"Farm-to-table" has become quite the buzz phrase in the restaurant industry over the last few years. It's gotten to the point that if a restaurant doesn't bill itself as "farm-to-table," then I start to worry that they'll be serving Spam and canned green beans. Typically, you have to take restaurant's "farm-to-table" claims with a grain of (coarse Mediterranean sea) salt.
That's not the case at Homestead, a new rooftop eatery in Wicker Park. Homestead's "farm" is situated right where you can see it: on the patio. Depending on which table you're seated at, you could literally reach out and grab some fresh basil or lavender and add it to your cocktail or entrée. (Don't do that, though. I am sure the friendly staff will happily bring you all the herbs you can eat).
The "farm" at Homestead is more of very large herb and vegetable garden. But, considering it is located in the center of a major urban area, I'd say that's pretty darn impressive. Plus, the restaurant has a larger garden nearby and source as many ingredients as possible from nearby farms.
Homestead is co-owned by Greg Mohr and Scott Weiner, the guys who brought us The Fifty/50 and Roots Handmade Pizza. I'm happy to report that they churn out elevated farm-to-table cuisine as well as they do burgers and pizza.
First things first: Start with one of the expertly crafted cocktails. Many of them are made with fresh fruit and herbs, which, in my book, make them health food. I loved the No. 5, a refreshing concoction of tequila, lime juice and cherry bark vanilla bitters. It's one of the easiest-to-drink tequila cocktails I've tasted (trust me—I've done my research) and the glass is rimmed with sweet vanilla lavender salt, making it a kind of softer, gentler margarita.
The food menu is made of a couple of dozen small plates made for sharing. You'll want to order four to six dishes for two people, and the many seriously appetizing offerings make it difficult to choose. One of my favorites was simply called "bread basket dip." Don't be deceived by the unassuming name. The bread is irresistibly fresh and comes with a mason jar filled with olive oil sprinkled with just-picked mint, fennel, cumin, coriander and applewood-smoked sea salt. Sitting in the flavorful olive oil are four scoops of homemade yogurt cheese that you swirl in the oil mixture and then smear all over your warm crusty bread. I'll never be able to enjoy plain old bread and butter in quite the same way.
Another ridiculously delicious vegetarian dish is the two-way potato. Fresh potatoes are hand cut into shoestrings and then deep-fried around a filling of mashed potatoes, goat cheese and herbs. Um, why did someone not think of this sooner? Oh, and there are truffles shaved on top. No description I can write will do the two-way potato justice. Just go to Homestead and eat it.
The menu isn't limited to carbs. There are a bunch of fish and meat dishes to round out your meal. Aside from being thoughtfully created and carefully prepared, they are all presented beautifully—as in they look like edible flower arrangements, thanks to all of the fresh herbs and vegetables arranged on the plates.
The beer-braised beef was incredibly tender and cooked in a sticky sweet sauce of bourbon and maple syrup. At first, it tasted just a tad too sweet, but if you pair each bite of meat with some of the fresh kale and greens that accompanies it, then it's just right.
I also enjoyed the scallops, which were seared crisp outside but juicy on the inside. They sit atop a flavorful sunchoke puree and are topped with Kentucky paddlefish caviar. One of the most inventive dishes was the crunchy pork. The Berkshire belly is fried and then drizzled with a tangy sauce made from kalamansi, a Chinese orange. It's served with papaya and house-made pickles. When combined, the ingredients taste like a very upscale version of sweet and sour pork.
Homestead's desserts are crafted with the same creativity, fresh ingredients and attention to detail as the cocktails and the food. The beer, bacon, bourbon, coffee, caramel and chocolate cake is a sight to behold. An upside-down chocolate cupcake sits on one end of the plate and a scoop of salted caramel gelato is placed on the other. They are connected by a thick strip of bourbon maple candied bacon. There's a whole lot to love about this dessert. My only teensy, tiny complaint was that the chocolate cake was a bit on the dry side.
As dazzling as the bacon/chocolate/bourbon extravaganza was, I actually preferred a simpler dessert that was offered as a special on the night I visited—a super-moist vanilla cake layered with a delicate orange-flavored cream. My waiter said the chef was considering adding it to the menu on a permanent basis. He's got my vote.
Homestead offers what I believe is the most authentic "farm-to-table" experience you'll find within the city limits. Go before the summer ends so you can dine al fresco among leafy, fragrant herbs and tomatoes climbing a brick wall.
Homestead is located at 1924 W. Chicago Ave. (enter through Roots Handmade Pizza); call 773-645-4949 or visit www.homesteadontheroof.com .
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