I have to admit: I was initially skeptical about Michael Jordan's Steak House, despite the owner's past and present success in the restaurant field.
However, one thing became clear when I entered the restaurant, located in the InterContinental Chicago on Michigan Avenue: The people here want to impress patrons as much as possible.
That aim became clear upon walking up the staircase and then crossing a magnificent walkway to enter the dining area. Staffers (such as the eternally smiling Jennifer) were not only extremely knowledgeable but seemed genuinely nice.
Executive Chef James O'Donnell—who's worked at the other Michael Jordan's Steak Houses in New York and Connecticut—certainly knows what he's doing. He told me that what distinguishes this steakhouse from others in Chicago is that he leans toward locally sourced items, including the grass-fed beef and side dishes such as asparagus. O'Donnell also favors a simple approach to his dishes, adding half-jokingly that the goal is "to not screw it up."
Not only does O'Donnell not screw it up—his dishes are darn near magical. I usually avoid bread at restaurants, trying to avoid some dreaded carbs. However, the garlic bread with Roth Kase blue-cheese fondue is the very essence of heaven on earth. (Another appetizer that seems very tempting is the double-smoked bacon with a maple syrup/black pepper glaze.)
Among the entrees I tried was the so-called colossal crab cake (with asparagus-arugula salad and Meyer lemon aioli), which was thankfully packed with meat. MJ's prime Delmonico steak, the signature piece of meat, is unlike any steak I've tasted in the city—and I mean that in a good way. The ribeye is dry-aged for 28 days and it's topped with a ginger balsamic jus, resulting in a dish with striking flavor.
And as if all that isn't enough, the restaurant excels with its desserts as well. One of the signature items is the 23-layer chocolate cake (to pay homage to Jordan wearing "23" when he played); it's delicious, but most people won't be able to finish it at the restaurant. Other offerings include gelato and sorbet (courtesy of Black Dog Gelato); carrot cake and mascarpone terrine; and lemon-poppyseed goat cheesecake.
What can I say? Michael Jordan's Steak House has scored a slam dunk.
See www.mjshchicago.com .
Volare (201 E. Grand Ave.; www.volarerestaurant.com ) has been a fixture in Streeterville, but recently reopened after expanding its space. Many things are new, including floors, tables and chairs. (However, some things remain the same—including the warmth that greets you when you walk in the door.)
The menu has also changed, form Italian-American fare to items that more accurately reflect authentic Italian cuisine—and, for the most part, it succeeds. Our server (who recently seemed concerned about our digestion for some reason) made innumerable suggestions.
Things got off to a slow start with the antipasti. My dining companion and I tried a combination of mortadella, Gorgonzola dolce and olive oil tomatoes; it was solid but not amazing. Moreover, the grigliata mista (grilled sea scallops, calamari, octopus and shrimp in a balsamic vinaigrette) was too charred and needed lemon to counter the taste.
However, the black-ink spaghetti should never be taken off the menu. The same goes for the salmone al forno (salmon marinated in olive oil and lemon). Desserts were also a high point, thanks to the chocolate marjolaine (chocolate meringue layers with Swiss chocolate mousse).
The proof is in the pudding—or, in this case, the spaghetti. There's a reason Volare has bustling crowds, even during the week.
