Far North Siders, you no longer have to trek down to Boystown to eat at Nookies. The classic Chicago restaurant has opened a new location in Edgewater.
I've always enjoyed the casual and cozy diner atmosphere at Nookies in Boystown, and expected more of the same at the Edgewater outpost. However, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the new Nookies is all grown up. The expansive space in the Bryn Mawr historic district is sophisticated and modern, with soothing neutral colors, rich dark wood and quirky light fixtures that appear to be made of bamboo.
The first thing you'll notice is the massive wooden bar at the entrance. But Nookies hasn't secured its liquor license yet, so the only things coming out of that bar are smoothies and lattes. If you want a mimosa or a Bloody Mary with your brunch (and why wouldn't you?), come prepared with your own supplies for the next few months. A carafe of fresh-squeezed orange juice will set you back $12, but far less than several rounds of mimosas would cost.
I have a serious fear of long menus, thanks to a firmly held belief that a restaurant can't cook that many different dishes well. The breakfast menu at Nookies Edgewater is at least eight pages long, with a dizzying list of pancakes, omelets, French toast, breakfast skillets, egg sandwiches and a smattering of lunch salads and sandwiches. I'm happy to report that the length of the menu does not diminish the quality of the food at Nookies. So far, every morsel of food I've put into my mouth has been fantastic. I've only eaten brunch at Nookies, but the restaurant also offers a full lunch and dinner menu. I'll get back to you on those after I burn the calories I consumed at two fabulous morning meals at Nookies.
You'll find several inventive Benedicts that knock the socks off of the typical English muffin and Canadian bacon version (although that is an option as well). The "Dixie" Benedict features poached eggs and ham on top of biscuits and topped with sausage gravy. Another is made with crab cakes atop a grilled baguette with baby greens and tarragon aioli, and all the Benedicts come with nicely seasoned roasted red potatoes. I highly recommend the "Paris" Benedict, which begins with grilled brioche topped with a layer of melted Gruyere cheese. Next comes several slices of thick, juicy Cherrywood smoked bacon and grilled asparagus with two perfectly poached eggs teetering on top. The whole decadent treat is smothered in truffle and chive cream sauce. The Paris Benedict at Nookies is quite possibly the best $12.95 you can spend on breakfast in Chicago.
If you're not ready for something quite as rich as truffle cream in the morning, try an omelet (there are several options or you can create your own) or an egg sandwich. One simple sandwich called the "B.E.S.T." features bacon, egg over medium, spinach and tomato on grilled sourdough with chipotle aioli. Vegetarians will love the egg sandwich made with spinach, mushrooms, tomato and Gouda, which gives it a delicious smoky flavor without any meat. The sandwich is fantastic on sourdough bread, but next time I'll try it on a croissant.
Don't overlook Nookies' specials menu, where you will find all kinds of gems available for a limited time. On my most recent visit, they were serving carrot cake French toast made with raisin bread and drizzled with a cream cheese sauce. It's a phenomenal dish that isn't too sweet and somehow manages to taste exactly like carrot cake in French toast form. Another winner from the specials menu that I hope Nookies brings back soon is the Croque Madame. A juicy slice of ham and a runny egg are smushed between two thick slices of French toast and drenched in a mushroom cream sauce. If it weren't so delicious, it would be kind of ridiculous.
I'd say Nookies Edgewater is the best thing to come to the neighborhood in quite some time. I predict that nearby residents will quickly become regulars, and people from all over the city will happily come up north to enjoy brunch at Nookies.
Nookies Edgewater is located at 1100 W. Bryn Mawr Ave.; call 773-516-4188 or visit www.nookiesrestaurants.net/index.html .
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