For a truly unique Asian dining experience right here in Chicago, head to River North. Newcomer and instant hot spot Union Sushi + Barbeque Bar fuses Japanese and American cuisine in a truly clever way I haven't seen before.
The "tater tots," for example, are made with purple potatoes, daikon, ginger, bonito, green onion and seasoned dashia distinctly Japanese interpretation of an American classic. The "wings" are actually massive cuts of duck slathered in sweet chili and spicy butter sauce and served with yuzu blue cheese dressing. Trustyou will not be craving the tired old 25 cent wing any time soon after you indulge in these babies. Also, don't ask me how they do it, but there's even a Japanese version of fettuccine alfredo. All I know is that it's made with fresh uni, salmon roe and micro greens, and it is fantastic.
Owner Mike Schatzman says he got the idea for his restaurant after years of traveling the world alone on business trips. He says that sushi restaurants are one of the best places for solo diners because you can belly up to the sushi bar and observe chef in action. Schatzman clearly was paying attention because he's nailed it with Union Sushi. The food is primarily Japanese, but influences from all over the globe are apparent. The atmosphere, in stark contrast, is nothing if not American: loud rock music and walls covered with in-your-face graffiti art. The crowd is a combination of scenesters, young couples, and urban toddlers watching cartoons on iPads while they eat sushi.
While I would encourage you to veer off of the beaten path and order some of Union Sushi's more unique dishes, sushi traditionalists needn't worry. All of the rolls you know and love ( spicy tuna, dragon, rainbow and shrimp tempura ) are on the menu, and they are joined by a handful of surprising and delightful specialty rolls. My favorite was the "Clifton #4," which combines fried calamari, masago, green onion, grilled asparagus, cilantro and garlic mayo in marble nori. This is the first sushi roll I've been tempted to double up on since Japonais' legendary "Tuna, Tuna, Salmon."
Carnivores will be lured in by Union Sushi's classic robata grill, where lamb, beef, chicken and seafood are cooked over a 600-degree open flame. I tried the shrimp and the chicken thigh, and while both were perfectly delicious, I was frankly more impressed by the spectacle of the chefs cooking over a roaring fire than I was by the fruits of their labor. However, grilled meats are not something likely to knock my socks off, so definitely try them for yourself. For $3 to $5 a pop, they are an affordable addition to your meal.
Sake overs will be thrilled to behold Union Sushi's massive sake list ( and neophytes will be comforted by the knowledgeable servers who are on hand to help you select the right sake for your meal ) . If sake's not your thing, try one of the hand-crafted cocktails. I knocked back a few of "The 16th Century" cocktails, which are made with Hakutake Shochu, lemon, ginger liqueur and sparkling wineand I can confidently say I was happier when I left than I was when I came in.
I'm not typically dazzled by the dessert offerings at sushi places, but let me assure you Union is a notable exception. The "Killer Yuzu Pie" lives up to its name. It's similar to key lime pie, but made instead with lemons. The tart lemon filling is the perfect creamy consistency and sits atop an addictive coconut biscuit crust. It's topped with a heap of fresh whipped cream which, while delicious, is barely even necessary because this pie is just that good. The tofu chocolate mousse came highly recommended by my server, but it didn't do all that much for me. In fairness, that is probably because I was too busy fawning over the killer pie.
Union Sushi is located at 230 W. Erie; call 312-662-4888 or visit www.eatatunion.com .
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