Paul Cannella, owner of the sultry Boystown lounge Scarlet, has been serving us drinks for a few years. Cannella recently branched out into the world of food when he opened his restaurant, Taverna 750, earlier this year.
Taverna is nestled on a Boystown side street in the space that previously housed Cornelia's. The kitschy old-school Italian ambiance of Cornelia's has been replaced with a sleek, modern look. Exposed brick walls and an elegant tin ceiling set the stage, and massive black-and-white images of romantic Italian streetscapes drive home the theme. The vibe is similar to Scarlet—sexy lounge décor, potent cocktails, good-looking gay clientele—but Taverna has snacks.
There is a big emphasis on cocktails at Taverna ( no complaints! ) . In fact, the drink menu is about as large the food menu. The hand-crafted cocktails are clearly mixed with care. In addition to the classic Italian limoncello, Taverna also uses housemade orange- and grapefruit-cello. The "Pera" is a nice way to start an evening. It's made with Absolut Pear vodka, grapefruit-cello and fresh lime juice. My fellow bubble enthusiasts won't be able to resist the Prosecco spritzes. I loved the Elderflower, which is made with a nice, dry Prosecco, St. Germain, lemon and soda water. It's simple, light and refreshing. I plan on throwing back a few spritzes on Taverna's patio next summer. Every cocktail I sampled tasted delicious and accomplished its intended goal. However, I was a tad disappointed by the presentation. My lovely Elderflower spritz was served unceremoniously in a tall glass with ice. An edible flower or a fruit garnish would have gone a long way in dressing it up.
The menu consists of hot and cold Italian small plates meant for sharing. Start with one of the $6 "martini plates." I highly recommend the mozzarella alla filo. Mozzarella is wrapped in a crisp, delicate layer of filo dough, expertly fried and drizzled with white truffle honey. Excellent execution of the addictive salty/sweet combo we all love so much.
I also tried the eggplant caprese, which is far too decadent to be considered a salad, but I'll play along. Tender eggplant is fried golden brown, tucked between thick slabs of fresh mozzarella and splattered with a tangy, creamy tomato sauce. The mozzarella would have been better if it was brought to room temperature before it was served, but that did not stop me from eating the entire dish.
The more substantial offerings include a handful of pizzas and pastas. Serving a memorable pizza in a pizza town like Chicago is no simple feat. However, I'm pleased to report that Taverna accomplishes it. The crust is thin, crisp and flavorful, and the topping combinations are delightfully inventive. I tried the "Tutto Buono," which is topped with red sauce, salami, mozzarella, poppy seed, wine-poached figs and brie. That's right—cheese on top of melted cheese. Putting brie on top of mozzarella might seem like gilding the lily, but as it turns out, it's actually brilliant. I want to go back to sample all of Taverna's pizzas, especially the one that combines mozzarella, Asiago, artichokes, rosemary oil and pesto sauce.
Taverna's pasta dishes include a unique take on lasagna. This decadent version is made with sage pasta, sun-dried tomato, bacon, asparagus and a whole lot of baked mozzarella cheese. The best part of this delicacy is its price tag—just $9. That's not bad for something so delicious and filling.
I love when elevated cuisine is sold in small portions at reasonable prices, and everything on Taverna's menu falls into that enviable category. All of the items are priced between $3 and $9, and two to three per person is more than enough to make a meal.
When the time arrives for dessert at Taverna, you will get a not-so-subtle cue as to how you should proceed. There is precisely one dessert made of food on the menu ( mousse of the day ) , but there are at least eight sweets made from alcohol. I took the hint and ordered the tiramisu martini ( when in Rome! ) . If properly combined, Frangelico, Amaretto liqueur and Taverna's homemade chocolate liqueur taste remarkably like tiramisu. You can't even taste the vodka, but I can tell you with utter certainty that it is in there. I will return to try Taverna's Italian wedding cake and gelato dessert martinis.
I think Taverna 750 is an ideal place to begin a night out in Boystown. You can start your evening off right with a stiff cocktail and get some food in your stomach, but not so much that you won't look good on the dance floor a couple of hours later. And, you can also end your night at Taverna. The bar is open until 2 a.m. every night, and they serve slices of pizza for $4 beginning at 11 p.m.—definitely a happy ending.
Taverna 750 is located at 750 W. Cornelia St.; call 773-904-7466 or visit www.taverna750.com .
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