I am really rooting for Tribute, 800 S. Michigan Ave., to succeed.
In one sense, the odds might be against it because of its location. Housed in the Essex Inn, the restaurant is between what one might call the "main" part of the Loop and the bustling South Loop.
However, Tribute ( which even has trendy Mad Men/Pan Am-type decor that evokes the '60s, and offers views of Grant Park ) certainly deserves a chance.
Manager Adriana Atilano ( who is vivacious in the best sense of the word ) told Savor that the fare changes seasonally, and that the restaurant makes sure to procure its ingredients from local businesses.
Peter Coenen—chef de cuisine under Executive Chef Jared Case—certainly has the chops to make top-notch American contemporary dishes. His journey covers everywhere from WWOOF ( World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms ) in Europe to working with molecular gastronomy in South Carolina to Chicago, where he cooked at the Lincoln Park spot Boka ( which also serves contemporary American cuisine ) .
Well, Coenen's experience has resulted in some mighty fine dishes at Tribute—and when they win me over despite my initial hesitation about ingredients, that's something. For example, although I'm personally not a huge fan of chicory, the beet salad had just enough combination of flavors to make it a hit. However, my dining partner and I loved another appetizer—the lobster mac 'n cheese—the most; it was very tasty, and didn't even need the bread crumbs sprinkled on top.
As for entrees, the highlights for us included the Yankee pot roast, accompanied with seasonal vegetables and whipped potatoes, as well as the "Duck2," which features a breast and leg with black wild rice, shallots, Brussels sprouts and a duck reduction. The grilled BBQ salmon ( which initially sounded odd to me ) and filet sandwich ( complete with toasted brioche, shallots, parsnips and cheddar-ale sauce ) also deserve high marks.
Now if all that doesn't tempt you, pastry chef Mitsu Nozaki has excelled with desserts. The Bananas Foster fritters with rum banana caramel sauce is pretty wonderful, but the ice cream sandwich duo ( vanilla gelato with brownies and blondies ) and her Reese's tart were revelations.
Another employee, Andrea, also helped things by pairing dishes with various wines and mixed drinks. They worked for the most part—although neither my dining partner nor I took to the J. Falcon, a drink that blends rye, lemon, lime, egg white and syrah. Maybe we're just not rye people.
Overall, though, Tribute is a place to eat fantastic food and have a great view without breaking your budget. Hopefully, many more people will stop by and enjoy. ( By the way, the restaurant also offers breakfast and brunch. )
See www.tribute-chicago.com .
