Windy City Media Group Frontpage News

THE VOICE OF CHICAGO'S GAY, LESBIAN, BI, TRANS AND QUEER COMMUNITY SINCE 1985

home search facebook twitter join
Gay News Sponsor Windy City Times 2023-12-13
DOWNLOAD ISSUE
Donate

Sponsor
Sponsor
Sponsor

  WINDY CITY TIMES

Sugar & Spice: Frog n Snail
DISH Weekly Dining Guide in Windy City Times: REVIEW
by Meghan Streit
2012-05-02

This article shared 2449 times since Wed May 2, 2012
facebook twitter pin it google +1 reddit email


Frog n Snail debuted a few weeks ago amid much excitement—and with good reason. The man behind the new Boystown eatery is Dale Levitski, the chef at Lincoln Park's Sprout and a former Top Chef contender.

Before taking over at Sprout, Levitski logged time at Blackbird, La Tache and Trio. Last year, he was selected as a semifinalist for "Best Chef: Great Lakes Region" by the James Beard Foundation, according to the restaurant's website. There is simply no denying that this man knows his way around a kitchen. That's why I have high hopes that Frog n Snail will soon find its footing, but my first visit left a lot to be desired.

The Broadway Avenue restaurant is decorated in grassy greens and woody browns that evoke a sense of being in nature (perhaps in a swamp with frogs and snails). The space is soothing, but like the food, it's also a tad confusing. You look in one direction and you'll see sleek metal sculptures of the restaurant's eponymous frogs and snails, but then you turn around and there are booths upholstered in fabric that would be more at home in a worn-out diner than a new urban eatery. Frog n Snail is BYOB for the moment, so you can test Levitski's latest culinary experiments without racking up a huge bill.

There were some high points, to be sure, but most of the admittedly interesting dishes that I tried just fell flat. There are about 10 small plates, half of which are meant for sharing and the rest portioned for one person. Don't expect any of the tired usual suspects you'll find on a lot of appetizer menus. Instead, you'll find unique offerings like ricotta dip with bacon and broccoli and unexpected twists like mussels flavored with absinthe and fennel.

I tried the truffle chiffon, even though I had no idea what it was (even after reading the menu description and inquiring to my waiter). The dish was billed by my waiter as a "savory crème brulee without the brulee" with artichoke, braised red onion and pistachios. The texture of this sad little dish bore no resemblance to crème brulee. It had the consistency of cream cheese, and barely as much flavor. I didn't detect a note of truffle anywhere, and the artichokes, braised onions and pistachios just couldn't compensate for the flavorless mush beneath them.

Thankfully, the French onion soup was far better. I can't say it's the best version I've ever eaten, but it is made with super-tender and flavorful short rib meat—a definite upgrade from the inferior cuts of beef you might find in other French onion soups. It's covered with Fontina rather than the traditional Gruyere, which was a nice twist. For no apparent reason, the soup also included peas. They didn't ruin it for me, but I definitely could have done without them.

The main courses include a short list of meat and fish dishes, each with some experimental addition to or unique twist on a classic. The chicken Kiev, for example, includes lima beans and kale succotash. The beef Stroganoff starts with homemade pappardelle and is upgraded with a petite filet au poivre and tarragon Madeira cream.

The curry-braised lamb shank has potential, but doesn't knock it out of the park. The meat was expertly flavored and melt-in-your-mouth tender, which is why I was so disappointed that it was served at room temperature. I'll chalk that misstep to the kitchen staff working out some kinks. I will say that the mint French gnocchi that accompanied the lamb were close to perfect. They were sautéed to a golden crispness on the outside, and soft and delicate on the inside.

Vegetarians will find one entrée in the form of mushroom and peach buckwheat crepes. Until the menu changes to include some additional vegetarian dishes, non-meat eaters will be leaving Frog n Snail quite hungry because the crepes are lackluster, at best. Like the lamb, they were served nearly cold. The crepes themselves were fine, but completely forgettable. The mushroom filling was flavorless, and the menu promised goat cheese and cauliflower, but my crepes only seemed to include the latter. Unfortunately, small bits of cauliflower look strangely like crumbled goat cheese, so every time I thought I was stabbing a bit of goat cheese to add some flavor to my bite, it turned out to be more tasteless cauliflower. Sigh—at least the dish probably contained fewer calories than I was planning on eating.

There were three dessert offerings on the night I visited Frog n Snail. I chose the profiteroles, which were a tremendous disappointment. They were filled with vanilla gelato, which was tasty enough, but the profiteroles themselves—which should be light and airy—were hard as rocks. My waiter had given me and my dining companion a knife with our dessert, "just in case," he said. He clearly knew what we were about to be served because a sharp knife was indeed the only way to get through these things. The only redeeming quality about this dessert was the tart marinated cherries served on top.

With such a talented chef behind the scenes at Frog n Snail, I wish I had better news to report about this restaurant. Nothing here is lacking in imagination, and the creative flavor combinations have huge potential. So, perhaps in time Frog n Snail will start churning out dishes that inspire diners to come back for more.

Frog n Snail is located at 3124 N. Broadway Ave.; call 773-661-9166 or visit www.frognsnail.com .

Do you need some more Sugar & Spice in your life? Follow me on Twitter: @SugarAndSpiceMS—for inside scoop and commentary on Chicago's dining scene.


This article shared 2449 times since Wed May 2, 2012
facebook twitter pin it google +1 reddit email

Out and Aging
Presented By

  ARTICLES YOU MIGHT LIKE

Gay News

SAVOR Easter roundup for 2024
2024-03-24
Easter is a time to celebrate rebirth, spring, life—and brunches. Chicagoland restaurants will be out in full force on Sunday, March 31, offering Easter meals—some with their own twists (including ...


Gay News

SAVOR WhiskyX, an Easter soiree, a pizza-making class and more
2024-03-24
I'll drink to that: On March 21, I was invited to check out dozens of whiskeys, rums, tequilas and other spirits at WhiskyX, which took place at the Chicago venue Morgan MFG and which hundreds of ...


Gay News

SAVOR REVIEW Sushi By Bou
2024-03-19
Going into a sushi restaurant, I didn't expect to hear a 1920s version of the Carly Rae Jepsen hit "Call Me Maybe" emanating from the speakers. However, that and other Great Gatsby-like flourishes can be found ...


Gay News

SAVOR Gemini Grill opens, 'Rick Bayless Day' and more
2024-03-17
—And I quote: I'm not crazy about reality, but it's still the only place to get a decent meal."—Groucho Marx —Pop life: Don't forget my other Substack: "Pop-Eds: My takes on pop culture." Thank you so ...


Gay News

SAVOR REVIEW La Grande Boucherie
2024-03-14
Just a few months ago, The Group NYC—a hospitality consortium based in you-know-where—opened the Italian restaurant Olio e Piu in Chicago's River North neighborhood. You can read my review of ...


Gay News

SAVOR Let's Talk Womxn's 'More Than March'; Adobo Grill's tequila dinner
2024-03-06
I was fortunate enough to be invited to a culinary event that celebrates the achievement of women—and, fittingly, it happened during Women's History Month. On March 1, Let's Talk Womxn Chicago held its annual "More Than ...


Gay News

SAVOR James Beard contest, a new Publican opens and a PAWS event
2024-02-25
Contest: You have a chance to be in on all the action during the chef-studded James Beard Award weekend of June 8 in Chicago. Among other things, the grand prize winner will get a three-stay in ...


Gay News

SAVOR Green City Market; Sofitel's 'Un-Tea' time
2024-02-24
For those who wonder about the lack of a farmers' market in Chicago during the winter months, I point you toward Green City Market (GCM) Avondale, taking place on Saturdays at 8 a.m.-1 p.m. through March ...


Gay News

SAVOR A new Sushi By Bou, a seafood boil class and James Beard scholarships
2024-02-18
Pop life: Don't forget my other Substack: "Pop-Eds: My takes on pop culture." Thank you so much to the people who've already subscribed. The latest entry (Feb. 17) features Beyonce, Zendaya and my Oscar predictions. Subscribe ...


Gay News

SAVOR At Willies 'n Waffles, sexuality is on the menu
2024-02-12
Having written about Chicago's culinary scene for at least 15 years, this writer has covered all sorts of spots—from Michelin-starred upscale establishments to those so-called "holes in the wall" that can serve some of the best ...


Gay News

SAVOR 'The Bear,' new pizza lounge, Chicago Black Restaurant Week
2024-02-11
"Bear" necessities: The third season of the Chicago-set series The Bear will debut in June, per Variety. FX chairman John Landgraf made the announcement during the network's presentation at the Television Critics Association's winter 2024 press ...


Gay News

SAVOR Taylor's Tacos' Chef Taylor Mason on being part of the Vegas event 'Pepsi Dig In'
2024-02-08
On Feb. 8-10 (Super Bowl weekend), Taylor's Tacos Chef Taylor Mason and wife/co-owner Maya Mason will be showcasing two exclusive dishes at the Pepsi Dig In: Brunch with the Best takeover at Delano Las Vegas, giving ...


Gay News

SAVOR Jean Banchet Awards, new Black-owned spots and free pizza
2024-02-04
Congrats!: The winners of the Jean Banchet Awards—which honor Chicago cuisine—were recently announced at Venue Six10. Longtime Chicago Tribune critic Phil Vettel was (justifiably) honored with the Culinary Excellence of ...


Gay News

SAVOR Chocolatier Uzma Sharif on being part of World of Chocolate
2024-02-03
AIDS Foundation Chicago will hold its annual World of Chocolate event on Friday, Feb. 9, at 6 p.m. at Union Station, 500 W. Jackson Blvd. Attendees will embark on a global tour of chocolate—but there will ...


Gay News

SAVOR Valentine's/Galentine's Day offerings for 2024
2024-02-01
Love is in the air—until it isn't. While some couples will be getting ready to celebrate their closeness (and all that other mushy stuff) on Valentine's Day, others will get together to celebrate Galentine's Day (celebrating ...


 


Copyright © 2024 Windy City Media Group. All rights reserved.
Reprint by permission only. PDFs for back issues are downloadable from
our online archives.

Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, drawings, and
photographs submitted if they are to be returned, and no
responsibility may be assumed for unsolicited materials.

All rights to letters, art and photos sent to Nightspots
(Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago
Gay and Lesbian News and Feature Publication) will be treated
as unconditionally assigned for publication purposes and as such,
subject to editing and comment. The opinions expressed by the
columnists, cartoonists, letter writers, and commentators are
their own and do not necessarily reflect the position of Nightspots
(Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago Gay,
Lesbian, Bisexual and Transgender News and Feature Publication).

The appearance of a name, image or photo of a person or group in
Nightspots (Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times
(a Chicago Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual and Transgender News and Feature
Publication) does not indicate the sexual orientation of such
individuals or groups. While we encourage readers to support the
advertisers who make this newspaper possible, Nightspots (Chicago
GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago Gay, Lesbian
News and Feature Publication) cannot accept responsibility for
any advertising claims or promotions.

 
 

TRENDINGBREAKINGPHOTOS







Sponsor


 



Donate


About WCMG      Contact Us      Online Front  Page      Windy City  Times      Nightspots
Identity      BLACKlines      En La Vida      Archives      Advanced Search     
Windy City Queercast      Queercast Archives     
Press  Releases      Join WCMG  Email List      Email Blast      Blogs     
Upcoming Events      Todays Events      Ongoing Events      Bar Guide      Community Groups      In Memoriam     
Privacy Policy     

Windy City Media Group publishes Windy City Times,
The Bi-Weekly Voice of the Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual and Trans Community.
5315 N. Clark St. #192, Chicago, IL 60640-2113 • PH (773) 871-7610 • FAX (773) 871-7609.