I have a major thing for Los Nopales, a hidden gem on Western Ave. in Lincoln Square that I believe serves up some of the best authentic Mexican comfort food in this whole town. So, I was thrilled when I discovered that the folks behind Los Nopales opened a new restaurant in Edgewater — not only so I could check out the cuisine, but also so I could stop trying to get people to accompany me to Los Nopales with somewhat startling frequency.
Mas alla del Sol, I'm pleased to report, is a hidden gem in its own right. The restaurant is located on a ho hum stretch of Broadway Ave. While the surrounding neighborhood isn't much to get excited about, once you step into Mas alla del Sol, things look much brighter. This restaurant feels a bit more upscale than Los Nopales. The walls are painted in vibrant primary colors, which provide nice contrast to the urbane polished concrete floors.
Whereas Los Nopales is BYOB (which I love), Mas alla del Sol pays serious attention to cocktails. No run-of-the-mill margaritas here. Instead you'll find libations made with intriguing ingredients like chile- or chamomile-infused tequila, agave nectar, fresh fruit and jalapeño. The liquors are infused in-house and my friendly and knowledgeable server was on hand to tell me all about how the cocktails are made.
I started with the pina ahumada. Mint, lime and agave nectar are mixed with vanilla bean- and pineapple-infused mezcal, a tequila-like liquor made with agave and aged in oak or mesquite. As a result of the aging process, the mezcal has a smoky flavor, which can take some getting used to in a cocktail. While I didn't positively love my first drink, I certainly appreciated the craftsmanship that went into making it. For something a bit sweeter, I recommend the frambuesa fizz, a delightful concoction of rum, raspberries, lemon and ginger-lavender syrup topped off with bubbly. The drink prices may give you a bit of sticker shock. None cost less than $9, which I guess is the going rate for a expertly-made craft cocktail in Chicago, but the rate seemed a little out of sync with the neighborhood (especially if you're used to BYOBing a bottle of Skinny Girl margarita to Los Nopales).
One of the things I love most about Los Nopales are the to-die-for sopes. So, I was relieved to see that while Mas alla del Sol didn't have them on the menu as an entrée, I could get my hands on a mini version as an appetizer. As I expected, they were superb. Thick and savory fried corn cakes are topped with your choice of meat, sprinkled with Mexican cheese and tomatoes and drizzled with sour cream. Fortunately, I had the sopes to curb my appetite because the chips and salsa left a little to be desired. The chips are fine, just as they are at Los Nopales, but neither restaurant offers a tortilla chip that's too good to resist. At Los Nopales, the salsa is good enough to make entire baskets of average chips disappear. But, that's not the case at Mas alla del Sol. Some people may enjoy this salsa, but I found it too spicy to even eat.
Just like the cocktails and the interior, the cuisine at Mas alla del Sol is a bit more upscale than its predecessor. There's certainly some overlap between the two menus, but where Los Nopales offers comforting classics like chimichangas and chile rellenos, Mas alla del Sol mixes in some more sophisticated dishes like pan seared scallops with chipotle-tortilla sauce and braised lamb shank with corn mashed potatoes. Thankfully, the deliciously cooked carne asada many of us have come to know and love at Los Nopales is also available in Edgewater.
You'll also find several mouth-watering preparations of skirt steak at Mas alla del Sol. There's one with chile morita-tomato sauce that is topped with what has got to be a quarter pound of seared panela cheese — and worth every calorie and fat gram. If you can't decide between a meat dish or something melty in a tortilla, fear not. You can have both if you order the tampiquena. You get the restaurant's signature skirt steak with is tender and full of grilled flavor with subtle notes of Mexican spices, and just for good measure there's a delicious cheese enchilada on the side. It's a true happy meal.
I didn't really save room for dessert when I saw that the tres leche cake I love so much at Los Nopales was not on the menu. Fortunately, my waiter saved me from missing out on the spectacular flan. I tried the coconut version, which is at once delicate and dense. The rich, creamy custard has a thin "crust" of shredded coconut that adds flavor and texture. To top it all off is a rum sauce with a serious kick. It was the sweet perfect ending to a truly satisfying meal.
I'm impressed by Mas alla del Sol. The food ventures into modern territory without sacrificing any of what is so wonderful about classic and authentic Mexican cuisine. Everything is clearly prepared thoughtfully and with love. I expect Mas alla del Sol to quickly accumulate a devoted crowd of regulars just like Los Nopales. My advice: go now before you have to wait for a table on a Saturday night.
Mas alla del Sol is located at 5848 N. Broadway St.; call 773-654-1900 or visit www.masalladelsolrestaurant.com .
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