Bistronomic opened to much fanfare earlier this monthand if you're lucky enough to get a table at this new Gold Coast hot spot, you're in for a treat.
Chef Martial Noguier, a Café des Architectes veteran, is serving up classic French bistro fare with a few delightfully modern twists. The Wabash Ave. space, which formerly housed Eve, is dark, moody, and Parisian (complete with stunning French women in stilettos and pencil skirts!), but with some contemporary touches like oversized light fixtures and sleek wooden tables conspicuously unencumbered by white linen. For the time being, the elegant and bustling dining room is filled with young foodies, old money, and whoever else could finagle their way into a reservation.
Start with one (or several) of the small plates like chicken liver mousse, fish soup or beet salad, which is served with white truffle oil and Capriole goat cheese. The tuna tartare is served in a mason jar, and makes an excellent companion to a glass of champagnemais oui! The cauliflower veloute (basically a fancy French way of saying "soup") sounds delicious, but doesn't quite deliver. I found it a tad too watery and lacking in flavor.
I highly recommend starting with a bit of cheese and charcuterie. You can choose one of their three-cheese flights for $12, or customize your own cheese plate with a few selections from the impressive list. Whatever you do, don't miss the Camembert, which is stinky in the right way and impossibly creamy with a buttery finish.
In addition to the savory tartine of the day that you'd expect to find at a French bistro, Bistronomic playfully offers a "grilled cheese of the day." Obviously, you don't find any plastic American cheese or Wonder bread here. Expect delicacies like aged blue cheese and crisp apple slices grilled to perfection on French bread.
Wine lovers will not be disappointed at Bistronomic. You'll find selections from every region of France, and at every price range. You can snag a few decent bottles for less than $30. There aren't many wines sold by the glass, but the ones they do offer do the trick. The Chateau Graville-Lacoste Graves Blanc Bordeaux is light, drinkable and an excellent choice to wash down many of the lighter dishes. When you're ready to dig into some expertly-prepared red meat, order a glass of the Domaine Jacque Girardin Bourgogne Rouge Burgundy, which is strong enough to stand up to the braised lamb and beef au poivre, but smooth enough to drink all night.
While the food, the wine, the ambiance, and even the beautiful hostesses are authentically French, Bistronomic does incorporate one bit of American culturefriendly service. You won't find any stuffy French waiters who are inexplicably annoyed by your presence here. The servers are knowledgeable, friendly and unobtrusive.
If you're hungry, don't be shy about filling up on cheese and starters because the entrée portions are on the small side (there's a reason those French women fit into those snug pencil skirts). Entrée choices include Amish chicken breast with mushroom ragout and lemon confit; whitefish with French lentils and Dijon vinaigrette; and flat iron steak with shallot puree and duck-fat fingerling potatoesthe kind of food that is comforting with sacrificing elegance. The glazed shortrib is positively scrumptious. It's a juicy and flavorful cut of meat served atop a confit of red cabbage and bacon lardons and surrounded by a delicate citrus sauce. I assure you that you won't be bringing any leftovers home for the dog.
Bistronomic is the kind of place where you're happy to stay and linger. So go ahead and order dessert. Of course you'll find French staples like crème caramel and crème brulee, but if you're in the mood for something slightly different, try the chocolate hazelnut barstwo perfect slices of crispy praline topped with bittersweet chocolate mousse and dusted in cocoa. They are the haute cuisine equivalent of a Kit Kat bar, and well worth the difference in price that you will pay to enjoy them!
Bistronomic is located at 840 N. Wabash; call 312-944-8400 or visit www.bistronomic.net .
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