Stephen LaHaie probably has one of the most challenging jobs in the Chicago restaurant scene. As managing partner of Shaw's Crab House, he overseesand has to maintain the high standardsof one of the city's premier longtime seafood destinations. ( Having previously patronized Shaw's in the '90s, Savor can attest to how long the restaurant has been around. )
The out LaHaie, in a rare interview, talked about being in the restaurant business, Shaw's commitment to sustainability and his own relationship ( which has been going strong for 38 years ) .
Windy City Times: Could you tell me a little about how you got started in the restaurant business? I understand that your family has a background in the industry.
Stephen LaHaie: Yes. When I was growing up as a kid, my dad owned a restaurant that was open just during the summers in a tourist town. He was the cook; my mom was a waitress, did the books and, in the last years, baked pies as well. I was, maybe, 7 when they first had it and 12 by the time they got rid of it.
I was inspired by it and went to business school at Northern Michigan University and when I was done I didn't know exactly what business I wanted to be in. I knew the most about the restaurant business, and my aunt and uncle had a motel and I worked there during high school so I ended up going to Michigan State University and got an MBA in the hotel, restaurant and institutional program. That's what it was called back then; it's now called the School of Hospitality Business, which I think is a much better name.
Then I worked for a restaurant company, in management, for four years in Milwaukee. My partner of 38 years, who I met at Northern Michigan, had moved to Chicago; I visited him a lot, and I really liked Chicago, so I decided to move here. I had been to some of these Lettuce Entertain You restaurants [ of which Shaw's is a part ] back in the late '70s and early '80s. There were restaurants like R.J. Grunts, Lawrence of Oregano, Jonathan Livingston Seafoodcute names like those. I decided I wanted to work there, so I interviewed and Lettuce Entertain You hired me. That was in 1981, so I've been with them for 30 years. The company's been around for 40 years.
I've worked primarily in seafood restaurants. The first place I worked was Jonathan Livingston Seafood. Then, I opened Shaw's in 1984; the partner in charge was a Michigan State alum as well, and is now the president/CEO of Lettuce Entertain You. I've done a few side projects, such as The Eccentric in the late '80s, where Oprah was a partner. I've also worked in The Mity Nice Grill and in Vong's, which later became Vong's Thai Kitchen. Now, there's also Shaw's in Schaumburg and a place called Tokio Pub [ also in Schaumburg ] , which is a tapas-type place.
WCT: What do you think is the key to Shaw's longevity?
SL: Well, it's interesting because these two guys I just talked with just said, "The place looks great!" One guy is a designer, and he said, "This restaurant was built 30 years ago. It'll still look great 30 years from now because it's sort of a timeless design." It's this 1940s, pre-war look, and I think we've done a good job keeping it upand we'll continue to do that. Plus, the food's been really good; my chef partner has been here since the restaurant's been open and he oversees the foodand he's done a terrific job. I think it's one of the best seafood restaurants in the country.
WCT: I want to talk about sustainability, which seems to be a buzzword in restaurants nowadays. Could you define it and talk about how Shaw's practices it?
SL: I can tell you what it means to me. Sustainability, to me, means using a product or resource that is renewable and that will be there for future generations. As it relates to fish, we want to use products that are well-managed so the stocks will be there in the future.
We are partners with the Shedd Aquarium, which partners with other aquariums, such as the Monterey Bay [ in California ] . It has a program called "Seafood Watch" and the Shedd's is called "Right Bite." It's a wallet [ -sized ] card with green ( what's good to eat ) , yellow ( caution ) and red ( avoid ) . It lists different species, and the science is done at Monterey Bay. There's some controversy … but it's a very good guide if you want to eat sustainable fish. We do have some items from the "avoid" list on the menu, but I'm not trying to force people to eat those. Everyone should have an option.
WCT: Does it say [ "Right Bite" ] on the menu?
SL: Yes; on the main menu, we refer to our sustainable seafood menu. The Shedd helped us do that sustainable menu.
The other thing is that there was a program started by the World Wildlife Foundation called the Marine Stewardship Council [ MSC ] that has since spun off on its own. Now, the World Wildlife Foundation is doing a similar organization for "aqua-cultured," or farm-raised, fish. What the Marine Stewardship Council does is certify fisheries that are sustainable, so they have to be assessed by a third party.
We are one of a few restaurants that are certified to serve MSC fish. Two species we serve that are certified are Alaskan salmon and Alaskan halibut. Right now, the halibut season is done until March, but we do serve the salmon.
There are other organizations that certify but I think MSC is the most well-known. If you go to Whole Foods, you'll see that its seafood is MSC-certified. I think MSC is a well-respected label. When people ask for the sustainable menu, we bring them that as well as the Right Bite Card.
WCT: And the seafood is flown in every day?
SL: Pretty much, except on Sundaybut sometimes we get the seafood even then.
WCT: I remember reading in Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential that one should never order seafood on a Monday because diners can get the seafood that's held over from the weekend.
SL: Yeah. On Monday, we get a lot of stuff coming in.
WCT: You said that you and your partner have been together 38 years. What's your secret?
SL: I'll tell you a little story and maybe that'll work. When I wake up in the morning, I always know what I want for dinner that night. My partner is a really good cook, and he never knows what he wants; he always makes whatever I ask him to. So I write the menus and he cooks; he's very happy because he doesn't have to decide and I'm happy because I get what I want. It's a partnership, and we treat each other with respect and love.
Oct. 12 is our anniversary, so that's when we had our civil union this year. It was a very simple ceremony at Daley Plaza. I'm glad we have this opportunity in the Land of Lincoln.
WCT: I hope I don't get you in trouble with this last question but, besides Shaw's, what restaurants do you like to frequent?
SL: Besides Shaw's. I do like the Lettuce Entertain You restaurants. I live in Lakeview, so I do like Yoshi's [ Café ] ; to me, it's the example of what a neighborhood restaurant should be. The guests know each other and the waiters know the guests; it's a very fine neighborhood restaurant.
Like I said, I like the Lettuce Entertain You restaurants a lot; my favorite there is probably [ French bistro ] Mon Ami Gabi at the Belden-Stratford Hotel. Also, Richard Melman's sons have opened a couple places that are great as well, and they're great for nightlife as wellThe Paris Club and Hub 51although I'm usually in bed by then.
More information about Shaw's Crab House is at www.shawscrabhouse.com .
The Dec. 7 issue of Savor will have reviews of Shaw's Crab House as well as Francesca's on Bryn Mawr and Wildberry Pancakes and Café.