Judging by the number of new seafood restaurants popping up around town, you might start to forget that Chicago is smack dab in the Midwest. One of the latest to join the crew is GT Fish & Oyster.
The bustling River North space ( which was formerly home to Tizi Melloul ) is Martha's Vineyard meets Manhattan. Crisp ivory-paneled walls are adorned with nautical light fixtures, and rustic, beachy wooden chairs are juxtaposed with sleek black tables.
Chef Giuseppe Tentori ( from whom the restaurant gets its name ) has created a truly lovely menu of hot and cold seafood-centered small plates. The tuna poke is a delicious way to start your meal—super fresh raw tuna with mango, paper-thin cucumber slices and black sesame. You could also dive right in and go for the oysters. You'll find at least five different varieties, from which you can create your own platter. Individual oysters are priced from $2.25 to $3.25, making them an affordable luxury.
GT Fish & Oyster has a really nice selection of clever and delicious cocktails. "The Waitlist" is a refreshing mixture of Grey Goose, St. Germain, lime, grapefruit and bitters. Two sips and you'll be transported to an Adirondack chair somewhere on the eastern seaboard. If you're looking for something a bit stiffer, try the "Old Money," a serious cocktail made with Black Maple Hill Bourbon, walnut liqueur and allspice. The impressive wine list is appropriately heavy on the whites, with selections from California, France, Italy, Germany and New Zealand. Bottles start at $34, and go all the way up to $275 ( with plenty of options in between ) .
Fish lovers will find many tantalizing choices among the hot plates. Fish tacos, crab cakes, fish and chips—seaside classics are made more interesting with gourmet upgrades like chipotle aioli and dill pickle remoulade. The lobster roll is absolutely amazing. Chunks of tender lobster are drenched in mayonnaise and served between thick slices of melt-in-your-mouth buttery grilled bread. The only thing wrong with this scrumptious sandwich is that it is much smaller than your typical lobster roll, and will definitely leave you wanting more.
Tentori even gets creative with the crab lags. Unlike most places that just steam them and leave you to do all of the cracking and digging for crab meat, GT Fish & Oyster presents crab legs in a bamboo steamer. Lemon and herbs on the bottom of the steamer infuse the shellfish with delicate flavor, and the crab legs are pre-cut into two-inch pieces, making them completely hassle-free. However, be prepared to pay for that luxury. On the night I visited, market price was $42 for a very, very small quantity of crab. Most menu items cost between $10 and $15 each, but the portions are tiny. So, either don't come hungry or plan to drop a decent wad of cash on the three to four items you'll need to fill up.
Any good seafood meal should end with key lime pie, in my opinion—and GT Fish & Oyster most certainly delivers. Their version is served upside down in a mason jar. Tart key lime curd is topped with gingersnap crumbles and the sweetest, lightest meringue I've ever tasted. I would have licked the jar if I weren't in public.
I predict that Chicagoans and GT Fish & Oyster will have a long and happy relationship. Next time I'm in the mood to destroy my diet and empty my wallet, I know exactly where I'll be going for an amazing lobster roll and irresistible key lime pie. At least it's cheaper than a flight to Maine.
GT Fish & Oyster is located at 531 N. Wells; call 312-929-3501 or visit gtfishandoyster.wordpress.com .
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GT Fish & Oyster photos for Windy City Times by Cynthia Holmes
