I never made it to Marigold during the six years the much-loved Indian restaurant operated in Uptown. Historically, I haven't been a huge fan of Indian food, but my visit last summer to Raj Darbar ( www.windycitymediagroup.com/lgbt/Sugar-Spice-Raj-Darbar/38563.html ) changed the way I view the cuisine, and I've been enjoying it a lot more ever since then. So, when the owners of Marigold decided to relocate to a Clark Street spot in Andersonville, I was happy to have an Indian restaurant right in my own neighborhood.
For years, I'd been hearing good things about Marigold from friends who are Indian food fanatics, and I'm pleased to say my first visit did not disappoint. The décor is sleek and modern, with just a few subtle touches and pops of color that nod to the restaurant's Indian roots. Very dim lighting and audible music create a decidedly urban, almost club-like, vibe. It's a fun place to spend a weekend evening with friends.
In addition to a reasonably priced wine list (several bottle are less than $30), you'll also find a tempting list of specialty cocktails for $6 to $8 each—a bargain in this city. Start your meal with one of the Indian-inspired concoctions like the Mumbai Mule, which blends cardamom-infused vodka with ginger beer, fresh ginger and lime. Yum!
The appetizer section of the menu was my favorite. Of course, you'll find must-haves like samosas, and Marigold's are among the best I've eaten. They are quite large, fried perfectly golden-brown and stuffed with lots of fluffy potato. In addition to Indian staples, there are also several creative East-meets-West offerings like steamed Prince Edward Island mussels in a turmeric-infused coconut-milk broth. I particularly enjoyed the lamb tikki sliders. Succulent lamb burgers are topped with paneer cheese, smoked paprika and cilantro and served on a toasted cumin roll. What a brilliant way to get in on a current culinary craze (sliders), while staying true to the authentic flavors of Indian cuisine.
Like the appetizers, the main dishes are a mix of Indian classics and more experimental dishes that subtly incorporate Indian flavors. If you're dining with a group, I'd recommend ordering several main courses and sharing them family style. That is what the restaurant is expecting you to do, so your entrées may not all be served at the same time. Plus, with so many tantalizing offerings, you'll probably be eyeing your neighbor's plate for a bite anyway.
The saag paneer or, as I like to call it, Indian spinach dip, is predictably delicious. And, Marigold's crisp and garlicky naan is the perfect vehicle to devour it. As an entrée on its own, the saag paneer is a bit too rich, but shared with a group, it's a great addition to your Indian feast. The tandoori chicken also hit the spot. The chicken was juicy and infused with all kinds of smoky flavor. Fluffy basmati rice and fresh stir-fried veggies pair nicely with the tender chicken.
I also sampled some of the less traditional dishes, including a duck breast which was slathered in Indian spices, cooked to a crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. I don't typically order duck, but this was one quite good, not at all gamey, and served with fresh green beans with a tangy glaze.
For dessert, I can confidently recommend the rice pudding, which manages to be elegant rather than mushy and bland, thanks in large part to a perfect blend of sweet Indian spices. My group wasn't sure about the rice pudding, purely based on the dish's ho-hum reputation caused by other lackluster versions, but we ate every last bite at Marigold.
The only thing I would do differently next time I visit Marigold (and I will) is order more items. I certainly didn't leave hungry, but I would have enjoyed trying a few other dishes. Portions are modest enough that you can order several appetizers and entrées to share them with your table. I'm happy to count Marigold as one of my new neighbors. It's a great spot to pop in for a quick and reliable mid-week dinner and also a perfect place to begin a night out with friends.
Marigold is at 5413 N. Clark St.; call 773-989-4300 or visit www.marigoldrestaurant.com .
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