Don't you just love an unexpected surprise during the post-holiday doldrums of winter in Chicago? I do—especially if that surprise comes baked in golden brown empanadas or drizzled in dulce de leche.
Those are just two of the culinary delights you'll find at Caminito Argentinian Grill, a new unassuming restaurant in Lincoln Park. Nestled in a basement on Halsted, you definitely won't find Caminito unless you're looking for it. So here's a tip: Look for it. You won't be disappointed.
The place isn't much to look at (unless you count chef and owner Mario Lobos and his adorable and attentive staff). The simple space could use some warming up in the way of artwork and maybe some candles, but you'll forget all about that three bites into the freshly baked bread that will arrive to your table warm and with a fabulous pesto-like dipping sauce.
Caminito is BYOB for the foreseeable future, so grab a bottle of a robust red to accompany the South American meal you're about to enjoy. Caminito is a street in Buenos Aries' La Boca neighborhood, an area populated by immigrants from Italy, Spain, Greece, Yugoslavia and Turkey. Lobos grew up in Buenos Aries, where his father owned a restaurant, and he's brought the global flavors of La Boca to Chicago.
Now about those empanadas—they are a scrumptious fusion of Latin American and European cuisine. You can choose from among beef; ham and cheese; or tomato and mozzarella filling—or you can mix and match the three. I highly recommend the tomato and mozzarella, which is like a delicious melty Italian panini baked into a perfect buttery empanada shell.
You'll find plenty of interesting diversions on the way to your main course at Caminito. Order one of the scrumptious homemade Argentinian pizzas for your table to share as an appetizer. The crust is at once crisp and doughy, and topped with all kinds of delectable meats and veggies. The fugazetta rellena is out of this world. The bare crust is lined with a thin slice of ham and smothered in onions and mozzarella with a bit of fresh tomato on top. If this pizza is representative of what you can get in Buenos Aires, then the Argentinian capital could very well give Chicago a run for its money as the best city for pizza.
Or, if you want a (slightly) more healthful starter, try one of Caminito's salads. Have no fear, even the salads at this place are chock full of grilled meats and savory cheeses. I particularly enjoyed the spinach salad tossed with balsamic vinaigrette and crunchy walnuts, topped with loads of pancetta and gorgonzola.
If you do it right, you'll probably be stuffed before you even decide on an entrée—but forge ahead. Share a dish or two with your dining companions if you want to save room for dessert. Gnocchi plays a starring role on Caminito's menu. Lobos makes the gnocchi from scratch right in his own kitchen, and you can tell from the first bite that it's made with love. These delectable little potato dumplings are plump, pillowy and the perfect vehicle to get Lobos' tangy homemade tomato sauces into your mouth.
Of course, no Argentinian feast would be complete without a big old steak—and Caminito delivers. I tried the vacio con papas al horno, a flap steak served with rosemary potatoes. The steak is bursting with char-grilled Argentinian flavor, but was just slightly overcooked for my own tastes. So, if you like your meat rare, make sure you specify when your order.
Dessert at Caminito is a diet-destroying dulce de leche festival—and it's worth every last calorie. There's a flan topped with dulce de leche and fresh whipped cream and an impossibly thick caramel bread pudding. My favorite sweet ending was the simplest offering—creamy vanilla ice cream drizzled with dulce de leche and studded with slivered almonds.
What Caminito lacks in glam décor, it more than makes up for in genuinely warm service and superbly prepared food. On Saturday nights, you can get an even more authentic Argentinian experience when Caminito hosts live music. In addition, Lobos plans to add tango-dancing classes. That way, you can have your empanadas and eat them, too (without breaking your New Year's resolution to lose weight).
As word gets out about Caminito's mouth-watering food and reasonable prices, I predict the understated Lincoln Park restaurant will become more and more crowded. So, I'd check it out now while you can still get a table without a wait.
Caminito Argentinian Grill is located at 1629 N. Halsted; call 312-846-6911 or visit www.caminitoargentiniangrill.com .
Want to know what I'm eating and what I think about it between my columns? Follow me on Twitter: @SugarAndSpiceMS.
