Mundo, the crowd included groups of friends, families from the neighborhood and a few couples on dates. Lively Spanish music and brightly colored walls create a festive atmosphere, and the genuinely warm service makes you feel like you're dining in someone's homesomeone very skilled in the kitchen. All drinks are just $5, so go ahead and have a couple. The sangria was a bit too sweet for my taste, but the margaritas on the rocks were just right (the flavor and the price).
The menu focuses on small plates, so start with a few appetizers to share. Don't miss the "Queso Flameado," a slab of Panela cheese drizzled with lime juice and flamed right at your table. The ceviche was also worthwhilefresh lime-marinated marlin mixed with olives, tomato, serrano and cilantro. I would have preferred a bit more marlin a fewer tomatoes, but it's an enjoyable starter, nonetheless. The real showstopper for me was the empanadas. The plump turnovers are stuffed with mild Caribbean cheese and fried flaky golden brown. The guacamole they're served with is fresh and flavorful, but these tasty empanadas don't need any sides.
Main courses meander through the Mexican countryside. There's garlic-marinated albacore tuna from Nayarit; marinated pork baked in banana leaves from Yucatan; and stuffed poblanos with walnut sauce from Puebla. That culinary meandering wanders straight across the border to a good old American hamburger. It's predictably served with fries, but made unique with mole sauce.
The tacos are a sure bet. You can choose from skirt steak, chicken breast, duck or catfish. Tacos are served unassembled like fajitas. The protein of your choice will arrive sizzling with onions and peppers, with sides of black beans and homemade salsa and guacamole for you to construct your perfect taco. The only disconcerting thing about the tacos is the electric blue corn tortillas you're meant to wrap them in. Now, I'm not an agricultural expert, but I'm skeptical that corn meal occurs naturally in electric blue. Aside their shocking hue, however, the tortillas were soft, warm and doughy.
Desserts include traditional Mexican favorites like flan and tres leches cake. Regrettably, I didn't save a single inch of room for dessert. The lovely bartender did send over some creamy pineapple shots for me and my friend, and they definitely hit the spot. But, I will be back to try that tres leches cake. If you're in the mood to keep the party going, grab a seat at the bar after dinner because karaoke starts after 10 p.m.
Mitad del Mundo is located at 2833 W. Armitage Ave.; call 773-661-1150 or visit www.mitaddelmundorestaurant.com .