If Chicago had to lose its one and only lesbian bar, at least we lost it to a place that serves a grilled cheese made not only with smoky Gouda, but with actual mac and cheese. And applewood smoked bacon. On challah bread. Yeah, it's pretty amazing.
The folks behind Jerry's Sandwiches, of Wicker Park fame, opened their newest location in Andersonville in the Clark Street building occupied by Stargaze for all of those years. They gave the space a full makeover, adding a massive handsome wood bar, windows that flood the space with light and a cozy stone fireplace smack dab in the middle. It's a warm and welcoming spot that beckons you to linger. And that's a good thing because you'll need about 20 minutes just to get through the menu.
There are more than 100 sandwiches to choose from on Jerry's almost overwhelming menu—and that doesn't even include the endless options you might concoct from the "build your own" section. With so many tantalizing (beef tenderloin with Swiss, herb butter and fried portabellas) and intriguing (cold lemon chicken with peanut butter and cilantro) choices, picking a single sandwich is kind of exhausting. I can recommend a couple of strategies to tackle this mind-boggling menu. Simply commit to the first sammie that catches your eye. Or, bring some sandwich-loving friends so you divide and conquer and taste a few of Jerry's meaty masterpieces.
The Reuben is definitely one to remember. Dark rye bread is piled high with thick slices of corned beef, melty Swiss and Russian dressing. Jerry's fresh update on this deli classic replaces the traditional sauerkraut with cider slaw, which gives the sandwich a light and zesty kick. I'm salivating about that Reuben as I write this and wishing I didn't agree to give my fiancée the second half of my sandwich that I brought home as leftovers the other day.
Jerry's roast beef sandwiches are made with pot roast beef rubbed with a special blend of garlic and herbs. I loved the McGannahan S, a roast beef sandwich that is straightforward but anything but ordinary. The flavorful slices of roast beef are paired with not only pungent provolone, but also fresh mozzarella. Horseradish and Jerry's own zesty yellow mustard give this sandwich a memorable kick.
That aforementioned chicken and peanut butter sandwich is called the "Annie O," and it is surprisingly delicious. The juicy chunks of chicken have a subtle lemon flavor. A generous smear of peanut butter and mango-chipotle chutney conspire to make the sandwich taste almost like Asian chicken in peanut sauce—except on a pretzel roll (or sourdough or brioche or whichever other type of bread strikes your fancy).
The shrimp po' boy is also quite good. Large fresh shrimp are fried golden brown in Louisiana-style corn flour, and stuffed into an Italian roll with sliced pickle, mayo and hot sauce. I enjoyed the 'po boy, and the only reason I wouldn't order it again is because there are simply too many other sandwiches competing for my attention.
Vegetarians, fear not. You will not be left out in the cold at this sandwich extravaganza. There are seven different meatless grilled cheeses, including one called the Zippy, which I'm looking forward to sinking my teeth into one day very soon. It's got roasted portabella mushrooms, cheddar spread, pepper jack, sliced jalapeño, southwest mayo and is served on sesame sourdough. Plus, there's a whole section of vegetarian sandwiches that venture far beyond the grilled cheese. The Able L, for example, combines hummus, grilled asparagus, roasted green chilis, Swiss cheese and lemon mayo. Hidden in the "Jerry's Neo-Classics" section of the menus is a fried green tomato sandwich—the vegetarian answer to the shrimp po' boy. While I haven't sampled that particular sandwich yet, I did try Jerry's friend green tomatoes, which are crisp and delicious. I can only imagine they'd be improved by the basil, fresh mozzarella, lemon mayo and hot sauce that accompany them on the fried green tomato sandwich.
All of Jerry's sandwiches come with your choice of two sides. So far, I've most enjoyed the housemade chips and the French fries, which are cut thin, deep fried and salty. They taste kind of like the fries at McDonald's, without the bitter aftertaste of mass-production and corporate greed. All of the sides are just fine, but really, the sandwiches are the stars of the show at Jerry's.
If you're thirsty, this overachieving sandwich shop has you more than covered. Look for a dizzying array of craft beers, on tap and in bottles, and so many whiskey selections that you might turn Irish if you spend enough time at the bar.
Oh, Jerry's also serves a handful of entrée salads, but we don't even need to discuss that, do we? Order a sandwich and work out a little harder tomorrow.
Jerry's Andersonville is located at 5419 N. Clark; call 773-796-3777 or visit www.jerryssandwiches.com .
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